Box blade recommendations

Dean Olson

Well-known Member
What's the rating system for box blades?

How much does the tractor need to weigh? How heavy can the box blade be?

How many HP per foot of blade?

Any other advice and opinions are appreciated.

I'm going to buy either a 6' with 6 manual scarifiers or a 7' with 7 hydraulic scarifiers. I've found one of each in the right price range.

I have a 55 Farmall 300, 56 JD 60, and a 2006 JD 5103.
 
I know almost nothing about the subject, but I can tell you my experience.

I have a 5-1/2 foot L&S with manual scarifiers. I was VERY nervous about buying it because I only have a JD 750 Compact to run it with, and I was scared it would be too much blade for the tractor.

I went ahead and bought it because the price was right.

To my amazement, the little JD handles it like a champ. A 750 has 18-20 PTO HP and weighs around 1800 pounds. I'd be in trouble without the MFWD, but I can put the scarifiers all the way down and walk right off with it in my gravel driveway. It's the first thing I've tried in 25 years of trying to keep potholes out of my drive that actually works.

Haven't tried it in clay or loam yet, but do have a couple of projects in that area a little further down the Honey-Do list.

Based on my experience, any of the tractors you list should handle a 6 or 7 footer no problem.

As to brand, the only one I've ever looked at closely is the L&S I wound up buying. As in any purchase, look at the weight of the materials used, bracing and welds.
 
I pull a 6" with a tired 8n. You can get too much gravel in it, but ti handles it with a little common sense. I would think your tractors would handle either.
 
I have a 6' that I pull with a Massey 35 and will use with my Farmall 300 once I get it together. I also used a 5' rental unit for a couple of days and it was fine. They are not that heavy to lift, and they don't take that much power to pull unless you want to dig really deep. In loose dirt I can fill the box right up and drag it around, on grass or hard packed dirt I can only scrape up a few inches at a time but it still will get a lot of work done pretty fast. Manual scarifiers are good enough for me, I only change them once or twice on a job generally.
Zach
 
most times you can use the rule that the box blade needs to be just wide enough to cover the tractors rear tires so it wont leave tire tiretracks, with the tractor tires set at a "normal setting" not at maximum width, usually 5 or 6' is right for that size tractor, you may spin with a 6 footer fully loaded, but unless your running a huge set of rear weights you wont have the traction to pull much wider,
 
I have a 6 ft box blade on a Jubilee. If you have used a box blade and like it great. I on the other hand I hate my box blade. When the front wheels go in a pot hole, the box blade comes up and I leaves a speed bump of gravel behind. Too much gravel in blade and wheels start spinning. I don't have ballast or weights.

I made my own V-shaped 3 pt self leveling unit for leveling drive ways and filling in ruts in yard without removing grass in process. I'll try to post of pic of it. Made it from 10 inch mobile home I-beams. Works great. Made the arms float like they do on a woods rear mower.

If you are wanting scarifiers, you must be wanting to break up a drive or dirt. Mine won't do that, great for leveling, not breaking up.
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Look for one rated for at least 60 H.P. There's some really cheaply made ones out there that if you get the blade caught on something, you'll bend it. I bought a medium duty Frontier(Woods)7' at a JD dealer that is pretty good. The ones with hydraulic scarifiers are usually built pretty strong. In hard packed clay, my tractor will stop if I try to go too deep with the scarifier teeth.
 

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