JD A head gasket

I have a JD A,1948, is there a secret to geting the head gasket to seal up? Am having trouble with water leaking between the head and block, exterior leak, no water in oil. Put tractor together, added water to top of block, water leaking exterior between head and block. Took tractor back apart, found 5 of the 9 head studs streached, replaced with good studs, reasembled again with another new head gasket water still leaking between head and block,exterrior, took apart again, out of curiosity I took a new torked headgasket and put some silicone on the block side to see if it would seel up, put tractor back together, ran until it reached 180 degrees no leak's exterior. I now have it back apart and took the block back to the machine shop to have the block surface machined before it gets put back together again. Have had the block bored and head rebuilt, head surface has been faced smooth and flat, block and head have been magnafluxed, no crackes. Just wondered if I have missed a trick, I dont want to put this thing back together again and find that I should have done something else. Also the 2 gasket set's that I put on were Felpro, they come with brass washers to seal the head nuts, do I have to put sealer on not only the block end of the studs but on the nut end as well? Is there suposed to be water in the head stud holes? This job is not only taking to long, it is getting expensive. Thank's for any input you could give me on this matter.

IF it's the gasket I have found that 3-4 coats of the copper head gasket spray prior to installation is the most effective, I also use the lead washers that ya get from Deere, not the brass/copper ones that come in a gasket set, but you also have to make sure it's not the pushrod tubes, they can go bad an leak also.

I think Pete76Ny has hit the nail on the head. If you are using the brass sealing washers then you will have leaks. Use the lead washers that where made for the tractor.

Also you said you have had the head ground to flat. What about the block??? I have seen them domed around the head bolts if they have been over torqued.

Seems pretty common for them to leak/Seep for a while..
Re-Torque after FULLY Warmed (HOT) a couple times.

An application of "Bars-Leaks" is usually a good idea..if nothing more, it will lubricate the water pump (assuming it has one)..

Ron..

I have mentioned this several times on the John Deere board but here it is again. This is the way I install head gaskets on A and 60 tractors and it has never failed. With clean, flat surfaces install the head gasket DRY with the exception of No. 3 Permatex (the liquid kind) on the OUTSIDE VERTICAL RAILS of the gasket. Keep any sealant away from the fire ring area of the gasket. Torque the head in 10 ft./lb. increments until you get to 150 ft./lbs. You can retorque if you like but I often do not. I have done dozens of these tractors and have yet to have one leak when done like this. Do NOT use Kopper Kote on this application (or any other, in my estimation). The only tractor I've ever had leak was when the customer absolutely insisted I use Kopper Kote on his tractor. Never again. Mike

I feel your pain. Last ones I did I had to coat permetex on the gasket and try to get it under the laminations at the edges. The old time gaskets had ALL the openings roll crimped over each over so they sealed up better and would not let the gasket material wick antifreeze up through them.
I had a late B that seeped only at the top when sitting for awhile. Some bar's leak dumped in and then alot of plowing to get it warm and keep it warm seemd to stop the seeps.

Don't overtighten that A either as many of those blocks are weak where the studs go anyhow and can break the block.

Thank's for getting back so quick. Got a call from the machine shop today, Monday ,6-18, the head is done, will pick it up tomorrow and get it together this weekend, cross your fingers. Will post with the results. Thanks again.
cv620.