Tractor storage

37chief · Oct 25, 2011

With my mowing, and discing over for 6 months, My tractors will sit covered up outside. No snow here only rain. Should I start them every month or so for a minute to keep things lubed. or just leve them be. I know this has probably been covered in the past, but I must have missed it. Stan

evilboweivel · Oct 25, 2011

let them sit

WJD · Oct 25, 2011

I put some fuel stabilizer in the tank and let it run for a few mim. I know some people drain the carb. but this worked for me on the fuel side.

Then remove the spark plugs and pump abour 3 shots of oil in each the cylinders. Then crank the engine over to distribute the oil.

Finally, I remove batteries and place them on a board (I don't know if using a board does any good) in the basement.

sotxbill · Oct 25, 2011

if you start them, you must run them till they are hot, or you will get moisture in the oil and cause all types of problems. so either run them for an hour or dont run them at all. Use a really good hd oil that is loaded with a high tbn(total base number) so it will fight the acid build up from sitting. All of the hd oils have this additive.

Mike (WA) · Oct 25, 2011

If they're gas, add stabil or seafoam to the gas, let them run a few minutes to get it through the carb, and if you're going to start them and use them in the spring, probably just let them sit over the winter. Diesel, don't do anything. Seals will not dry out in that length of time, and there's no need making life any more complicated than it needs to be.

When you cover them, make the cover like a tent, and leave a foot or two open at the bottom. I put in 4 steel posts at the corners, and secure the cover to the posts a foot or so from the ground. Don't put the cover over and secure it to the ground- That will keep the moisture in, and do damage. A tent, with breathing room at the bottom, is far better.

showcrop · Oct 25, 2011

I will second about the battery don't put it on concrete and either top off the battery every few weeks or put a tender on it. I will also second about ventilation. A friend covered his tight in plastic and he got a lot of damage from condensation.

Kestrel in CT · Oct 25, 2011

Don't forget about the mice ! I'd throw a bunch of mothballs around under the hood, especially in the battery box.

Around here they love to chew on the insulation on the cables til its gone.

LenND · