concrete sealers recommendations

I need some advice on concrete sealers. I had concrete poured in my 40X40 shed a few weeeks ago. I'm want to seal the concrete to protect the concrete from sucking in oils from spills for easier cleanup. I heard about using linseed oil and kerosene mixed 50/50 and sprayed on. Is this any good? I know there's alot of sealers on the market. I'd like some input/ experiences/ and recommendations anyone may have. Maybe I should just leave it alone.
Thanks for any input.

I like Thoro Seal. It penetrates quite a bit to toughen the surface and repel water grease and oil rather than just sit on top. You can top coat it too. It takes a lot because it soaks in.

I used Thuro Seal as that is what my mason recommended.

I would leave it alone. Sawdust or clay removes oil. Sealer makes it slick and you will bust your butt. BTDT.
Richard

Did it have any cure & seal sprayed on it after it was poured ? If so Alot of products say to strip that off before coating. The cure & seal stuff gas and brake clean soften it up fast ! I don't like it in my shop. Dad had some old floor wax liquid I spread some of that on half of my garage and it seemed to help.

Euclid Chemical Company, has a good product line for concrete coatings, quality materials, used to be in the NY state 03300 specifications for concrete accessories if I recall. These products would be used in commercial/industrial buildings.
Euclid Chemical Company

IF,you use commercial sealers there are basicaly two types,one that penetrates the concrete,and one that doesnt. the ones that doesnt penetrate GENERALY leaves a very slick surface when wet. but often doesnt require a second coating.the penetrating kind GENERALY provides more of a natural surface ,but often does require a second coat for complete coverage. what you use basically depends on what your trying to achieve.if your looking for better cleanup the non penetrating types work better ,but they are often extremly slick and require a addative such as sand to make them less so. penetrating types would work better if you used floor dry or one of those products ,but are not AS slick. another,and often MORE important factor is your location and your winter weather.concrete is not water tight as we all know, so if you heat this area water will try to come through the concrete.in a area with hard winter,if you use a sealer that lays on top or is non penetrating, water will come through the concrete stop at this layer freeze and cause spalling. since a penetrating type actually closes the pores of the concrete so to speak, water doesnt sit on surface and spalling is greatly reduced,because ground heat will not let it freeze in most cases. so in the end choice is largely how and when your going to be using this building.penetrating type would be better in a building that was not constantly heated.and the non penetrating type would be better and give eisier cleanup in one that is constantly heated and protected from freezing. and just fyi,its far far cheaper to buy commercial sealer than it is to mix linseed oil and kerosene.while that does work, dont use it unless no other sealer is available. And you probably do not want to seal the flammable kerosene in a floor where you might use a torch. this is the same mix used to seal canvas years ago.for the fire danger,look up circus tent disasters.

When I built mine I used a professional concrete sealer (I think it was Eagle Mfg. brand) and it did a good job sealing the concrete and really keeps the dust down. It was kind of slick to begin with but after a little use it was not a problem. I have had it for 5.5 years and it has held up good. The only issue I have with it is that gasoline and solvents will dissolve it leaving a blemished area that is sticky for awhile.
If I were to do it again I think I would look at using the epoxy covering like you see in a lot of commercial garages that is solvent resistant and should hold up better in a working shop.

Sodium silicate or waterglass is an old time sealer that wont leave a slippery surface.