simple but effective drainage??

Hey folks,
Have a paddock area of about 1000 sq ft with concrete grass pavers on top of a couple inches of gravel. Place slopes slightly to the ditch 15 ft or so away. Has one spot about 6x6 or so feet that gets wet and a little soupy at just the hint of any rain and stays that way for a few days after it stops. Tree huggers won't allow any major work in the area. Looking at the picture, I was thinking to just dig a trench ad the edge the length of the wet area and 2ft deep with a leg going to the road ditch with gravel, leach field pipe, and gravel on top then the sod. Ditch would be about 6ft from the wet area. Think it would take care of the problem without pulling out the pavers? Not so much being lazy, just have to do the digging and get it covered back up quick before anyone figures out what's happening.

I do ALOT of that stuff at work, sometimes it works -
sometimes it doesn't. It's easy and worth a try.

Oh. You you mentioned drainage, I thought you were going to lance a boil or something. Nevermind.

Dave,I was watching a old Fergurson video and there was a wet spot in a field,and it held standing water.The guy on the video used a sub soiller behind his 8n and started at the creek and made a path toward the middle of the wet spot,he claimed the spot dried up in a couple days

jimmy

Bard-Parker 15 blade, small curved hemostat, resorbable suture and sterile gauze strip..all you need for drainage.

If there is gravel under the pavers it'll proably work if its just dirt probably not.

Ferguson curved tine subsoiler, should fix it, if you can find one in Germany!
Sam

If the tree huggers are on your case I would be reticent to discharge any of that in a road ditch, more ammunition. The mere fact it occurs naturally does not enter the equation.

I would just make a French drain. All that is is just a trench dug to where you want the water to go and then back fill it with 1 to 1 1/2 inch clean stone. The advantage it that there is not clear discharge so the tree huggers will not be able to make hay about the drainage devise. Plus it will allow the water to drain but will kind of filter any manure from running straight into the ditch.

I use these type around my barn yard in several places that I am concerned about the traffic over a tile line. Simple but cheap.

In your case just take a tile spade and dig down 12-18 inches and fill it with stone. When your are done no one will even be able to see anything much different. There sure will not be a discharge line there for them to sample.

I have been told that one way to drain a wet spot was to attach a large round steel ball or other streamlined object near the bottom of the subsoiler, with a hinged rod or chain that would flex, and dig a furrow with that. The ball would open a hole underground and let the water drain. The system was called a mole, Google might come up with something.

KEH

'Here' leach field pipe has kinda big holes, real sdrainage pipe would be better, but what you suggest should do a lot.

If you can get your hands on some sort of sub-soiler like the one pictured, you put a bolt & hook on it down low, and you can pull 2 or maybe 3 inch pipe into the ground, less trenching, less visible. Might have to run over a time or 2 in dry runs, to loosen up the ground before the final pipe run.

I've had 10-11 miles of tile drainage put in my farm over the past 4 years, so a little familiar with it.

2 feet should help a lot, if you can get 3 feet it will help a lot more. 3-4 foot deep tile will help pull out water from 40-60 feet each side of it; shallower won't go as far.

And you want to try to get the water drained away from before it's wet on the surface. It's hard to describe in a few words here, but your problem starts farther away, before the water shows up on the surface at the low spot. About 1/2 way up the slope is where the water problem is, it just shows up at your low spot. Works better if your drainage can affect that spot where the problem is, rather than just trying to get the little bit of the problem drained.

It's hard to make that make sense, I'd need to talk with my hands to get the idea across. Depending on the lay of the land, might get more results running the tile on the top side of your small paddock, would cut the water off from ever flowing down to that bottom side. If you put the tile at the bottom, it's still gonna always flow through your paddock down to where the tile is, so while the tile lets the water flow away - it's still always gonna flow through the paddock first...

--->Paul

Guess I used the wrong term... Think the SD pipe is what I meant (4+/- inch flex pipe that is perforated?)
Don't have room for tractor work..... Whole place is maybe 50 ft wide. I'll do the french drain and just move a couple pavers and drain under them also.

Thanks...

Around here a tile below 20-24" may as well be encapsulated with concrete.
The brown clay in the top 18" will trickle some water through it. The blue clay below is impervious to water travel.