Wisconsin AENLD Engine Questions

I have a 9HP Wisconsin AENLD engine on that Jacobsen "Mow Mobile" I mentioned in a previous thread. The engine is having problems starting. Every year after sitting covered for the winter it has trouble starting for the first time, but this year it's been particularly bad.

It takes at least a dozen pulls to sometimes even get it close to starting. When it finally does start it runs fine and stays running. If I let it warm up and then shut it off and try to start it 5 minutes later it will not start again.

The high speed needle valve on the carb is supposed to be adjusted 3/4 to 1 1/4 turns out but it won't start at all at that position, so I just kept bringing the needle out further and further to try to get it to start. Right now I've lost count as to how far out it is but would estimate about 8-10 turns (way more than it should be), but it is at this point only that it will start once in a while. When cranking the engine, it backfires through the carb with a loud pop at times. Also a strong smell of fresh fuel is blown out the exhaust while cranking.

I've removed the small drain nut on the bottom of the carb and the gas drain out a bit. Gas does come out so I know it is reaching the carb and not being restricted somewhere in the line. I also sprayed carb cleaner up the hole. I've cleaned and regapped the spark plug to the recommended 0.030. I've replaced the spark plug wire. I've cleaned and regapped the breaker points to 0.015 in the magneto. It does seem to be getting spark. When I remove the plug and attach it to the wire and then place it up against the engine head (metal), I can see a definite spark when I turn the engine slowly by hand. Each time the magneto "clunks" it produces a definite spark. The engine seems to have compression as it is difficult to turn over by hand with the spark plug installed.

So my question is..... does this sound like a carb problem or something else (like a valve)? I know someone who will sell me a NOS carb if I need it. The only problem is his is a Bendix L63H and mine is an L63E carb. I've asked around and been getting conflicting answers as to whether I can substitute the L63E for the L63H. Would the L63H work on mine in place of the L63E? I also need to know definitively whether it is the carb or not as this guy is selling it for around $150. So I don't want to put a new carb on it unless thats the problem. And I definitely would rather not try and rebuild mine as I have never rebuilt a carb before and this one looks complicated as heck. Even my handyman neighbor who reuilds my carbs for me won't touch it.

So is it the carb or something else?

Sounds like your carburetor needs a good cleaning by soaking it in carburetor cleaner. Use air pressure and blow out the jets. You should have an idle jet and it may be plugged. Hold your hand over the throat of the carb and while a helper cranks over the engine. You should have good suction on your hand. That shows you have good intake manifold vacuum.

You shouldn't need to open the main jet screw that much. That's used when your engine is being worked hard under load. You adjust that under load so the engine has plenty of fuel and isn't running lean. Your engine should come back to an idle when you back off on the throttle. Hal

Those carbs are pretty simple. Clean it.

I've got a NAPA carb. book, and it lists AENLD
Wisconsins as having Zenith Carbs. The model on
the tag on the carb. should be 0-12235 or 12236
or 12375 or 12522. NAPA lists one kit for all of
those models: # 2-1565.
My 6 inch thick Wisconsin Master parts catalog,
shows L63E and L63H as being Zenith carbs, but
all of the internal jets are different. It also
shows an L63K fixed jet carb as standard and
L63E as optional,(at extra charge)as an adjust-
able jet carb.
I would NOT recommend buying the "H" carb, but
suggest that yours is probably "gummed up" and
needs a good cleaning, and a new kit. I work
mostly on 2 cylinder Wisconsins and do about
25 carbs a year and think the 1 cylinder carbs
are a simple basic carb. Your "Handyman neighbor"
must not be very competent if he "won't touch"
yours, find someone elso to do it!

So here's an update. I ordered a carb kit off of ebay and I cleaned and rebuilt carb. I soaked it in solution overnight and then rinsed with water. I then blew out all passages with compressed air. Put it all back together and it only runs on full choke (when it runs that is). Using carb cleaner to start produces mixed results. Sometimes it starts the engine, and sometimes it doesn't. So I took it apart again and adjusted the float according to spec in the Wisconsin service manual (1-5/32 inches) and cleaned everything out again with spray carb cleaner and more compressed air. Put it all back together - but still same result - won't start easily, and when it does start, will only run on full choke. In fact I have to HOLD the choke lever in place at full choke, otherwise it will move on its own and stall.

Also the glass fuel sediment bowl strainer under the tank won't fill up when I tighten the fuel lines. I also replaced that part as well - a brand new sediment bowl. Just for kicks I put the old bowl back and it too won't fill. Only when I loosen the fuel line somewhere and let air in the line will it fill the bowl.

I have taken this carb apart 3 times (including to rebuild it) and did the same thing each time: sprayed carb cleaner in all ports and passageways and then used compressed air. I've tried adjusting the two adjustment screws (the idle screw on top and the high speed screw on the bottom side). I don't know what else to do. I can take this thing apart a hundred times and still have the same result. What could be the problem?