Pole Barn prints / ideas

I'm in the process of getting building supplys to build a barn.Township will only let me build the sq ft of the house foot print. In my case 1300 sqft. I was thinking on a 30x40 with a 10x10 room on the side for man cave and to display my collectables. Does anybody have a building print of a old barn that I can copy. Due to money I will be building my self with friends over time. I have a friend with a saw mill and could get rough saw lumber at a great deal but worried about it being not kiln dried. And lastly any ideas you have on what you would do over if you could. I know I want a good bench but not to big to be a catch all,outlets every 8-10',concrete floor,loft& maybe running water for a sink for the shop and bar err... I mean man cave.

Spend some money on some I-beam to sink in the concrete and overhead to hang a chainfall on.

Was thinking of that but slightly different. round post on ends I beam across with wheels on one side so it will store flat aganist the wall.

The neighbor added a wing on his shop for monkying around with lawnmowers and such. He took an old disc frame and stood that on end in the concrete for an arch. Works great and didn't cost him a thing. Lots of ways of doing it,as long as you do something.

If I could go no bigger then a 30' X 40' footprint, I'd make it 2 1/2 story. Not hard to do with pole barn. I have one here that I built myself that is 28' X 40' Has two full floors, then an attic with lots of storage space, and a 4th with a small bedroom (not exactly legal to call it a 4th floor). 2nd floor has a 1918 Ford Model T parked in it. Also has a full bath-shower.
I made "Dutch Barn" style trusses for the roof structure.

And I later put a few single story additions for more shop space. I find that nothing is ever big enough.

Has running water, hot water, wood furnace heat with an old 1948 Firestone oil furnace for backup. Has a 100 amp service that comes from the main panel in my house. All I need for welding and power tools.

I set all the poles by myself (and my backhoe). My wife helped me mix and pour the concrete floor.

In regard to the rough sawn lumber - it's getting to be a problem around here in central NY. Some inspectors (if they actually look) are asking for grade stamps on any lumber used for structural support. In your case, that would be the rafters or material to make trusses. Few mills making rough lumber pay for grading - at least not around here.

In my area now rough green lumber cost more then kiln dried S-P-F at the lumber yard or Home Depot.
And all our rough lumber is white pine or hemlock. White pine is way too weak for structural stuff and hemlock can be "iffy."

Front . .

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Back . .

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Now that's a nice looking barn. I have thought of doing the gambrel style just for the storage or made into the man cave/entertaining area. I know just enough about building to get me in trouble,so I was thinking the kiss motto[keep it simple stupid] . I do have help that are builders but have limited time to help. All the rough sawen lumber is hard wood.

I built an overhead pivoting hoist, using 8 inch pipe and 12 inch I beam. One pipe is in 3 feet of concrete, the other one has I beam underneath with wheels, swings 90 deg. Also consider putting in floor anchors. I used 1 inch shaft, bent in a U, and set in 3 feet concrete. Boxed in so flush with floor level.

Now that's something I've never seen or heard of before - hardwood framing lumber. I suspect it will be murder to nail into once dry. What species?

Maybe I better ask - what are you calling "hardwood?" It has several meanings. It can mean anything deciduous and can also mean anything beyond a certain density. Southern Yellow Pine is technically a softwood since it's a conifer but can be as hard and strong as Red Oak.

I've tried to build with rough hemlock which is also a conifer, but once dry it's near impossible to get nails through it without splitting.

It would be red oak . I just wonder about twisting and racking while it dry's out. My friend saws a lot of slab wood and post so I can get a deal on less than pretty wood but sound wood.

Don't know if cost to heat is a factor for you. It is a big factor here and I made it affordable by having an insulated inner room inside the main building which is 40x50x17. The inner room is 16x22x10 so I can fit any tractor in. I keep it at 50* then bump it up if needed. The main part stays at 40* unless more heat is needed. heat bill was $350.00 last year.

Even with a standard pole barn, just go up,16 ft high and that will leave room for an upstairs with head room underneath.

Movable end is an inverted "T", and perfect place to mount my HM 30 ton press on one side, and a Hossfeld bender on the other side of the pipe. If you use a long I beam on the bottom, make sure you mount the wheels at an angle, enough so each axle points straight to the pivot end. Otherwise the assembly scuffs as you move it. My wheels don"t pivot- I made them out of slices of 6 inch pipe with half inch cookies for centers, and welded under the I beam.

Hey JD ,

I like the monitor top ice box in the first

photo, Had one in the house where I roomed

going to college.

george

BTW the gas in those is deadly.