Adding Doors to a Pole Barn

Rock_Picker(MO) · Dec 31, 2011

It"s open on one side. Openings are all 11" high. Bays are the following sizes:
1) 15"-9-1/2"
2) 12"-0-1/2"
3) 10"-0"
4) 9"-10"

Would like to use "sliding doors". I think two (2) tracks would be required. Has anyone here done this? Did you do the work yourself or use a contractor?

Would appreciate hearing of experiences and recommendations.

fixerupper · Dec 31, 2011

Round poles or square? If round are they straight or bowed? Do you want it bird tight? My idea would be to have the 15' and 10' doors on the inside the the other two on the outside. New track is $$$$. If you are using all new materials to make the rolling doors you might get by cheaper if you can get lucky and find some used steel uninsulated doors. Takes some work framing up for them but you'll have some work involved with rolling doors too. Just an idea. I'm doing the same thing as you but with three 12' openings with the center one being closed in permanently. One opening will have an overhead door and the other opening will be either sliding or overhead if I can find a cheap used one, and it WILL be bird tight. Jim

fixerupper · Dec 31, 2011

That's "used steel uninsulated OVERHEAD doors". I forgot an important word in my post. Jim

Anonymous-0 · Dec 31, 2011

i HATE my sliding doors. I'll never do that again.

gene bender · Dec 31, 2011

Why dont you give some lube and cleaning to them. Mine work well after 30 pluss yrs

Goose · Dec 31, 2011

I had a 10 wide by 12 high sliding door on my shop at first.

I got so dammed sick and tired of snow and ice buildup on the bottom sticking it shut in the winter, and having to pour hot water all across the bottom just to get it open to get a vehicle in or out I finally replaced it with a 10X10 insulated steel overhead door. Plus the sliding door never did seal against snakes or anything else that wanted to get into the shop.

Every time I open the overhead door, I thank all of the Gods known to man for not having to fight with that stupid sliding door.

GordoSD · Dec 31, 2011

I have two doors on my shop. 8x16 and 12 x16. They are overheads. They are insulated shimmed, gasketed, caulked. They keep the cold Manitoba Clipper storms out. They are not bird tight, but are fly tight. I turn all the lights on every fall and check for light leaks at midnight.

paul · Jan 1, 2012

Run the track the full length on the outside.

Pick one door, probbly the biggest, or close to the biggest if on one end, and run a track 2x that length inside. This door goes on the inside, other doors can park in it's place on the outside.

Note the inner sliding door is going to take almost a foot away from your shed depth on both bays, if you pack as tight as some of us do that foot will be noticable.

--->Paul

Mel in SW Iowa · Jan 1, 2012

Three years ago I added a 4' x 8' sliding door to each end of an old 14' x 43' wooden grain bin so that I could store and feed small square bales out of it. The inside wooden floor is 10" off the ground plus sitting on railroad ties, so I haven't had any trouble with the bottom of these doors yet. I bought the top track, roller door hangers, bottom track, and bottom roller guides from Menard's in Council Bluffs and none of these four hardware elements match each other
dimensionally when used to hang a sheet of 3/4"
marine plywood for a sliding door with 1/8" clearance on a framed 2x6 opening. I believe the
main problem is that my doors aren't thick enough
for the roller sets but Menard's problem is that
all four elements are from a different manufacturer. The roller sets rub on the framing
until I adjust the top of one of the doors for a 1/2" gap at the top of one roller set. The other style roller set allows me to adjust to a 1/4" gap at the top of the door. Maybe there are
better places to buy sliding door hardware??

prawnfarmer · Jan 1, 2012

If you want the entire sidewall to have sliding doors ($$$), a double track is required. Check out Cannonball, Plyco, or Harvard track systems - I"ve used and sold all in the past. Using their extruded side rail/steel girts makes for a really easy sliding, non-warping door. Track cover will help make them bird resistant, however,with open doors in the summer they fly in anyway. A couple of plastic hawks hanging around do wonders there. Any independent, local lumberyard should be able to come up with a material list and cost. Nice thing about sliders is you keep most of your headroom versus overhead doors that require headers.

TedinNE · Jan 1, 2012

Have a pole barn with An 11'W x 8' high door. Did not have room for a roll up door. Bought a good used overhead door. Took the rails that the door rolls up in & put the inside above the door opening. Two rails spaced for a dolly & used the origional rollers with the dollys bolted to the top of the door. Put a 1/8'x2"x2" angle on each end of the door to stiffen the door. Rolls inside works very well. No wind or snow problems, Seals with a normal overhead door seals on edges & top Have pipe for the bottom wiper to seal. Only paid $90.00 for the door complete.

Case e · Jan 1, 2012

Menards has gone to just one supplier now (as I just thursday at the same store) picked up track, hardware, and a door kit for my pole shed. They seem to work nicely with adjustment up and down as well as in and out on the trollies.

Duner Wi · Jan 1, 2012

Maybe alternate inside door and then outside door.
I like the inside doors where snow builds up. Just a thought.

Adding Doors to a Pole Barn

Rock_Picker(MO)

Member

fixerupper

Well-known Member

fixerupper

Well-known Member

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member

gene bender

Well-known Member

Goose

Well-known Member

GordoSD

Well-known Member

paul

Well-known Member

Mel in SW Iowa

Member

prawnfarmer

Member

TedinNE

Member

Case e

Member

Duner Wi

Well-known Member

Similar threads