Re OT winch on trailer

I want to thank everyone for your comments on the winch. I will have to get a handle made for it so now I know the size. There is a bolt welded on so I will hook it up to something heavy and use the drill to see if it will work before I buy a inverter. The other option that I have is I have a 3500 watt gen. set that I could haul around and use that. So everyone again THANKS FOR ALL THE INFORMATION

Bob

Youre most welcome, thanks for the feedback. Yeppers hook up that drill to regular home 120 VAC and hang that winch cable onto a good actual load (truck etc) and see how it pulls ESPECIALLY if you try to pull it up some trailer loading ramps. It might be good to take a look at how many amps the drill is pulling when under an actual heavy incline load and then you reallyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy know what size of inverter or genset youre gonna need.

HOWEVER I have this "vision" when you put a good load on her an inverter thats not high enough rated OOOOOOOORRRRRRRR an undersized genset OR THE DRILL ITSELF is gonna poop out lol HOPE NOT

If you were to figure 1 HP = 746 watts that drill may have (No warranty NOT exact just an approximation) say 1 HP yet the DC winch I have uses an automotive 12 volt starter that draws maybe 200 amps or 2400 watts and thats like three times the HP youre trying to use I WOULDNT HOLD MY BREATH IF YOU TRY TO WINCH A HEAVY TRUCK UP A SET OF LOADING RAMPS

Best wishes and Merry CHRISTmas

John T

Maybe this will help you on making the handle. DH

Any motor can run it if geared right, but not at the speed you want. That's the key.

For what you want, a DC gear-motor makes more sense then a 3500 generator. That being said, the right inverter will work fine.

A decent 1000 watt inverter will have a 3000 watt surge rating and run your 6 amp drill fine - even if you lock it up.

A typical factory made 5 ton winch with a 150 amp DC motor or 15 amp AC motor is geared 265 to 1. NOT 24 to 1 like your winch.

You DO realize that your Beebe winch sells new right now for near $2000. You could probably sell it for $500 and buy an electric winch.

The downside to electric motors is they are not mainstream and are pricey. I just bought new 1/3 horse reversible DC motor and it cost me $150 and that was a bargain price.

This would work with moderate loads but I doubt it's worth the price unless you an find a DC gear motor used.

<a href="http://s104.photobucket.com/albums/m162/jdemaris/?action=view&amp;current=gearmotor.jpg" target="_blank"></a>

If you're missing the handle, are you missing the low-range pinion gear also? If so, that winch won't be of much use. Beebe gets near $400 for new handles with the gear.

The picture in his first post shows the low speed pinion . Looks as if someone just removed the sliding flatbar handle and welded a bolt on the end of the gear.

I got confused as to who's picture was who's. Mabye his was in another post?

Just to make certain you dont go out and buy just ANY old motor, the statement:

"ANY motor can run it if geared right, but not at the speed you want. That's the key"

I'm sure youre aware not just ANY motor will work, it still has to have enough HP to overcome the friction heat energy losses of those winch gears PLUS enough additional HP to pull whatever load you place on the winch. Obviously a small dinky 1/20 HP hobby motor (thats ANY motor) may not even be able to turn the winch even if no load at all were placed on it.

While gearing down decreases output RPM and increases torque (HP is a function of Torque X RPM) ALL THE GEARS LOOSE ENERGY IN THE FORM OF HEAT and the more gears the more friction losses. When you put energy INTO a reduction gearbox you get less energy out because its NOT 100% efficent with frictionless gears.

Similar to what I posted below, if your drill produces say 1 HP, it cant provide the winch pull a higher HP motor like our friend JD was kind enough to show you

I reallyyyyyyyyy like the DC gearmotor (JD posted) or a DC starting type motor (like on my Winch) approcach, its feasible, affordable, has more HP then your drill, is already 12 VDC, AND NO NEED FOR INVERTERS OR A GENSET

I say go for a DC motor (Versus inverters or gensets) if the drill dont suit your needs which I doubt

Thanks LJD and 2710 FUN CHAT I hope it works out for you

God Bless and Merry CHRISTmas to both of you and all here

John T Enjoy helpin and this fun sparky chat

Come on! My use of the word "any" is assuming some reasonable latitude and common sense here.

The power needed is figured with pull-power AND pull-in speed in mind. A 300 watt 1/4" drill could pull 5000 lbs. if geared down low enough. But it would be so slow you'd hardly see the cable move. In theory, you COULD use almost any size motor IF geared low enough, be it 200 to 1 or 20,000 to 1.

Now if my pet flea has a model airplane with a motor considered small by flea standards - yeah . . . perhaps it would not even have the power to overcome friction on moving parts - pulling NO weight.

So yeah, maybye your wrist-watch lacks motor enough to run a 5000 lb. winch, but I assume most know that's not what I meant.

GREAT CHAT, THANKS, I hope were helping the others with all this. Not a problem my friend, I figured you knew that, NOTICE I ADDRESSED MY COMMENT TO 2710 so he wouldnt think just "any" motor would suffice, because it simply, as Im sure you understand, will NOT.

My statement if modeled after yours to 2710 would read something more like:

In theory, you COULD use "almost" any size motor IF geared low enough SO LONG AS AND PROVIDED THAT it has enough HP to overcome the heat and friction loses of the winch just to turn it PLUSSSSSSSSSSSS enough additional HP to pull the actual load........

If you had a 1/20 HP hobby motor and I dont care if you tried to gear it down 100 to 1 or 1000 to 1, it may or may not even turn the winch let alone pull any load. IT TAKES X HP TO TURN ALL THOSE HEAVY GEARS. The gear reduction mechanism uses up some of the motors HP. Its true you may have more TORQUE by gearing down, but at the expense of RPM and HP is a function of Torque X RPM, you gain on one but loose on the other PLUS you get less out then you put in because the friction of the gears converts some of the input energy into wasted heat......

As an example, ever notice or wonder why old tractors were often rated as X HP on the Belt Pulley but LESS THEN X HP on the drawbar ?????? Thats beacsue it took HP to turn all those big heavy gears (friction heat loss) so you has LESS HP remaining on the drawbar.

Sure, most probably know what you meant and Im sure you understand the above, but hey if we can together by discusing this help 2710 or even one other person understand something about gear reduction and friction heat loss WE DID A GOOD JOB AND OUR GOOD DEED

Thanks again and God Bless you for all you do to help and contribute on here, I hope this helps other, but if not at least were havin fun lol

Merry CHRISTMAS

John T