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OT--Cutting--Welding Metal

J

Jiles

Well-known Member
I need to modify another wood burning insert that is in my shop.
I am guessing the firebox metal, 1/4" thick, is "boiler plate" ?? and I think the high temperature changes the metal.
I have found that the plate steel is hard to burn--metal seems to spurt out to the sides---which leaves a very raggid cut.
Also welding with several different type rods and mig welding with fluxcore wire, gives a very unattractive weld. (chewing gum???) even after thoroughly grinding and cleaning the metal.
I am experienced with cutting and welding, but definately not professional.
I guess my question is---what can be done to the metal, if anything, to help this situation?
 
First thing you have to do is identify what you have. Use a grinder spark test . You can find a chart of different grinding sparks on line or in most welding books. Grind and watch then check the chart. Each type of steel and iron makes a different spark pattern.It gets you pretty close but there are many alloys.
 
i ran into that on a set of grates,..weldshop said all the carbon had been burned out of it..had to replace
 
(quoted from post at 20:45:26 10/28/11) i ran into that on a set of grates,..weldshop said all the carbon had been burned out of it..had to replace
Click to expand...
That's what I am thinking. It's like trying to burn or weld cast iron only not as bad. Just takes a lot of grinding and redoing.
 
I have tried 1/8 and 5/32--680 with a little better luck. Would your suggestion work better?
 
What are 680 rods? You could try a 309 or even
better a 312 stainless rod. The 312 are made for
welding difficult to weld or unknown base metals
such as spring steel and tool steel. You might be
able to get a couple sample rods from a specialty
supplier like Eutectic. A specialty supplier may
have just the right rod for your application as
well. Look on the Eutectic Castolin website. If
you find what you're looking for, there should be
cross reference charts for similar rods from other
suppliers.
 
YOU HAVE THAT BACKWARD.Cast iron grates end up with a lot of carbon on the surface.Hard to draw an arc on carbon.
 
(quoted from post at 23:37:15 10/29/11) YOU HAVE THAT BACKWARD.Cast iron grates end up with a lot of carbon on the surface.Hard to draw an arc on carbon.
Click to expand...

I am referring to a stainless welding rod Eutectic 680. The metal is probably cold rolled steel--not cast iron---and I think the heat changes the metal.
 
Was the heater originally welded? It sounds like it
might be a mixture of a cast iron type material and
steel or possibly stainless steel. SA516-70 is the
most common boiler plate but I doubt it would be
used for a wood burning heater. It has a lot of mill
scale but welds pretty much the same as normal mild
steel. The heat might affect the steel but it won't
burn the carbon out. Steel is heated red hot for
bending and forming all the time.
 
(quoted from post at 04:40:47 10/30/11) Was the heater originally welded? It sounds like it
might be a mixture of a cast iron type material and
steel or possibly stainless steel. SA516-70 is the
most common boiler plate but I doubt it would be
used for a wood burning heater. It has a lot of mill
scale but welds pretty much the same as normal mild
steel. The heat might affect the steel but it won't
burn the carbon out. Steel is heated red hot for
bending and forming all the time.
Click to expand...
I have done this modification to three different type wood burning inserts. One was an Appalachian--one was a Buck and one was a Squire.
I had this problem with all three and all seemed to be made of mild steel.
Because of the problems I had, I am reluctant to do another.
I am just wondering if preheating the and welding--like cast iron--might help.
 
(quoted from post at 18:56:22 10/28/11) Try a few sticks of Ni-rod, Nickel based rod. It welds things that have no business being welded. Jim
Click to expand...

thanks for the advice.. I guess I try this...
 
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