Clearing 1/2 to 2.5 trees with bushhog

I have the chance to add 20 acres that hasn't been farmed in several years. The acres aren't too badly overgrown but there are many 1/2 to 2.5 in. saplings in places. I was thinking of bushhogging them and then moldboard plowing the stumps under in the spring. I'm sure there are plenty guys on here that have faced this. Would a 4440 JD pull a 6-18 bottom (only option I have) in this situation? Or will the little roots stop me in my tracks? What about the little "stumps" and tires? Any other ideas?

Plowing tree roots like that out stopped my F-20 with a 2-14.

when you brushhog it make sure ypou have very dull blades which will shatter the trunks off, the trunks will decompose a lot faster also
if you use sharp blades then you end up with sharp spears that will puncture youre tires

good luck

Ron

Bush hog, and hay for a coupla years, to let the stumps rot a little. Then chisel plow, and you will have better results.

if you can plow them out,you should be able to pull them out.

I've plowed out a lot of saplings. Years ago the brother of the fellow I worked for had a bush hog behind a wide front Farmall M. He claimed it would cut anything he could get the wide front over. We asked how it came out, He said, "like ball-bats"

(quoted from post at 09:56:42 08/02/12) if you can plow them out,you should be able to pull them out.

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I found that pulling them out was a better way to go generally. Still had a lot of problems with the moldboard plugging up from roots that remained. They catch on the plow like bits of baling twine. Leaving the entire stump would have to be a very irritating experience.

Pulling was pretty easy. A 5/16" log chain wrapped twice at the base was generally enough grab hold and go. I even do do that with the dozer sometimes because it leaves a lot less mess to fix.

The shorter the stumps, the less chance of tire damage. When the 4440 is pulling that six bottom the tires will be scratching and clawing, and, well, you get the idea. $1500 for a new rear tire! If the plow doesn't turn up stumps it will trip over them. The stumps that are turned up will have to be picked out of the field by hand, and when you go to pick one up there will still be one root in the ground that will be ancoring it down. Then you get the loader and chain. If it was mine I'd no-till for a few years to let the stumps rot before you plow it.

A couple of years ago the people I harvest with planted soybeans into 40 acres that came out of CRP. It had a pretty heavy population of cedar trees so the farm manager that oversaw the land had someone come in with a skid steer with a shear. He cut them off at ground level and they gave no problem. However, there was one corner, maybe three acres, that the landowner said he would handle himself with a chainsaw. The landowner left some 4" to 8" stumps. The beans were no-tilled and that fall when the combine went through, those stumps the landlord left did major damage to the cutterbar to the tune of $3000 for a new 40" cutterbar. Jim

Your plow sure wont like the stumps. Get a chain and pull the trees out before you get the plow caught in the roots you still will have some so go slow.

Alright so it sounds like pulling them will be a better way to go. How well will they be stuck in the ground? Will my 1850 Oliver no weights play with the bigger 2.5" ones or is this a 4440 job? Thinking of maybe pulling them and then collecting and hauling off to the side of the field, then mowing the weeds and disking it in the spring. Seems reasonable?

I find that saplings are less trouble with the use of a front end loader. Push the tree ouit by placing the bucket lip close to the ground and lift it out while driving forward. If needed, cut into the ground a few inches before the stump and again lift while driving forward. The smaller roots are easy then to bushog and the plow wi take cre of what's left.

Trees pull out easier if there is some moisture in the ground. I often watered around the trunks of larger trees before I tried to pull them over or dig them out. If you can wait until you get some rain the trees will be easier to take out when the ground is softer.

Maybe spray the trees before taking them out to try to kill the roots. Often healthy roots left in the ground will re-sprout as new trees for a year or two.

I am 2 years ahead of you. I did just as you are planning. I only have about 3 acres. WHAT A MESS! This is what you should do with 20 acres, it will save you time and money: get a crawler, any size will do push out the saplings then a heavy disc, plant it in something you will mow about 4 times a year. Experience is the best teacher and fools will learn from no other, my Grandma said.

Neighbor across the road from me had/has some overgrown fields that he wanted me to make hay in. So i first brush hogged them for 2-3 years in a row. Then I started cutting and baling them, now a few years later the stumps and junk are rotted away and it makes for easy plowing/disking/planting.

(quoted from post at 09:28:05 08/02/12) I have the chance to add 20 acres that hasn't been farmed in several years. The acres aren't too badly overgrown but there are many 1/2 to 2.5 in. saplings in places. I was thinking of bushhogging them and then moldboard plowing the stumps under in the spring. I'm sure there are plenty guys on here that have faced this. Would a 4440 JD pull a 6-18 bottom (only option I have) in this situation? Or will the little roots stop me in my tracks? What about the little "stumps" and tires? Any other ideas?

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he bushog will do but you may need to go several passes to chop it up fine enough.
2 1/2" trees is pushing it though.
Follow up with a couple passes with a deep till cultivator with spikes and you got most roots on the surface.

Picking that stuff is another story.

If your in a hurry get a dozer.
If not shred it. I shredded 40 acres with trees up to 3". Anything bigger than that we ran a chain saw. That land is pasture now for about 2 years. I've kept it shredded so the Bermuda & Bahia have a chance to take over. Still lots of weeds. Dad told me that it talks 2-3 years after clearing to be able to run a plow. But the was years ago with subsantially smaller equipment.

I use to bush hog 8 acres of saplings for a neighbor. Each year they cam back up bigger. I stopped 10 years ago and it is a woods now. Some roots never quit growing.

Do you have a skid steer? Or access to one? This thing would be the trick to remove saplings.
Stump bucket

Your rotary mower/ moldboard plow idea is the best idea.

Do not get a dozer. Do not get a skid steer. You will waste time and money. You already have all the equipment you need to do a good job.

If all the trees have less than 3" trunks, hog em down. A 4440 will pull a 6-18 plow with ease IF you have any moisture at all in the ground. That tractor won't even know the tree roots are there. The severed roots may eventually become lodged in the framework of the plow. Be prepared to hop off a time or two to remove them.

Have any manure? Spead it, then plow it down.