School me on the 4010, 4020 and all the raves and value

Dyed in the wool red IH fan here-non farmer. I have limited exposure to the 4010-4020 series. Other than using a couple as a hired hand a few times. I seem to recall the '20 shuttle shifted between odd gears? So, in a brief condensed descrption, tell me why the 4020 is so much better than the '10, or the 20 series in general. I know the 20 series is great and has awsome resale. So why it is worth so much more. Keep it brief and to the point. AND please spare me your brand wars, I really don't care. The value of some things don't impress me. i. e. I think a 57 Chevy is the ugliest thing I ever saw.

The "shuttle"shift you describe is probably a 'power shift'.While practicly the same tractor,20s have a little more power,and several improvements(both internal and external).10 series were made from '61 thru 63.20s were made from 64 thru 72.Later('69-'72)are more desireable due to the side hydralic controls and other improvements.

I think he was probably describing the Syncro-Range shifter because he mentioned "odd gears". The Syncro transmission shifts between 1 and 3, 2 and 5, 4 and 7 and 6 in 8 each in their separate syncronized range gear. The first 2 Syncro ranges (or 3 depending on linkage) have a reverse gear also. The idea is you can shift between those gears in a range without stopping, but if you want to change ranges, you have to come to a complete stop. So you can shift from 6th gear to 8th gear on the move, but if you want to get into 7th, you have to stop first.

The Powershift control was just a lever that had 1-3 reverse on one side and 1-8 forward on another and park below. You never have to stop or use the clutch to shift between any gear, but it's a really good idea to stop before shifting between forward and reverse .

I have a 4010 syncro and a 4020 powershift. The 4020 has about 10 more HP and is a lot more comfortable to use. They worked out a lot of annoyances and problems with the 20-series, which I think is why the 20's are worth so much more. Just less headaches. My 4010 has perpetual problems with the hydraulic pump (rebuilt about 3 times I think) The brakes on the 4010 are very touchy and if the engine ever dies, you have NO BRAKES. The interchangable PTO shaft on the 4010 is a bad design and uses 4 bolts to hold the shaft in instead of the snap ring the 4020 uses so it's prone to loosening up and leaking. The 4020 has a much nicer 3pt lift arm setup (used all the way up to the 50 series?) and doesn't drop expensive parts off the lift arms out in the field for you to plow under. That's all I can think of right now, but having used both tractors for a very long time, it makes sense to me why the 4020 resale is much higher.

My 4020 has 12,000 hours

My 4010 has 8,000 hours

The 4010 has been around the farm a lot longer.

I'm a diehard REDguy,but I've got lots of hrs on a 4020 and quite a few on a 4010...You could be right on the syncro shifting thing.But I've spent many hours cleaning corrals and packing(silage)pit with a 4020ps.1/3 to 1/2 throttle;no clutch"shuttle shifting"(at bosses instruction).Foot off the footfeed,shift,mash the foot throttle....

Hehe. Yeah, the powershift has a nice design feature to protect the transmission. If you're moving at more than about 2MPH and shift into neutral, it makes a sound like it's crying out in agony. I'm not sure if it was intentional or not (I think it's some type of brake in the transmission), but I just never been able to bring myself to shift it into reverse until it was done bawling at me

(quoted from post at 21:12:20 07/05/12) Dyed in the wool red IH fan here-non farmer. I have limited exposure to the 4010-4020 series. Other than using a couple as a hired hand a few times. I seem to recall the '20 shuttle shifted between odd gears? So, in a brief condensed descrption, tell me why the 4020 is so much better than the '10, or the 20 series in general. I know the 20 series is great and has awsome resale. So why it is worth so much more. Keep it brief and to the point. AND please spare me your brand wars, I really don't care. The value of some things don't impress me. i. e. I think a 57 Chevy is the ugliest thing I ever saw.

Click to expand...

never really liked them.the hydr controls are on the dash and running a loader was awkward, and the tractor is to long to my liking.
I can't see the prices what they're bringing.

I own a 4010 and a 4020, and I would say that there is no one feature on them that makes them so desirable, they are just a good all-around machine. They are simple enough to have an advantage over the newer machines, and have better ergonomics and are more user friendly than older machines. I think they are very pretty machines as well, I do like that the green and yellow is a more natural color scheme, blends nicely in the fields. Mine are both synchro-range, and a powershift is in the works, I certainly like the powershift better. I couldn`t say they are a better machine than a 8*6 series IH, or a 1900 series Oliver, both are great tractors, Deere just has more brand recognition in America I think.

I really like the cars from the late 50s, then in the 60s they rounded all the corners and ruined the looks. By 66 the sharper corners were back and cars looked nice again. It's all in the eye of the beholder. I do like the styling of the 3020 4020 which look like the 3010 4010 but have some improvements I don't know much about but seems to make them more desirable. They were good tractors but I would not trade my 656 diesel for a 3020. And if I had an 806 I would not swap it for a 4020.

redtom
540/1000 rpm pto difference between 10 & 20 series was mentioned in that on the earlier series pto stub shaft bolted on while 20 series was held in with a snap. Although that is true the tiny speed shift pin that was eliminated on the 20 series is more important in my opinion than how the stub shafts were attached to tractor. Once the tiny pin(parts key 32) was bent/broken 10 series required a tractor split to repair pto. 540 stub shaft pushes on rod(parts key #59) that pushes on tiny pin(parts key 32) to change speed of pto.20 series pto speed changed when correct stub shaft(540 or 1000) was inserted it went in the correct speed drive gear. Photo is of 10 series pto not 20 series.

