OT wash stalls

I"m putting in a slab for two outdoor wash stalls for horses. I am thinking six inches will be thick enough, but am not sure how much rebar to use. Any thoughts on how close I should run them, as in how big the squares can be. I"m pouring it on a bed of #57 bluestone and will also use wire mesh.
Thanks

What size slab, pitched or sloped to a drain or surface run off ? 12" on center each way # 4 deformed bar would work, you could go up a size or 2 but unnecessary, especially if also using Woven Wire Mesh,to be honest the rebar would suffice, 4000 PSI concrete with a non slip surface.

Do be aware that concrete is porous, it has capillaries if using as a wash stall, might pay to use epoxy covered rebar, to prevent any corrosive action with the rebar, that will spall concrete in a hurry, as it expands several times its original size causing fracturing etc. used to happen on bridge decks all the time, years back, rebar to close to the surface, salt used for de-icing, and other contributing factors.

Thanks Billy, I should have mentioned it will be 12 by 20 feet. Still working out the drain detail. if I slope it I will need to do some sort of a french drain. Looking for ready made drains and havent decided on one yet. I don't want a muddy mess just off the stall.
This is in Virginia so I will have the freeze thaw thing to deal with, will one expansion joint between the two stalls be enough?

Why rebar? Concrete wire would be just as good and a whole site cheaper---

I don't see why you could not pour it as one monolithic slab, the rebar detail and expansion joint would not be a good idea, water is going to get in there. I've done a lot of concrete in the past, at 6" thick properly reinforced with 4000 psi it would appear that should hold without fracturing, but with all the other people who have done concrete, be great to hear some more comment on a fairly typical slab like this, especially for washing, and being constantly wet, horses with shoes, abrasion, I'd want 5000 PSI, (overkill but better on abrasion) They usually sawcut strategically to a certain depth to control cracking, but a stand alone slab, 12'-0" x 20'-0" would appear to expand and contract without interference whereas you need asphalt impregnated expansion board or the modern equivalent which is a better material, like rubber. I assume it will be 2 10'-0" wide stalls ? A divider and 2 separate slabs comes to mind here, as well as sides with cross ties, hitch post or something, if you pour around those, expansion joint is probably advisable. You definitely want to figure out those details prior to slab design, (divider, hitch post, side panels, and how they fasten, post in the earth, abutted by the slab or what have you) Include consideration for corrosion of these fasteners or at joints etc. materials need to stand up to that.

If you were to install it, you need to place an elastomeric sealant over it to seal up that joint from water, rebar needs to terminate with enough edge distance to cover the rebar in all directions. Mostly common sense, given a wet location, your design should encompass that so the end result performs without problems.

Forgot to mention, you'll probably rubber mat over the slab anyway, think thats what most have when dealing with concrete, horse will appreciate that sofer more giving material on top or I would think, we have an old mare who walks in the softest areas she can find when leading her to the barn or pasture.

Just to be on the safe side, I'd saw-cut it half way, into two 10' slabs. Saw-cut it 3/4" or 1 deep, as soon as I can get back on it. It will probably crack, and that will give it a nice, straight, concealed place to crack so you'll never notice it.

I made a wash reck for my daughters when they were in 4H. The wash rack has been used for horses and steers. Only horses now.I believe the secret to a strong slab is the cement used. I had the cement company mix the batch with a little more cement. I think they called it a 5 bag mix? It's been so long ago I don't know if I used any rebar. As cheap as I am, I doubt if I did. It has held up very well. Stan

When we built the wash stall for my horses, we didn"t use cement. We used the haylight(sp?) patio blocks that were 8 inches x 16 inches by 2 inches.

Smoothed the area, then laid them. Works great and much cheaper. Since they are porous, some of the water drains through, the rest runs off. Also, not as slippery as cement.

Wash stall is 12 x 12. Haven"t had any problems in nearly 20 yrs.

(quoted from post at 15:01:28 03/21/12) When we built the wash stall for my horses, we didn"t use cement. We used the haylight(sp?) patio blocks that were 8 inches x 16 inches by 2 inches.

Smoothed the area, then laid them. Works great and much cheaper. Since they are porous, some of the water drains through, the rest runs off. Also, not as slippery as cement.

Wash stall is 12 x 12. Haven"t had any problems in nearly 20 yrs.

Click to expand...

The time & money you save by going this way, you can set you up a set of heat lamps to dry them or just make an old nag comfortable......
Much easier to rip out when the fad wears out also......

I put one in 3 or 4 yrs ago, 12x10. Put a drain down the middle, front to back with a catch basin in the middle (drains bought at Home Depot). Sloped the slab (4") from either side to the center. Brushed surface from the sides toward the drain to take away slipperiness. No cracks, Lots of BIG horses been on them.