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I'm just a simple dirt farmer, but this (somewhat conservative, but that's good) voltage drop calculator suggests a copper, 240v, 40 foot long run of 60 amps would need #10 wire.

http://www.elec-toolbox.com/calculators/voltdrop.htm

If you are not including the 7 or 8 feet esxtra yuou need on both ends for the vertical & freeze loop and such, by the time you get over 50 feet long you'd want a #8 and could sleep well at night.....

Remember to set up the 4th - ground - wire properly.

--->Paul
 
Less than 40'. Refrigeration man said min of #4. Seemed like overkill to me. Putting a/c in my shop and used unit has electric heat in it. Pulls 50 amps max and calls for a 60 amp breaker. Thanks
Dave
 
Anything else use electricity in that building? Or is this just a run out to a remote compressor unit?

It could have quite a starting rush and bigger wire does help for that, but again - I'm just a dirt farmer, the others will know more.

--->Paul
 
To be legal #4 copper THHN. If it's direct bury underground Aluminum wire then use the 2/2/2/4 since you have to upsize when using AL.
 
Okay, heres my approach, but Im long retired as an EE remember so no warranty.

1) You say a 60 amp breaker and if so it will adequately protect No 6 Copper Wire THWN insulated at 75 degrees C..........

2) You say 40 feet which isnt a whole lot BUTTTTTTT its impossible to compute voltage drop unless we know the true current.....

Soooooooooo unless the load cant tolerate and causes excess voltage drop based on its current draw, No 6 copper may well suffice buttttttttt if voltage drop is exceeded (which I doubt at only 40 feet but cant say not knowing the current) then I would bump it up to 4 gauge.

6 probably but maybe 4 is all I can say not knowing the load characteristics and the current draw, Sorry

John T
 
Ran #4 cause that is what I had. Was only going to hood up half the heating unit, but will now hook it all up. Thank you all for the advice. Was 31 ft so should be good.
 
It is just a run to the compressor and heating unit. Will come directly off meter base to unit. /Thanks Paul, Just a 1500 ft shop, well insulated. Day time is not to bad but at night the bugs get so bad you can't stay in there. 103f yesterday, 101 today. Gettin too old for this stuff.
 
Don't forget to include the temp rating of the connections. If a breaker is rated at 60*C, then whole circuit must be rated for 60*C conductors. If the breakers, etc. are rated at 75*C and the conductors are rated 75*C, then the whole circuit can be rated at 75*C levels.Just something else to think about.
 
If you are using 60 amperes, wiring would have to be computed for 75 amps. 60 at 125% That is the national code minimum if I recall. That means number 4 copper. Old and rusty electrician.
 
If you are using 60 amperes, wiring would have to be computed for 75 amps. 60 at 125% That is the national code minimum if I recall. That means number 4 copper. Old and rusty electrician. Breaker also 75 amps.
 
Paul, you are wrong.# 10 wire is rated for 30 amps.#8 40 amps #6 50amps.Open wire can handle more.A lot depends on insulation type.Wrong information is bad.
 
Not an electrician but I rely on a copy of Practical Electrical Wiring by H P Richter.Theres so much wrong info on the internet .I depend on my books for correct info.The welder exception is mentioned in the 14th edition.I run a 5hp motor on my planer.Its full load rating would overload # 12 wire.Type of wood planed and sharpness of blades can vary the current drawn.If the planer was plugged into that welder outlet there would be trouble with voltage drop and overheating of wire.
 
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