These Damn Weeds!

Well - posted here before regards to glyphos res weeds...I applied a different herbicide with two forms of action and it killed allot more weeds - but I still have weeds up and standin - its just been rough - been real droughty and hot here in NW MO and I've got a 2wheel drive spraycoupe so getting out when moisture hits isn't possible...most acreage is good but several spots over about 20 acres is still just a mess - looks like mostly waterhemp...We got rain last night - gonna test a real good wetting of glyphos, AMS and bean oil tonight and see if it takes a sample area down at all (hand sprayer)...

Beans are about 2" to 4" tall and some still pushin up (yep droughty) Planted about a month ago...anyone ever use the 2-4DB175 formulation on beans at this early stage of growth??

What about Phoenix?

Flexstar?

Need an option quick - weeds are not too thick but are 8-15" tall...

Thanks for any advice.

Anyone here use

I too am in NW Mo,and I have a field that has never been round-up sprayed.I put it in Corn this year and am not very happy with a spray called Buccaneer Plus sold by Chillicothe MFA.I even double coverd a grassy area and its not really that sick.Its got the flowers,burs,cotton weeds,but what I call iron weeds are still pretty as a new pup.Personally I think that chemical companies have weakened the spray somehow,then blame it on glycosphate resistance to sell more expensive stuff..,and of course your local government or private agronimist working for your local co-op is going to blame it on the same thing and push a stronger(more expensive tank mix) to get the burn.I remember before all this crap when I used nothing but a spray called Harness Extra on corn and there was NOTHING left growing but corn

Gosh I never thought about your "weakened" theory. You might be on to something. Still I have practically poured gly right out of the jug and it still won't kill my resistant weeds. But maybe they changed the formulation.

Bucc Plus is what I am having trouble with. I used it last year and it killed everything! But...on all my new ground...and ground opened last year...it killed everything there this year too - its only my fields I put in in 06 that I'm havin such troubles...

I followed with a second spray of Thunder Master and read the weeds it controlled and applied it two weeks ago...It looks like it did fairly well except on what looks like water hemp. It says on one small part of the MSDS to add prowl 3.3EC for waterhemp pre emerg control and now - I see new little water hemp weeds popin up like green fuzz...

I'm new to farming...havin a blast - but hate wastin money guessin and the like you - If I ask the co-op or MFA they wanna sell me what they're buyin from their reps...so I figure I'm gonna waste money at first but learning my own mix...will save in years to come...Last year the bucc plus made weed control so simple even this pollock could do it...this year...not so much!

I'm testing now with a back pack sprayer so I can see the affect of getting more water on the plant...I'm guessing I'm dosing correct, but if I can wet the plant twice as much - put down 10gal per ac vs 5, I might get this stuff killed with the bucc plus, bean oil and Liq AMS.

Last weeks test showed a good kill on shorter weeds - I just tested for the taller stuff...

If I can add a broad leaf controller without harmin the beans - I will..

Go with 10 gal. Better coverage. Might try a different surfactant. Something that'll cut through waxy leaves. We use Preference or Activator 90.

Like Tom said about 10 gallons per acre. Put Glyphosate on healthy dry weeds. The plants must absorb the glyphosate in order for it to kill them.If they are already soaked by a rain, most of it will just bounce off. Roundup is a contact weedkiller.

dont know if will work for you but i use 3 gal of white vinigar to 200 gal well water to make water acid. clay in pond water kills rup.

Where are you at? I've found the Hefty Seed & Chemical fellas to know and share a lot more info than the local coops. Any question I asked, the answer was to use more RR-crops, pour on more RU.

The Hefty guys sat down and went over things, and put together a program that fit my crops, my soils. Stop in on an off day for trhem, in my greater neighborhood they are friendly & don't have that 'beneath us' attitude....

http://www.heftyseed.com/

I like to support the local coop, but - they didn't cut it for me on weed conntrol knowledge.

