OT, opinions on GM tractor mover in tank fuel pump

D Slater

Well-known Member
Looking for input on the best lasting fuel pump others have used. Mine give out after 138000 miles. Truck is a K2500 1999 GMC 5.7 engine. Only use it to haul tractors maybe a dozen times a year now and hope to get a pump that will outlast the truck.
 
AC Delco all the way,but not necessarily from a dealer.Many other mom and pop part stores can buy from an OEM vendor such as Factory Motor Parts inc in MN.
 
I have a carquest one in my pickup so far so good only been a year so far have put others in and they seem to be fine differently won't buy one from a GM dealer dad paid 450 for his from Chevy dealer
 
Is an AC Delco fuel pump a good fuel pump? Maybe, but remember that AC Delco is just a re-boxer. They make little or no parts themselves, just have other companies make it for them, put the AC Delco label on, and mark up the price.
 
I would just use a Delphi or Ac Delco. 99 will have the expensive unit that has the pump and fuel level float in one unit. Hopefully you'll have better luck than I have. I have a 97 that's on it's 4th pump and that one is getting weak.
 
I heard the fuel pump depends on the gasoline to cool it, so when it runs more than half low, I fill mine up. Rescued a friend once whose 98 GMC one-ton gave up the ghost at a gas station, right after he filled up far from home, of course. Had to have it towed to the dealer. Didn't hear how much it set him back.
 
My 96 Ford F150 has 2 tanks,196000.Tanks have been replaced but pumps are original.I keep the rear tank as a reserve most of the time.In tank pumps are stupid.Used to buy a new pump for the 36 for 2 bucks.
 
(quoted from post at 05:38:08 09/25/12) Looking for input on the best lasting fuel pump others have used. Mine give out after 138000 miles. Truck is a K2500 1999 GMC 5.7 engine. Only use it to haul tractors maybe a dozen times a year now and hope to get a pump that will outlast the truck.

If I were to do the job and supply the pump...

Aftermarket you save $100 you do not get a labor warranty you saved the $100 you take the chance... The big issue with aftermarket is noise if you can live with a corn grinder in the tank its yours you saved the $100...

OEM you get a 100% warranty....

Either will come with a repair harness plan on doing some wiring.....(cut and splice) You will need to heat shrink the butt connectors get the tank away from the heat source...
 
I have replaced an in tank pump on my wife's 93 Mitsubishi Eclipse and on her 94 Suzuki Sidekick with pumps purchased on line from www.onlyfuelpumps.com. They had to be removed from the tank module and the new one wired and secured. No problems in 2+ years so far. Not much harder than replacing the whole module. Most of their pumps are in the $70-90 range. I will go back to them the next time I need one.
 
Agreed.

Keeping the tank somewhat full and the fuel filter changed helps the most. Making the pump work extra hard to suck up from a near empty tank and forcing fuel through a half clogged filter take a lot of miles off its life.
 
Original failed between 47 and 49000. Truck now has 187000 plus on the replacement. Can't find anything to identify it, but may be a GM pump since it has GFT on it. Tank never ran low and fuel filter changed around every 8000 miles. Sock was clean.
Ford ranger I had went over 250000 on the original one.
 
(quoted from post at 17:25:10 09/25/12) OEM is what failed in the first place.

I am sure most everyone that wrenches for a living will tell ya they find the fuel filter stopped up are extremely restricted on 90% of the pumps that fail....
No pump will stand up to poor maintenance... Most all drive-ability issues that show up at my door that have been around the block tune'n on it the fuel filter was never touched.... A new filter may not fix the issue but its EZ money and a good maintenance practice....
 
I have not found any that last very good in some cars. My wife will not listen and keep her car full of gas. I get to replace the pump about every other year.

The local GM guys say it is a combination of several things.

1) Plugged fuel filters causing the pump to work harder. So I change mine every third oil change. Has helped a little bit.

2) Lower gas level makes pump work harder. HAVE had ZERO luck getting the wife to change this. She buys her gas $10 at a time. This used to be a half a tank on her car but now it does not even get her to town a few times. I just fill it up when ever I drive it but she waits until the low fuel light comes on and buys $10 again.

3) Lower gas level also makes the pump not keep cool. The gas acts a coolant for the pump. It is made to be submerged. Low level causes the motor to overheat and fail more often.
 
I've already posted on this subject but will do so again to mention a few things. I have already replaced a few pumps on a 1997 GMC. At a minimum, it's on pump #5. #5 is actually too weak to make the required 60psi.Every pump received a new WIX filter and were also replaced as regular maintenance if the pump didn't die first. I currently have an Airtex E8248 run inline with the other pump still running, and it works great. The airtex NEVER gets warm. I have this covered with some rubber to keep road crap off of it and it still stays cool. I think it's complete BS that these original Vortec engines have this kind of problem. I've seen a TBI pump and they look identical. As far as I'm concerned GM took a reliable tbi pump and upped the pressure to the point it was an unreliable pump that needed to be immersed in liquid to last 50000 miles. Then to top it off, in mid 97 they made it into an expensive pump/sender assembly that's no better than the $100 replacable pump.
 
Guess I was lucky that number 2 lasted from just under 50000 to over 187000.
Thanks for all the replies. Also lucky I just returned from a 300 mile trip and it failed about 75 feet from being parked.
 

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