how much wood (thickness)??

Anonymous-0 · Jan 24, 2012

hey, just tried out my new poo blade.... kicking myself for not getting it a few years ago.... anyway.... after that positive (no manual labor ) experience, I'm looking at a 6x12ft slab with walls that I can pile the poo and back in to with my 3ph container to haul away.. Got plenty of 3/4 inch plywood OH but think something tuffer is the ticket...
1 3/4 inch ruff is available local. should this be tuff enough for 6ft spans if I don't get stupid with the tractor???

Geo-TH,In · Jan 24, 2012

Dave, Did you change your shoes?

Are you wanting to push against the walls to load the poop and support it on 6 ft centers? Weird, here plywood is 8 ft long, so why only 6 ft? 3/4 ply supported on 6 ft isn't very strong, even 1.5 on 6 ft will bow if you are using the walls to push against.

My dad concreted the cow feed lot, and dug out a place to put the spreader. Made an 4 ft concrete overhang. We pushed the poop into the spreader. Real simple design and worked well.

If I wanted to make a poop holder, I would use treated lumber and back fill the sides with dirt for added support.

George

Anonymous-0 · Jan 24, 2012

(quoted from post at 08:08:24 01/24/12) Dave, Did you change your shoes?

Are you wanting to push against the walls to load the poop and support it on 6 ft centers? Weird, here plywood is 8 ft long, so why only 6 ft? 3/4 ply supported on 6 ft isn't very strong, even 1.5 on 6 ft will bow if you are using the walls to push against.

My dad concreted the cow feed lot, and dug out a place to put the spreader. Made an 4 ft concrete overhang. We pushed the poop into the spreader. Real simple design and worked well.

If I wanted to make a poop holder, I would use treated lumber and back fill the sides with dirt for added support.

George

Can't dig..... Plywood is 8ft but was throwing the 6ft.... _Can't backfill either.....

IaGary · Jan 24, 2012

Better throw a few more posts in the ground.

I would use the 1 3/4 ruff cut.

How soupy is this stuff?

Gary

tg in VA · Jan 24, 2012

Putting a post in the middle (at the 3 ft mark) might make it less likely to bow. You could also back the plywood with a wall of 2 by lumber
(still having a post every 3 ft).

I was in a building constructed to contain chicken litter the other day and it had 6" X 6" posts every 4 ft and was then lined on the inside with tongue and groove 2 X 6's up to about 4 ft high. The idea bing that with 4 ft post spacing and 2" lumber, hitting the wall with a tractor or piece of equipment wouldn't cause the wall to give and the force of lots of chicken poop wouldn't cause the wall to bow.

paul · Jan 24, 2012

If that's all you can do, that's all you can do. Won't last forever, would sure be better at 3 foot span and hold up a long time, gonna need replacing every few years at 6 foot, but if it's all you can do then that's how it is.

--->Paul

Billy NY · Jan 24, 2012

Is this what the back blade is doing, cleaning your barn, pile to/on the deck, then pushed into your container when said pile needs to be removed? So you want to run on it with the tractor to be able to do just that, minimal labor as you say ?

A little overkill, but extra posts, shorter spans, I know doubled up (2) 2"x10" (actual) rough spruce plank is strong material, (used to be ok osha for scaffold plank til the laminated stuff did em in) I used these planks doubled up to load cars on the single axle flat bed dump, heavier ones I shored up the middle. Add 2 layers of 3/4 ply on top of some aforesaid rough cut ought to make a strong enough deck, ply is smooth with counter sunk fasteners, whatever it's on/attached to(deck), ought to be strong, withstand the weight/forces etc.

how much wood (thickness)??

Anonymous-0

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Geo-TH,In

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Anonymous-0

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IaGary

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tg in VA

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paul

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Billy NY

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