ford jublle carburator

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

I began loosing power under load and I cannot figure it out. I have flushed the tank, cleaned the carburator and gas line, and switched to higher octane gas. None of that has made it better. The engine runs fne at idle and low gear (except under load, front loader & PTO)Could you help me?

old · Oct 26, 2012

Does choking it hurt or help??? If it helps then you may want to open up the main jet a little bit at a time till you either have black smoke which means to rich or if you can turn it out to the point you can remove it and the engine still runs then carb needs to be cleaner better. If choke hurts then check your air cleaner. When was the last time you changed he oil in it and dumped the water and dirt. How is your spark?? If need to be a blue white and jump a 1/4 inch gap or more

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

Pulling the choke shuts her down. Making carb adjustments don't make it different. When I took the carb apart and cleaned it, I tried to be thorough. It appeared to be clean. How would I know if it was clean enough before I put it back together? I'm not sure about the spark.

rustyfarmall · Oct 26, 2012

(quoted from post at 09:31:45 10/26/12) I began loosing power under load and I cannot figure it out. I have flushed the tank, cleaned the carburator and gas line, and switched to higher octane gas. None of that has made it better. The engine runs fne at idle and low gear (except under load, front loader & PTO)Could you help me?

Fuel issues and ignition issues quite often will mimic one another. How long has it been since you did a complete ignition tune-up? Plugs, Points, Condensor, rotor, etc.?

BCnT · Oct 26, 2012

if youre positive fuel system is ok,its either a weak coil or condenser or points need to be set...a simple jumper wire between negative battery post and negative side of coil [IF you still have original 6 volt system] will rule out weak ignition switch and resistor block...i own a '62 2000...been around it since it was new...chased down quite a few running gremlins over the past 50 years.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

I am curious as to your method for flushing the tank? How did you do it? What did you use?

JMOR · Oct 26, 2012

(quoted from post at 12:31:45 10/26/12) I began loosing power under load and I cannot figure it out. I have flushed the tank, cleaned the carburator and gas line, and switched to higher octane gas. None of that has made it better. The engine runs fne at idle and low gear (except under load, front loader & PTO)Could you help me?

began loosing power ........suddenly or over a long (?) period of time?

rrlund · Oct 26, 2012

Have you looked down in the stem of the sedement bowl? I had a combine that gave me fits that way one time. I unscrewed the whole thing out of the tank,looked down inside of it,and there was a kernel of corn down deep in there. The gas was getting past it,just not enough.

massey 333 · Oct 26, 2012

To take off rrlunds remarks,try opening your fuel shutoff wide open.(so you are using the reserve setting)Mine the last few years has started acting up that way(cold weather mostly),so something is haywire in the valve.Try it and post back if that helps or not.Those carbs always were a headache from when new.1953-1954

old · Oct 26, 2012

Since coking it hurts disconnect the air cleaner hose from the carb and see if that helps. If it helps then the air cleaner need to be cleaned real good. If that does not help try closing the main jet adjustment all the way close with it running. If doing that does not shut it down your main jet area of the carb is where the problem is

Geo-TH,In · Oct 26, 2012

Dear Mr. wheel bearing,
I have a Jubilee and experienced a similar problem. If you have ruled out all electrical/ ignition problems it's a good chance you have a fuel problem, like I had.

My tank was the orginal. The inside of the tank wasn't rusty. Instead, the coating, a gray primer color, was flaking off and choking up my carb. Remove the bolt on the bottom of the carb and see what comes out. I removed the two jets from carb and blew them out too. After flushing carb, it would work fine for a while. Then after a few hours of run time, full of gray primer like material in carb and sediment bowl.

Keep in mind, there are three screens that filter the fuel. One inside the tank connected to the sediment bowl, another above the sediment bowl and the hidden screen can only be found if you remove the steel gas line at the carb and remove the brass 90. Third screen is connected to the brass 90.

I decided to install an in line gas filter to solve the problem. BIG, BIG MISTAKE.

When the fuel temp reaches about 135 degrees, the in line filter will vapor lock.

After flushing the tank many times, I solved the problem by invested in a new tank from YT for a little over $200. The cost to coat the tank was about half that. Glad I bought a new tank.

Post back and let us know what you find.
George

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

when I close the main adjustment down all the way, it does not make a difference and runs the same. But I was certain I cleaned it entirely. Could I have not cleaned it right?

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

Yes, I cleaned air filter best I could and disconnected hose, no difference though.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

I changed ponts and condensor and rotor about one month ago. It fires up pretty good, idles smooth also.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

I used gasoline and just let gravity work. maybe about one gallon worth. I thought if sediment or something was at the bottom, then it would flow out.

old · Oct 26, 2012

Sounds like you did in fact miss something in the carb. Did you remove the brass tube that sits in the venture area and make sure the small holes in the side where open?? Also did you spray carb cleaner in each and ever hole and make sure you had it coming out where it should?? Did you soak it in a good carb cleaner at least over night if not longer??? I do carbs all the time so yep pretty much know what to look for in them

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

Suddenly lost power. I noticed it when I went to fire it up after sitting outside this year for 2 months, mainly in the heat wave we had.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

Do you mean in the valve stem? I always did have issues with the gas valve so I just baught a new one.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

I did that and no different.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

Actually that brass tube is the only part
(I think)I did not clear I did however spray to make the other openings within the carb clear. I'll soak carb and clean,inspect tonight. anything else to do while I have the carb apart?

old · Oct 26, 2012

Be sure to remove that tube. In the sides of that tube if you look real close you will see a number of hole. On some the holes go out the other side on some they do not but make sure each is clear. I use a torch tip cleaner tool to make sure any and all holes and passage ways are open. I do not know what kit you used but I use the Walker Brand kits O'Reilly's auto parts sell and they have a good picture of all the parts as in a blown up picture

rrlund · Oct 26, 2012

The stem of the whole sedement bowl assembly. The part that screws right in to the bottom of the tank.

Geo-TH,In · Oct 26, 2012

If my failing memory is correct, turning the main jet down, fully in, produces a rich fuel mix. The engine will like it.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2012

I was having a similar problem, a lot of backfiring and stumbling. After all the usual (check flow from the bottom of carb, clean screens etc..) I disconnected the line at the carb and watch it flow. I would have a burp every so often. Replaced the line, no help. My sediment bowl assmbly has an additional boss with a plug in it. So I turned it and put the line from the tank into the boss where the plug was and the plug into the other spot. Cleared up the problem. And I had previously torn the assembly apart and could not find anything wrong.

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