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outside wood burners

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Do any of you use a forced air outside wood burner? I have looked at them at shows ect. I recently saw an ad for Artic Fox brand, didn't like the price though $3500, they tell you that it will burn big unsplit pieces of wood completely. Basically load it up ionce a day and walla, wood heat. The only maintenance involved is dealing with the ashes.
 
Folks near here had one, until the thing leaked flames up the hot air duct. No longer from around here, neither is their house.
 
Same thing here years ago- plywood duct into the house, wood got super dried out, some ignition.....burned the house down. Water boiler doesn"t have that trouble.
 
Have it professionally installed.
They do make a lot of smoke, I have a neighbor that owns one for his barn.
You may want to also check out the outdoorfurnace.com
 
they are called "house burners" around here, use a wood boiler much safer, they both smoke....alot.....the nicer thing about the boiler is you can get it further away from your house so you only annoy your neighbors.
 
I have an outside woodburner that is the boiler type. I burn seasoned wood and it smoke some on start up but once it gets going you don't even know it is running other than hearing the blower running. The smoke only lasts a couple of minutes and it does not bother my neighbors as the closest one live appox a mile away. By the time everything was instaled it cost somewhere around 9000.00 which includes heat to my work shop
 
Why would they use plywood for a duct? I was thinking an insulated steel pipe maybe 12ga. plumbed into the furnace ducts.
 
I've used a bryan outside hot air furnace for my shop now for 6 years. Grates need replacing ever 3 years, puts out a lot of heat, nice big fire box, takes 30 inch length wood. But has a puny little door to load it, you have to use 2 foot length wood, shove it all the way back, then stack short pieces in front if you want to completly fill the fire box.
 
Dunno- Grove City,MN. 90s. Burned the house down when it dried out., I'd stay with water system- put one in '88.
 
My dad has a Hardy wood furnace and loves it. He heats a huge old farm house. The gas bill would break the bank. It saves him a pile of money.
 
Got the water boiler . Works great. I wouldn't want an air connection. The water you just either put in baseboard water heat or a heat exchanger in the duct above your current furnace and hook up the lines. Base board heat uses less wood.
 
Doug, I ought to sell you mine. Got an Aqua Therm that I used for the old house. Hot water into the heat exchanger in the forced air furnace. Worked super great! No heating bill, only chain saw gas. Stoked once a day except when -20 below.
 
Go with a hydronic system it's safer and if setup right you might be able to hook in a solar collector for milder days or in the summer maybe use the system to help cool the house if you have a well, swimming pool, pond or really big stock tank. And with the hydronic in place if you end up building a new shop you'll be able to zone your hot water system to heat the shop (in floor or unit heaters).
 
OK- that's different if you go with steel. Plywood duct or steel going into house ROOM, sooner or later you're going into the wood of the house.
 
you don't use yours any more? There's plenty of broken over ash trees around here from that storm in 2011,plus I have some trees that need to come down, buying $3.80 fuel oil bites and who knows how long cheap lp lasts, thought about getting a woos stove in the house but it makes a mess and the insurance is pretty well voided
 
Anybody that promotes filling an over size fire box full of wood then checking the airflow back. So the firebox needs filling once a day. They need a good sound thrashing.
The once a day checked back overfill. Wastes fire wood by running a cold smouldering oxygen deprived fire that drives in burned combustion gasses up the stack as creosote and stinking clouds of smoke. It"s a coke oven.
 
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