Boomless Sprayer

I have 40 acres of pasture with a severe weed problem starting.Iwould like to get a spraye and an considering a boomless about 2o feet wide. Would that be practical? Are they accurate enough?

I have a 16 gallon sprayer from Northern, with one 16 ft tip. Can get about 2 acres from one tank. Have in the bed of a electric golf cart. Works pretty good, seems to kill evener than It looks like it is doing. Works good for lanes and around buildings and parking lots. I also use it for skips on the ends of fields where I didn"t get big sprayer lined up quick enough, or turned on right. Neighbor has a 50 gallon tank might be bigger, and two of the 16 ft tips in the back of a diesel Gator. Has a 15 ft boom, but sprays 30 ft. Came from Northern also. His is better for a field.

I only use a cluster nozzle. Haven't used a boom for 20 years. Mine sprays about 30 feet. Mount it behind your spray tank. No bouncing, don't have to worry about fences, trees, etc. Also sprays over top of fences and ditches. Have to be mindful of drift on a windy day. Meaning it could drift onto your neighbor's property. They won't mind if they have pasture also

I have a 30 gallon with 30 foot boomless sprayer on it (on small in the middle of about a 3 foot boom and then two on either end that are supposed to spary 15 ft). I used it this fall on 20 acres of old hay ground that was going into winter wheat. It seemed to spray even enough to get a decent kill on the field. Watch the spray pattern, any crud or mud on them and they don't spray evenly or as far as they claim. Was applying 2 quarts of glyphosate to the acre with 5 gal of water per acre. Will probably go with 3 qrt and 7 gal next time. They are a bit inaccurate in their calibration.

About a month ago I was looking for a sprayer for my pastures too. I finally decided to get this Fimco the next time I go to TSC.
http://www.external_link/fimco-3-point-hitch-mounted-sprayer-with-6-roller-60-gal-lg-60-3pt-wp-309-bl-tsc-2152251

I went the same route. Don't miss the booms at all.

I have been using the single nozzle for many years. Place isn't big enough to use booms which I tried once with rented equipment.

I mounted mine on a post behind my tank to get some height to it (for wider dispersal) and at 20-25 psi it sprays about 25-30'. Neat thing is that I can get close to fences and spray both sides. I use a strainer preceding it and have no problems with clogs. The pressure is low enough to prevent excessive misting and drift.

Additionally, I have a splitter on the outlet where I can select the broadcast sprayer, or use a hand held sprayer like you would use to spray Pecan trees.

Mark

I used one behind my H for spraying pasture. It has, IIRC, a 50' spray total and works great. Dad has it now, however there are nozzles to cut down the flow rate also. I love using it since you don't have to worry about booms, as previously mentioned you do have to worry about drift.

i use a homemade boomless and really like it.just a few thoughts though,you say this is pasture land,and not a hay meadow.You may be surprised to learn that a lot of those weeds will have more protien content year round,than the best grass,and most animals readily seek them out. Plain old common ragweed for instance has a protien content near alfalfa,and even in the heat of summer is two or three times that of most native grasses. Better way overall in just a plain pasture is to figure out what weeds you have,try to find a way to get rid of the ones you dont want and leave the good ones. Spraying actual pastures is generaly the last thing you want to try. Even if your cutting hay,some weeds will lots of times make the hay better than worse,even though it looks bad,simply because the hay has a higher protien content.BEST WAY,graze your pasture down good ,whats left that cows wont eat are the "bad" weeds,the rest they do eat are "good". If you spray you can actually hurt the overall protien content of your range because spray doesnt descriminate between the two. ALSO,youll never really control weeds if you dont id them first. Some have to be sprayed in fall,some in spring,some need a long lasting residue to kill or your just wasting money. Just a few things to think about that i hope helps. Just randomly spraying for weeds seldom gets the results you want,and if you dont really target they specific weed you dont want,youll often make it worse simply because you kill off others you make more bare ground and moisture available to the one your trying to control. Not saying never to spray,just saying to know your weeds so you can do it most effectively. i personally dont spray a lot,except spot spraying,most weeds you can control by mowing at the right time,but if you have to spray youll have to do it properly or youll not get the desired result. If your goal is a 100% weed free monoculture of a certain type,kill everything and start over. In MY OPINION youll save money and more importantly MAKE money in the long run. If your after just a better pasture,over half the plants found in a normal field has more protien than the grass and are readily sought out by livestock. At the end of the year that protien has to be replaced by supplemental feeding which is money straight out of your bank account if you remove them. Of course it looks better to have a weed free pasture,but a bad year for grass, where those benificial weeds can draw moisture from deeper under ground, can save your herd. # one cause of pasture failure is a monoculture. think about it before you spray,it should be the last choice.