Workmaster runs for 3 hours then power drop and dies HELP

Workmaster was running fine after 3 hours straight for cutting hay I started having issues
The tractor would sputter and power would drop. First I thought it was over heating because I have a front end loader and maybe this was blocking air for cooling. Next day the workmaster only ran 1 ½ hours and did the sputtering thing and power would drop. Luckily the cutting was done and we thought OK heat over load. We let it set for 2 hours and tried to rake this time the little tractor would start and then just die. We checked the ground for pushbutton wire and tightened and the tractor would start and die. We are not getting a spark. There is fuel. So now we need some help in trouble shooting. Now the push button will not start the tractor. We reseated the wires to the push button and it started once and died and now the push button will not start. I know all the push button is doing is grounding. So we tried taking the wire off the push button and touching metal to ground for starting this did nothing. Is it the solenoid, pushbutton switch or heat? How do we test to see which one it is?
Thanks for the help

Sounds like the coil, but I don't know the specific test- others on here will.

Also, did you ever loosen the gas cap? If vent gets clogged, it will set up a vacuum situation so you don't get fuel.

Also, try shining a light into the gas tank, as it empties, floaters like bumble bees and clover heads can get sucked into the outlet pipe, and cause intermittent shut off due to lack of fuel!

If you don"t have spark when it quits then you"ll have to find the problem in the primary ignition circuit(battery to key to coil to distributor to ground). Check the points for burning and replace the condensor.


Is it converted to 12V from 6V? If so, what type of coil do you have? There are "real" 12V coils that have ~3.2 ohms of primary resistance and there are~ 1.6 ohm coils that need a ballast resistor in series if used in a 12V ignition system. If a 1.6 ohm coil is used without a ballast resistor, the high current will cause the coil to overheat and short internally. When it cools off, it will run but overheat and short again. You could also have a high reisitance in the keyswitch that cause it to get hot, increase it"s resistance and cause a weak spark. You may have a loose wire somewhere that"s grounding out the igniton causing it to die.
Systematically check these things out and you should find the problem.

As others have mentioned, could be coil or condenser issues, or bad plugs.
It could also be a pluged vent in your fill cap and the fuel is not flowing into the carb. Try running it with the cap loose.

We do have a 1.6 ohm coils a ballast resistor I believe, I see a white ceramic plate attached to the coil. So can we buy a 12 volt coil from an auto parts store and replace the old coil?
We will finish the raking with another tractor. Also we will take a look at the points and condensor. i will keep you all posted


You all are so super kind to help.
Farmer are the BEST

THANKS

(quoted from post at 17:41:28 06/08/12) If you don"t have spark when it quits then you"ll have to find the problem in the primary ignition circuit(battery to key to coil to distributor to ground). Check the points for burning and replace the condensor.


Is it converted to 12V from 6V? If so, what type of coil do you have? There are "real" 12V coils that have ~3.2 ohms of primary resistance and there are~ 1.6 ohm coils that need a ballast resistor in series if used in a 12V ignition system. If a 1.6 ohm coil is used without a ballast resistor, the high current will cause the coil to overheat and short internally. When it cools off, it will run but overheat and short again. You could also have a high reisitance in the keyswitch that cause it to get hot, increase it"s resistance and cause a weak spark. You may have a loose wire somewhere that"s grounding out the igniton causing it to die.
Systematically check these things out and you should find the problem.

Click to expand...

This is typical of a bad condensor.

In the morning we will buy a new condensor and replace. Let you know how this worked for us. THANKS

(quoted from post at 18:49:14 06/08/12) This is typical of a bad condensor.

Click to expand...

Check point gap and condition. Also, the keyswitch on these tractors is notorious for random failures.

You should be good to go IF you have the 1.6 V coil AND a resistor that"s 1.6 ohms when it heats up for a total of 3.2 ohms. Check the resistance whee everything is at operating temperature. You may have a resisitor that"s too high when it warms up and that will reduce the primary current and give a weak spark.

Otherwise, you can get a coil from NAPA (IC-14SB) that"s 3.2 ohms.

We used a meter on the coil and found with the ignition switch on from the ignition switch to coil there was voltage, nothing coming out of the other terminal. We replaced the coil with a tractor coil and “ ba ba boom” the little Workmaster tractor came to life, hay raking was finished and baled.
See with all this wonderful help my horses can eat.
I get compost matter from them.
I put the compost on my garden
Plants grow in my garden
I eat.
You all cared to answer a little question on this forum.
You matter and I thank you for feeding us.

(quoted from post at 07:50:03 06/09/12) You should be good to go IF you have the 1.6 V coil AND a resistor that"s 1.6 ohms when it heats up for a total of 3.2 ohms. Check the resistance whee everything is at operating temperature. You may have a resisitor that"s too high when it warms up and that will reduce the primary current and give a weak spark.

Otherwise, you can get a coil from NAPA (IC-14SB) that"s 3.2 ohms.

Click to expand...