overhead door cement approach pad question

Ray

Well-known Member
I recently built a new pole building.I'm using a gravel floor,with a 20 ft overhead door and a 20 ft slider (two 10 ft doors).I've priced a cement pad for under both doors 2ft wide 3 ft deep by 20ft and the cheapist estimate was 2100 bucks.Is there something else that will work?I wonder if something like pre cast cement would work,just dig down and install it.
 
New crossing ties would work for many years. Set them in corse gravel on the sides, and undisturbed earth under them. Jim
 
properly installed pavers will last quite a while.grass would be something you would have to deal with.
 
2 ft wide and 3 ft deep is a lot of concrete.
Consider a crawl space foundation--8 inch by 16 inch footing below frost line--8 x 16 concrete block up to a 12 inch wide by 8 inch deep slab at grade. You can fill the concrete block cells with concrete if you want it more solid. Back fill with round gravel
 
3 feet deep? Why? Most concrete slabs are 4 inches deep, or maybe 6 inches for real heavy equipment. Maybe I'm not understanding what you're doing.
 
Lots of people just pour a slab in the building and continue it out a ways.Seems like a sure fire way of cracked up concrete under your doors not to mention it can heave up and make them not work right. I don't like this. I'm also in Ohio.
I pour a footer like that right under my overhead doors. Not that wide though ? Fairly easy to form up with flake board,2x4's,and some all thread rods to hold the forms all together to prevent blow out. I like the flake board better then plywood as it is porous and the concrete will force out air pockets.
I then pour my floor inside right up against the footer. Would also work great for an inside gravel floor to.
 
You need about a yard of concrete to pour a slab 6 inches thick. 20ft x 3 ft. in size.

Concrete will be under $100 plus a lot more just to deliver it.

Steel another $100

Framing wood $50

I am no concrete man but i framed and poured sidewalks on the farm that are not too perfectly finished but they are square and they sure beat walking in the mud.

I poured a 1 foot wide strip of concrete in every barn doorway to hold the gravel floor in place. Still there 5 years later. Formed a hole at the center of each doorway for a door lock rod to fasten the door. Piece of PVC pipe in the concrete.

Smooth it off with a 2x4 and brush finish it.
 
It needs to be down to the frost line to keep it from moving with the frezing and thawing of winter.
 
If you pour a drive, pour it over rigid styrofoam - needs to be Dow (not bead board) so frost doesn't penetrate and cause it to heave. I used to live in a 40 below climate and that's the only thing that I've seen work.
 
I used 6x6 treated post under my doors put them down in the ground till the door seal would set on them for a good seal 10 foot long post will fit a 10 foot door or use longer for a wider door worked good for me.
 
We poured one last year 3" blue xps styrofoam over a bit of crushed rock with drain tile in it. 6" welded wire mesh and 5.5" of concrete (2x6 forms). It was an apron too, 32 ft wide, 10 ft long. Cost was 600$ or so for the cement but it didn't all go into the form, we were pouring other stuff too. I cut 4 saw cuts and it hasn't cracked or heaved. I kept it clear all last winter, we're below freezing from Nov to mid March.
 
Wow; someone is mixed up. call a good concrete man and tell him you want an approach that won't heave. let him decide how deep and how to build it. he does this for a living!
 
I laid a row of cement blocks (cinder blocks) crossways, across the area where I wanted a threshold. Carefully leveled them, as I laid them, filled in cartefully, and they have held up well. None have broken, and only a few have sunk - less than half an inch.
 
Ray, Where do you live? I live in W. centeral Indiana. Our frost line, according the the building inspector ,is 24 inches for the footer on a house. However, the floor on my pole barn is only 6 inches. I have a 10 ft slab in front of barn. I have angled the dirt around the barn so all the rain runs away. We don't get extremely cold here. Nothing has moved and no cracks in floor or outside either. I don't think the total cost for my concrete floor was $2100.
George
 
Ray,
Before I would let go of $2100, I would install a 6-8 inch thick pad, lower than needed and fill in with a rubber skirt to compensate for heaving.

Do your sidewalks heave that much in Ohio?
George
 

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