Looking for help on ideas for a garage...

I am finally going to build a much needed garage as right now all I got is a 10x20 Portable Garage with a pea gravel floor.

Our 1.5 acre property does not have a patch if level ground anywhere and the back half borders a "wetland" that I cannot build 300 feet from.

With these limitations I am going to have to build either far away from the house. Not the best as running underground electric service will be difficult with all the ledge. Or choose from 3 small areas that will need excavating and be built up to get level.

Garage needs to be able to store 2 cars and it would be nice to have area
the '66 Ford 4500TLB could be pulled in and worked on. Even if it meant parking the hoe first, it would be nice to be able to split it inside.
The rear tires are filled as far as I know. The was what prior owner told me.

What I am wondering about is how thick of reinforced concrete do I spec for the bay that the tractor would go in? To be on the safe side I would think ability to support 10K lbs?

Link to some plans/designs.
Plan #1512-1 was one I like. It is shown as 40'x 40' but I do not need it that deep as I do not have a RV.

Pete
http://addzip.com/ezgaragelifts.htm#1512-2

2 cars will easily occupy a full 1/2 of a 40x40 building. You'll have room in the 1/2 to park your tractor, but very little extra space for tools, a welder, etc., etc.

Pete,

Perhaps I can be near first in saying you will not have a large enough garage, ever!

Meant in humor,

D.

Since you're digging, a walk in/out grease pit would be real handy. Inspection bays around here have them with angle iron set in as tracks for a jack thatcan be rolled back/ forth and side to side.

I would make sure that one of the 3 smaller sites has the soil bearing capacity needed, or you can excavate, to undisturbed, ledge etc, then build up to subgrade with a sub base material like gravel, crusher run etc. in 12" lifts 95% or better compacted, also make sure the site is then well drained etc.

I would venture to guess, (you would need to calculate this to be sure) a 6" thick slab, reinforced with appropriate deformed metal bar (rebar) would suffice for a 10,000 lb load (point load divided 4 ways, 2500lbs per wheel), concrete specified would be 4000 PSI or better.

Also consider, overall height for any overhead or clearance needed for equipment like a vehicle lift, crane or chain fall for hoisting etc.

Additionally, consider all "in slab" utilities, say pex for a heated slab, sanitary line for bathroom, electrical, spare pipe/conduit for future use if you can't do it now, but can prepare for it later. Consider or coordinate concrete design for a lift or similar, now is the time to work those things out, future use etc, later will cost double.

I like that plan, functional, has a nice look to it with the extra space with high ceiling and so on.

You will want at least a 5" thick reinforced floor. I had poor
compaction on the fill in my garage and had to put pylons
down every 10' to provide additional support.

But TRUE.. I have a 42 x 63 shed.. process of building a 24 x 27..to uncramp the 42x63...LOL Then will need another...so on and so on..

Just built a 32x50x13, and the overhead door is 16'x12'. Should have been 50x50x14. I have a 40x80 for hay storage, and need another one of those just for equipment storage. What I really need is for my wife to give me back my hammer. Ha Ha

Big box home improvement stores have books with lots of nice
layouts for such outbuildings. I like the idea of a layout like you
mentioned with a gambrel roof and a second floor. Man's gotta get
away somewhere.

40 X 40 will give 2 "bays", with some extra room for workbench, drill press, etc., etc.- but you'll have to remove one of the cars to work on anything else. Mine is 40 wide, 36 deep, and its pretty darned cramped. But I realize that its probably not just raining money on you these days, so you have to make compromises.

If its sloping site, and you have to cut one side and fill the other, make the cut side the one where you do your work on the heavy equipment, and park the lightest car on the fill side.

Build it bigger than you think you might need. Make the doors wider and higher. And you will still need a bit more space. One thing- if you plan on working in it or have problems with SWMBO and must live in it, consider piping the floor for heat. You won't regret that.

Don't be afraid of going bigger. I have a 40x26 that I was sure I'd never fill. It now has 4 garden tractors, a snowmobile, a go cart,lawn roller,air comp., 2 rototillers, a super m & super c,fasthitch plow and rear blade plus a 6 ft snowplow. engine hoist & stand, welder,solvent tank,tool box and bench. I never get anything done, spend all my time putting band aids on my shins.

thanks to all the input.
Cant put in plumbing, heat as it will then be taxed as living space. Electricity only.
review possible location yesterday. Ruled out one all together as utility pole, its guy wire and underground svc to house cut the area basically in half. Will self build shed/s there instead.
Really on leaves one area that i know has sub surface ledge. They way this lot got laid out stinks. Btw the wetland running along the back and getting a septic and leeach field setup leaves little room for anything but small 2 car garages.
I need to get a bigger spread somewhere else. Visit the wife and teenagers on the weekends! LOL
Pete