(quoted from post at 01:50:18 07/06/12)

Click to expand...

never really liked them.the hydr controls are on the dash and running a loader was awkward, and the tractor is to long to my liking.
I can't see the prices what they're bringing.[/quote]

Bison
The same thing could be stated about Bison meat. If it's easier to raise than beef then why is it so much higher to buy in the store. I'm not bashing Bison meat as I like it and Beefalo meat very much. What makes 4020's bring so much is there are a lot of people that "LIKE UM"

I replaced the pin in mine with out splitting the tractor. Apparently, a genius mechanic out there figured out how to do it and my 4010 is modified accordingly. It was a very nice surprise when the cap screws on my PTO shaft came loose. Afterwards, I drilled holes thru the screw caps and threaded stainless wire thru them. They aren't getting loose now.

I have a 4010 & 4020 powershift. I went green because dealers were close, but the red tractors were cheaper. However, I have a IH 300U and it is a nightmare to work on. The engineering is too complicated and things are hard to reach.

(quoted from post at 06:39:49 07/06/12) I replaced the pin in mine with out splitting the tractor. Apparently, a genius mechanic out there figured out how to do it and my 4010 is modified accordingly.

Click to expand...

I'm curious to known how you replaced parts key #32(either one or both) in the photo without splitting the tractor. I have modified the pto's in 10 series by removing the 1000 rpm pto drive gear(parts key #39).

(quoted from post at 11:23:30 07/06/12) redtom
540/1000 rpm pto difference between 10 & 20 series was mentioned in that on the earlier series pto stub shaft bolted on while 20 series was held in with a snap. Although that is true the tiny speed shift pin that was eliminated on the 20 series is more important in my opinion than how the stub shafts were attached to tractor. Once the tiny pin(parts key 32) was bent/broken 10 series required a tractor split to repair pto. 540 stub shaft pushes on rod(parts key #59) that pushes on tiny pin(parts key 32) to change speed of pto.20 series pto speed changed when correct stub shaft(540 or 1000) was inserted it went in the correct speed drive gear. Photo is of 10 series pto not 20 series.

Click to expand...

Yeah, BTDT. Had to split an old 3010 many years ago when that PTO speed shift pin broke. That put the PTO is both speeds at once, locked up the entire tractor. Had to to push it on a trailer and tow it into the shop. The most annoying part was that 3010 was a backhoe/loader and the PTO was never used or needed...

I have 3 powershift and none of them make a noise when shifted to neutral. Are you sure the park pawl is not draging when you come threw neutral That sounds like it to me.

With you on the '57 Chevy. I think '56 Chevy's were one of the nicest looking Chevy's ever made.

I keep hearing the "dash hydraulics"- wasn't that an IH invention with the 300- 400 series? And JD moved it to the console on the -20 series and really made it nice and then improved it on the -30's. As for the goofy shifting pattern, JD put everything on one stick instead of four like on the red things (H,L, or R, 1-2-3-4, D or OD, PLUS a Park lever!!!!!)

At least one of the pins can be replaced by drilling a strategically placed hole in the trans case. I have replaced the pins on a couple that way that were previously drilled. It is tedious work but way faster than splitting the tractor. The hole is tapped for a 1/2" pipe plug.

(quoted from post at 08:53:27 07/06/12) At least one of the pins can be replaced by drilling a strategically placed hole in the trans case. I have replaced the pins on a couple that way that were previously drilled. It is tedious work but way faster than splitting the tractor. The hole is tapped for a 1/2" pipe plug.

Click to expand...

Cliff
How does one install the tiny cotter pin in the tiny shift pin through a 1/2" hole????

my neighbor has 2 4020 syncro shifts. i run them quite a bit, and altho being a red fan, they are good solid machines. yeah, the shifter is a little strange, but not hard to get used to. fairly simple solid 100 hp tractor. i'd own one. one thing that suprises me, for a non glow plug tractor, his will start in zero degrees without being plugged in, and more often than not, without ether.

The 4010 and 4020 had outstanding creature comforts,the seat was the best in the industry,the brakes were as good at 5000 hours as when new,the steering and handling were unmatched.A woman could go out spend a full day on a 4020 and not be shot.They were nicer to get on and off than many others.There was no TA or multi-power or hydra drive to free wheel when going downhill.A 806 IH may have a longer lasting engine but you have to climb up a latter to get on,the brakes are poor and the steering takes more effort than the Deere.The positive park feature was better than brake locks or park levers.They are a great chore tractor even today with good dealer service and parts support.We have 10 ten and 20 series tractors that are used every day.

A late model 4020 powershift is a pretty nice tractor. You could not give me a crazy maze syncrorange.

yes, there is a 3/4" pipe plug drilled in the transmision case side. I stuck a small x-mas tree light in the hole to see, wrapped a wire around the pin end, used grease as glue and stuck it thru the pin hole. I wrapped wire around the cotter pin and did the same thing. I also used a small magnet on a handle to grab the broken pieces. Kinda like tractor surgery without the open heart.

exactly, I did mine that way. You work thru the hole. Some genius figured it out. I don't understand why JD didn't just cast an access port into the side.

It's not grinding or anything like it does if you put it in park when moving. Anwyay, it probably doesn't much matter since it's been acting the same way for the 25 years I've been using it, so I guess it's probably OK

Part of what is making for the high prices is that the 25-35 yr old farm boys need something to "collect" and they just ain't into the old 2 cyl models. In short , they are the next "collectable" John Deeres , and they can work them at the same time. All of the 1961 - '68 or so "muscle tractors" are going up in value for good ones. No need to buy "project tractors" there's enough nice ones left but they ARE going up. I believe Oliver will be right behind JD in this race. A pristeen 1850 or 1855 is a hard tractor to fault and will fetch a good $$$.