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95 Chev Tahoe suspension disassembly problems

O

old

Well-known Member
Location
Camdenton Missouri
Got one here I am fixing for a friend. He did a ditch thing which to start out with broke the rear axle which I have not fixed but it also bent to lower control arm and torsion bar. Well tried to pull the torsion bar today which should be a simple pull out once the tension is let loose the the control arm is dropped but heck no it will not let loose. I have a com-a-long and a 4 ton port-ta-power sitting on it right now and it will not let loose as it should. I know it should be a simple pull out put back in but this one is not doing so. Front wheel was pushed back about 2 inches on that side so it seems jammed.
So how do I get it apart so I can fix this??
Thanks
 
I v never had one out on a GM but Chy had a tool that clamped around the bar(two piece bolted together)and you drove them out with a big hammer.
 
Rich, Can you jack the lower control arm to relieve pressure then remove the control arm by seperating the ball joint? Disassembly can be really tricky on bent parts. They can store a lot of energy waiting for you to disassemble. Gerard
 
Be careful with that thing.

Don't want something coming apart in a hurry and yankin' an arm off or worse. :>(

Allan
 
I have the lower control arm loose no nothing holding it any place other then the torsion bar which should just slip right out but is not giving. I have the port-a-power and a com-a-long pulling forward on it and it will not move. In theory it should just slip out as easy as taking a socket off a nut but guess he jammed it real good and figure the key as I was told it is call may need to be replace so may end up cutting th key off and putting on a new one
 
Chances are the torsion bas is rusted into the pocket in the control arm. I usually get them out with a torch and a big big hammer.
 
Wish is was simple rust but it looks to good to be rust. This guy wrecked it real well and even broke the rear axle off and the control arm on it and all where pushed back by at least 3 inches so I'm thinking he twisted things hard enough to have jammed it up real good
 
On a buddies truck the TB was rusted so solid in the control arm that we had to cut the TB with a torch and leave part of it still in the control arm. Replaced both the arm and the TB.
 
I will be replacing both the torsion bar and the control arm but so far not able to pull it out of what is called the key which is the lever that you use to adjust spring tension. If I could get it free from the key I would have it made but not go as of yet and that is with a 4 ton push and a com-a-long pulling on it at the same time
 
Oo its stuck in the key. Good luck. I'll bet that its just rusted in. I've parted out a couple dozen 88-98 chevy pickups and the tb is almost always rusted into the key. Lots of heat with a oxy/acy torch and a large hammer and punch to drive it forward into the control arm are what usually does the job.
 
On a 2 door Tahoe there is not enough room between 2 cross members to use a punch and the key is cast iron and I'll not heat it due to the fact doing so can cause it to brake if it was to be reused as was the plan but looks more like I'll have to cut/brake it to get the torsion bar out
 
Should be able to pickup a used key for free. Many people replace the factory keys with ford keys to allow them to be indexed more, allowing for more front lift. So there are tons of factory keys around.
 
Not in my area and so far the only ones I have found are $140 and those are for a 2 inch lift which this kid does not need or want. Biggest problem with this Tahoe is the fat it is the 2 door and parts are hard to come by for a 2 door but common for the 4 door
 
All of the front suspension components on a 2 door are the exact same as a 88-98 chevy pickup or suburban. TB's are 54" long.

The 4 door tahoes have the same front suspension, just have shorter 52" torsion bars and the torsion bar crossmember is different as it is mounted with wishbone links and rubber bushings.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-2008-GM-Chevrolet-Truck-Torsion-Bar-Keys-OEM-New-/140535980227?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3AChevrolet&vxp=mtr&hash=item20b898e0c3

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-2008-CHEVROLET-TRUCK-TORSION-BAR-KEYS-OEM-/160418638653?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2559b22b3d
 
(quoted from post at 23:01:10 12/16/11) On a 2 door Tahoe there is not enough room between 2 cross members to use a punch and the key is cast iron and I'll not heat it due to the fact doing so can cause it to brake if it was to be reused as was the plan but looks more like I'll have to cut/brake it to get the torsion bar out
Click to expand...

Old, that key should be a foraging, not cast iron.
 
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