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tractor cab heater questions

K

Kow Farmer

Well-known Member
Hello everyone,
I need some advice as to the way my cab heater is heating improperly. I have a Year-A-Round aftermarket cab on my Oliver 1850 gas tractor.
I flushed the heater core that is in the cab ceiling with a water hose. Lots of disgusting black water came out. I hooked up the water heater hoses again, the water is circulating through the hoses but just not "up" into the cab heater core. Is there something I am missing? The water control valve is in working condition also, as I took it off to see if the pull cable was working to open or close it, and it does. This heater has worked poorly since I bought the tractor a year ago. I replaced the blower moter very recently and it blows air very well, just not warm air. I would like to keep the windows defrosted when I blow snow in Winter especially. I appreciate any advice or comments. Thank you.
Kow Farmer
 
The instructions on my NH tractor say that you are supposed to open the water valve fully and run the engine at high idle to fill the heater core. Then shut the valve off and fill the radiator full. You"ll know that the heater is filled when you get some heat out of it.
 
I forgot to mention that I did run the tractor at low idle for maybe 15 minutes or so at 800-900 rpm's. The radiator is full and coolant is circulating in there also. Thanks again everyone.
Kow Farmer
 
On the 4230 I had the temp control valve in the cab would not close completely tight, allowing some water to seep past even in summer so the guy before me put a valve in the hose right down by water pump. You then could shut off all water circulation to heater core. Check to see if you don't have a "master" valve in the line somewhere.
 
Splice a section of clear hose temporarily into the hose that flows up to the cab. There's no need to cut the hose, just pull it off the barb at the engine or water pump and Start the tractor and see what's in the hose. If there's a lot of air in the hose you probably have a head gasket problem. Had a 4650 Deere with the same symptoms a year ago. The shop foreman spliced a clear hose into the heater hose and saw air. Then he gave me the dreaded news. Jim
 
After you pull the hose off the barb at the engine or water pump THEN SPLICE IN THE CLEAR HOSE AND PUSH THE CLEAR HOSE ON THE BARB AT THE ENGINE OR WATER PUMP. I forgot to say that. Gotta hit the sack. Been a long day. Jim
 
As previously stated, the wrong hose connections.We see all the time somebody tapping in on the top and bottom of the engine and expect coolant flow.
Supply the heater core from a port just prior to the stat(s). Return coolant to the inlet side of the water pump.
Connecting the heater core supply to the water pump outlet or low on the engine block? Well duh, that coolant has been cooled from just returning from the rad in the winter time.
 
You may have a air bubble and you may have to burp it . make sure that you have the cooling system full and run the tractor at around 12-1400 RPM and get it up to operating temp . Then you just loosen the hose clamp before the valve and with a small Phillips screw driver - scribe - hook tool what ever slide it between the hose and the valve nipple till ya get coolant to leak past , then tighten up the clamp and you should have heat. Every year i go thru this on the skid steer heater and had to do the same thing on my buddy's 966 .
 
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