Tractor weight's

I have been needing weights for several of my old tractors, especialy, front weights for handeling round bales on my 3 point spear. There are weights available on different web sites, but shipping is higher than the weight prices. I found an excersise machine, for sale cheap, at a yard sale, with around 200 lbs of weights on it, that stack on 3/4" stainless rods.For $50. I got the whole thing, and it has yelded a lot of welding iron, and 200 lbs of weights for the tractor. They are 1" thick 3" wide, and 12" long, and weigh 10 lbs each. They have I" holes in them, and stack neatly on 3/4" rods welded vertically, on the front of the B Allis Chalmers. I am going to actively look for another excercise machine, to aquire more! Just thought I would share that Idea, for anyone needing weight's.

I want to know how you pick up big bales with an Allis B?

Thanks for sharing. I've had that thought also. Looks like a good idea for tractor pullers who need to add weight to different places on the tractor.

I was needing some weight for the front of my WD-45 so went to the local steel yard and had them cut 3 2x19x9 in steel plates. used some j-hooks and welded nuts to the frame. Works real well when using the snap coupler disk. Plates weigh about 110lbs each and use 2 on the tractor.

Leonard

Crochity! VERY CAREFULLY! In the beginning, around 13 yrs ago I bought a stuck Allis B, and gave it a complete engine rebuild, with New pistons,rings,main & rod bearings, and sleaves. also new clutch, throw out bearing, and new brake bands. I brought it out to my new 10 acres, and started using it to pull out small honey locust, 3" and smaller. I did a lot of wheelies, and the front wheels were coming down hard. I figgured that I would break the torque tube doing that. I built a excoscleton, out of 4" square tubing, running on both sides, from the 2"x2" bars by the brake and clutch pedals, to about 12" past the grill. Each tube, is suported, by two 1/2" brackets bolted to the old mounting holes already present on the tractor. I went to Northern tool, and bought a small hydraulic resivour tank(5 gal) and mounted it on the right side tube, by my starter, made an 8" channel iron cross over ahead of my grill, which tied the two tubes togeather, and provided a mount for a northern gear pump, shaft driven off the front crank shaft pulley. thru the original hand crank hole. I mounted a 3 lever control valve, on a bracket on the right fender, and then got rid of my C shaped draw bar, and the weak workmaster 3 pt, that was on it.I replaced it with a 4" tube with a 3/4" plate welded on each end which bolts where the old drawbar bolted. The padeyes on the 4" tube hold two 3" double acting cylinders, which raise and lower the beefed up rock shaft, and Ford 3 pt arms. With down pressure,and a 6' disc I have changed my rear tires without a jack! I have used a 10 gallon automotive propane tank, filled with water, for front weight, when hauling bales. It bolts on and off, on the square tubes ahead of the hydraulic pump. The tank makes the tractor too long, when turning at the fence line, working ground. Thats why I wanted the front weights. NO ONE ELSE, would work this small tractor like I do, but in 13 yrs it hasn't broke. I do have a WD45 to help it with the big stuff, but the B is my every day go to tractor.