screenings or quickcrete for endpost/brace post

getting ready to build a 6 wire high tensel fence im trying to decide to buy quickcrete for the end post and brace post or just use a fine limestone screening material once it gets wet it sets up almost like quickcrete also what do you guys think.
RICK

Screenings will work fine

Think you'll be happier with the real thing..... That almost like cement is just that "almost". The other stuff may be good enough for some midway posts but I wouldn't put it where I have to depend on it....

That's just me tho....

If you know how to do the corner bracing right, just use screenings- it will drain better and post will not rot as fast as concrete. Crummy posts these days don't last long if water can't get away.

I just use dirt, even on the corners- I can put as much stretch as I need to, and they never move.

depends on the soil
my place on the river is sugar sand--have to use long posts with quikrete.
my house is a different story--oklahoma clay--should be classified as concrete by itself-nothing extra needed

i forgot to mention im using locust post that are seasoned and about 8in diameter roughly.and 8 foot long line post are 7 footers im going to drive.we might have a dew cold mornings yet this year will that affect my fresh built braces any.?
RICK

If you're not in sandy soil just drive the post and use a larger one. Then drive your second brace post, drill the head brace holes (1/2"), cut the head brace, drive a couple of barn spikes into it, make a gusset wire and figure 8 it from the head of the brace post to the foot of the end post, and you're ready to go. I don't dig in any posts unless I absolutely have to. A driven post is tighter, doesn't normally get loose, and is quicker and easier to put in. We've got several miles of high tensile, and have learned how to run it. If you want some good ideas and a good supplier, call 1-800-KENCOVE. They'll send you a catalog that has anything you can need in fencing, and seem to be great people to work with.

soil type,how deep frost goes etc.all play a part in proper anchor/brace post. My Dad spent a good part of his life fenceing,and he would cringe at the mention of cementing in a post.Whenever possible we would "stone" in the posts.Just field stone that was picked off of any worked fields.Dad always said no dirt around post or it would rot off. The stones allow good drainage. For anchor posts we would dig hole big enuff to allow for a "foot" to be installed on the bottom of same. This was usualy done by notching near bottom of post, and driving a chunk of cedar rail into the v notch tight.If I remember right sometimes he would put this cross rail into both sides , I am guessing if size of anchor post would allow it? Posts of course always had to be deeper than the anticipated frost. From brace post a diagonal pole was slightly mortised into it and anchor post, then the hvy brace wire put on and twisted tight on the oppisite diagonal. This worked well on farms where you could actualy dig a hole, but on His ranchland limestone was close to the surface in fact someplaces it was the surface! Whole new ball game! Good brace posts where made by making a crib out of poles about 5 ft.square and filling it with rocks. Very labour intensive. I guess that is why there are so many crooked rail fences in that part of our country? Sorry I probably didnt answer much of what you asked. But thank you for allowing me to reminise about the good old days with my Dad.

I use jack posts and don't have a pulling problem.

your soil type will make a tremendous difference. Don't have any experience with sand, around here it is either heavy clay, broken rock, or solid rock. The builders here when setting wood corners like to use a 80# bag or two of fly-ash mixed with screenings and gravel. They claim as the post shrinks, the fly-ash allows the gravel and screenings to compact around the post.

I use locust post and put the big end down so it tends to sink instead of raise. As the others said, brace the corners and you will be fine. I have locust that have been in over 100 years in sandy loam and are still solid.