Need help covverting 1950 super A from 6 volt to 12 volt. I put a GM altornator on and wired it according to the step by step conversion for "M or super M" not sure this will even work for the super A. Now the tractor will not start. The one thing I am not sure about is the wire coming from the ballast resistor to ignition coil / distribitor. The tractor has the push / pull kill switch which had one side grounded to the tractor before I changed to 12 volt. Before I switched it over the switch had to be pulled out to kill the tractor now from what i can tell the switch has to be out to let power pass through. "out position switch is made , pushed in, switch is open" I have tried both ways and tractor does not start.I think i am missing something with wire going to ignition coil / distribitor. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
- Thread starter HGB
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Your tractor may have a mag on it. If you Google Farmall Super A mag you will know. If it is a mag, there is no connection to the charging system at all. The ignition switch was (as you described it) used to ground the mag to stop it. If connected to power it will probably toast the mag windings, or at least the points in the mag. Let me know, More to come. Jim
Janicholson
Well-known Member
This is the way to do it if it is a mag. Jim
OK, so the old girl breathes again, although it sounds like she has the flumonia now. I assume I burned the points or something because it did run fine before my mechenic work. I had to put the wire from the mag back on the original kill switch in order to kill the tractor. Now my question is when I flip the now installed toggle switch "between alt and amm" to open position, will this keep the battery from being drained? Also what should I look for that causes the tractor to run so rough, like it is missing really bad?
OK, so the old girl breathes again, although it sounds like she has the flumonia now. I assume I burned the points or something because it did run fine before my mechenic work. I had to put the wire from the mag back on the original kill switch in order to kill the tractor. Now my question is when I flip the now installed toggle switch "between alt and amm" to open position, will this keep the battery from being drained? Also what should I look for that causes the tractor to run so rough, like it is missing really bad?
Janicholson
Well-known Member
The points are probably toast. Be careful to keep the rotor in time exactly where it is when taking it apart. There are marks to align, but look at it carefully. Take pictures! THe points are behind a wall under the cap. It must be unscrewed to access them. The points (when on the high point of the Mag cam are set at .013".
It will not run with the rotor out of time with those little gears!!!
The switch can be turned off as soon as the alt starts charging, it will continue to charge till shut off. The switch will prevent battery drain when off! Jim
It will not run with the rotor out of time with those little gears!!!
The switch can be turned off as soon as the alt starts charging, it will continue to charge till shut off. The switch will prevent battery drain when off! Jim
I don't suppose you would know where I could see a diagram showing the disassembly to get to the points would you? I am somewhat lost after reading about the alignment marks "still haven't saw them" and the small gears. I took the cap off and the rotor bug, now i'm not sure if the small plate needs to come off or the bigger section.
I don't suppose you would know where I could see a diagram showing the disassembly to get to the points would you? I am somewhat lost after reading about the alignment marks "still haven't saw them" and the small gears. I took the cap off and the rotor bug, now i'm not sure if the small plate needs to come off or the bigger section.
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