For soybean broadleaf control, getting something down before the beans emerge is the only good answer. Sonic works pretty good unless you have clay/ high organic soils, then Valor works better. The best is Gangster, which is a tub of Valor and a packet of First Rate - you can apply together or only put the ?Valor on pre, then come back with the First Rate later - cheaper than buying saeperate, lots of options. Gangster is a little-known product, but it is a nice package.

After they're up Flexstar can burn down quite a few weeds, but it's not easy to get them all. Also Flexstar will flash-burn any grass weeds, but it will _not_ kill them. You need to spray for the grasses a day or so before you put down the Flexstar. There are others for broadleaves, Pinicle - it's a generic now forget the name - will catch a few toughies, and stuff like Basagran or Cobra will get some, but don't look at your beans for a couple weeks, they will look like hell.

Also, you talk about waiting a week to test bigger weeds - you are losing the game. If it's not glyphosate, you need to be spraying 5 inch or shorter weeds, preferably 2 inch weeds. Tall weeds don't die with the 'other' herbicides, you need to hit them little and young.

I tried the liquid AMS stuff once - didn't think it worked well. Go back to the granular real AMS - it helps get bigger weeds.

Bean oil mixed with a 'plus' glyphosate might actually be a negative - the 'plus' products already have the surficant in them, the bean oil might work differently and mess up the included surficant.

Some products want a crop oil, some really want a non-ionic oil, some even do better with an MSO additive. The bean oil and the non-ionic could kinda be viewed as a positive or negative charge, you really need to matech the product with the right oil, as you know with magnets, one way they attract the other they push away - you need to get them right.

I'm still learning too.

I think something went wrong with your mix or application of Bucineer - it's a good glyphosdate product, if you are in the south there are a mess of rersistant weeds down there, but it still shoulda got most of your weeds. Did you let the jug settle out over the year(s), or some such?

--->Paul

I hate to say this but if you guys had learned to farm right from your grandfathers you wouldn"t need all that crap.

I'm no expert and my grandpa didn't farm - but I'm gonna guess old grouch means tillage and I'm thinking he's right!

thanks for the suggestions and the help...Not sure which way I'd go...still would love to know if anyone's used 2-4DB175 - I'll try a post with just that.

I started sprayin these weeds at 3-4" - I'm looking at my 3rd post emerge spray - the first two didn't get them...this is why they are so tall...

I didn't use the bean oil on the first spray - only with the thunder master were it was recommended to use a Crop oil additive and AMS.

first spray, I used what I used last year - a water conditioner - even tho I'm using public water supply (but it draws from a reservior)...

But - I'm recalibrating the sprayer this afternoon to get down more water on the plants...hoping that will kill more if not all...

Nope, resistant weeds are resistant weeds. You may have some old chemical or some that froze/heated over its storage guidelines. It is possible there was a screwup at the factory but not likely. It has to be applied just right to work. Right growth phase, right weather conditions, right application rate (NOT GUESSING!)

Throw a little of the old generation Classic into the mix. It will ding your beans but does a decent job on the weeds. 'Course its been 12 years since I have seen Classic, they may not market it anymore.

(quoted from post at 12:02:23 06/12/12) Nope, resistant weeds are resistant weeds. You may have some old chemical or some that froze/heated over its storage guidelines. It is possible there was a screwup at the factory but not likely. It has to be applied just right to work. Right growth phase, right weather conditions, right application rate (NOT GUESSING!)

Click to expand...

Read, understand, and follow the label. More is not better. Have you forgotten about cultivating and become a chemical addict?

Thundermaster which is a genric form of Extreme, needs to have roundup added to it to get the full load. Anybody that tells you to use a partial rate product of half rate is an idiot, that just make more resistant weeds worse. Classic is still around and another thing to try is Cobra, it will burn, but put ProPlus with it or something to lessen the burn.

tjiniowa has it! There were products out touting that you could use 1/2 or 1/4 of the labeled rate. recipe for resistance.

Old Grouch"s grandpa probaby used horses or mules for his farm work, but I"ll bet Old Grouch doesn"t. Our grandfathers used what they had, to get the most work done with the least effort and expense, just like we do. When newer technology came along, it was adopted as soon as they could get or afford it. We do the same thing, it"s just that technology advances faster than it used to.