Farm truck transmission advice needed.

Mike in Mn. · Mar 12, 2012

I have a 4L60E hanging on the stand, 94 chev 4x4. It has 230,000 miles and works perfect except it does not have third gear or overdrive. I have done dozens of 350 and 400's but this is my first one of these. I have the tools for the older ones. Couple of questions. Are there any special tools that I absolutely have to have that I can't build?? Can I pull the pump and guts without pulling the valve body and the servos etc.?? I assume there is a clutch bad, but there wasn't too much crap in the pan. Or should I do a complete dis-assembly and a complete OH.?? I mean a master kit and a rebuilt converter. All advice is appreciated, thanks!!

oldtanker · Mar 12, 2012

Sounds like the sprag coupler is bad and you have to take the valve body out and the first couple of clutch packs out to get at it. This is from my Gr Goodwrench SIL. Mines doing the same thing. I'm dropping it tomorrow.

Rick

Allan in NE · Mar 12, 2012

Is reverse okay?

Allan

Fullthrottle · Mar 12, 2012

Mostly a 4l60e is a 700r4 with electric shift solenoids replaceing some of the valves in the valve body. If you've done a turbo 350 you can handle the 4l60e. The one thing I would add is if it had ANY trash in the pan replace the shift solenoids as the fine metal makes them hang and causes heartaches after a rebuild. Good luck!

26cows · Mar 12, 2012

It sound's like you have a 3-4 clutch thats bad. You have to pull the pan and remove the filter and tcc solenoid. Pull the pump, slide a screw driver between the band and housing to get the band loose from the pin. Then pull the clutch housing out. The forward clutch housing is the one with the shaft. Air check the housing befor you take it apart. 3-4 clutch is the first clutch you see, the piston is the one in the bottom of the housing. If you can rebuild a 350 or 400 you can do this one. David

Mike in Mn. · Mar 12, 2012

Got her all tore down this afternoon, did get all guts out with out removing valve body, had to remove lincage and loosen park pawl to get the last piston out of the bottom of the case. The fiber clutches were out of the I think it's called the 3-4 clutch, everything else looks really good, so I will rebuild that clutch and do a seal kit on the rest and re-assemble. I didn't pull the servo on the side but if the seals come in the kit I think I'll do that to. I plan on buying the two seal protectors that is mentioned in the recommended special tools. Thanks everyone!!

CenTex Farmall · Mar 12, 2012

I just finished going through a 700 that had the same problem; 3-4 clutch pack burned up. I ended up tearing the whole thing down as there was fine trash from the friction material in all the nooks, crannies and passage ways. All I bought was some more bushing drivers and some cheap long needlenose from harbor freight to modify for removing the snap ring from the last piston.

The rebuild kit I got from a local place had this thing called a "seal wizard" or something like that. It's basically a thin round flexible piece of plastic about the size of baloney. You use it to "walk in" the seal rings on the pistons and it protects them from snagging. On the smaller inner seals you kind of roll it up like a tortilla. I got it to work fine and the pistons all worked with an air check.

Farm truck transmission advice needed.

Mike in Mn.

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oldtanker

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Allan in NE

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Fullthrottle

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26cows

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Mike in Mn.

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CenTex Farmall

Well-known Member

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