A buddy of mine just picked up a farmall 450 that needs a clutch, come to find out, the torque amplifier is out too. We will be splitting the tractor this Saturday to get the clutch replaced and it seems that while we"re that far in, we"d might as well fix the TA as well. I have no experience with TA"s at all, is it simply another clutch that needs to be replaced? With the tractor split to replace the clutch, will we have easy access to the TA or will we need to split it further back? Any advice would be most appreciated.
- Thread starter Dan W MN
- Start date
Janicholson
Well-known Member
Split both for and Aft of TA. $ items are likely to be needed (unless the TA gears are toast, unlikely).
TA clutch. (looks like a small regular Organic disk)
TA throwout bearing. (pressure plate is probably OK.
TA ramp and Roller one way Clutch. On the rear of the unit. (probably what failed)
Seals and Hytran fluid.
There is a good Video on the topic available here (I think)
Kevin Meier, who visits here often, sells components that are reliable. Hy Capacity is a good supplier as well. Jim.
TA clutch. (looks like a small regular Organic disk)
TA throwout bearing. (pressure plate is probably OK.
TA ramp and Roller one way Clutch. On the rear of the unit. (probably what failed)
Seals and Hytran fluid.
There is a good Video on the topic available here (I think)
Kevin Meier, who visits here often, sells components that are reliable. Hy Capacity is a good supplier as well. Jim.
just another old geezer
Member
rebuilt torques are $$$$. If it is major, consider a torque eleminator.
Which side is out? Low side means it needs ramp and rollers. High side means it needs a TA clutch. Ramp and rollers require a second split. TA clutch can be replaced without another split.
If it works in high now, it will work in high pretty much forever. Just don't pull the lever and you'll be fine. Pulling the lever won't hurt anything, you just won't go anywhere.
I think a rebuilt TA is around $700. Leaman in PA is the TA king IMHO.
You can replace just the ramp and rollers, or just the TA clutch for much less than that. But you also have bearings and such that may need replacing too, necessitating tearing the tractor down a second time. A rebuilt unit takes care of all that in one fell swoop.
The "torque eliminator" kits are at least half that much, and tough to find in my experience.
No TA hurts the value of the tractor though, both in $$$ and in usefulness.
Fix it once today, and it'll outlast your grandchildren.
If it works in high now, it will work in high pretty much forever. Just don't pull the lever and you'll be fine. Pulling the lever won't hurt anything, you just won't go anywhere.
I think a rebuilt TA is around $700. Leaman in PA is the TA king IMHO.
You can replace just the ramp and rollers, or just the TA clutch for much less than that. But you also have bearings and such that may need replacing too, necessitating tearing the tractor down a second time. A rebuilt unit takes care of all that in one fell swoop.
The "torque eliminator" kits are at least half that much, and tough to find in my experience.
No TA hurts the value of the tractor though, both in $$$ and in usefulness.
Fix it once today, and it'll outlast your grandchildren.
You may not have to worry about a second split if you use your head. If you use some parrafin wax to hold the rollers in place when you put the tractor back together, it will go back very nicely without a bench job. The, all you have to do, is start the tractor up, and let it warm up good. The parrafin will melt out and release the rollers, and your TA is back in business. We did it on a 350, and the old IH guy down the road swore it wouldn't work, but he has done quite a few since.
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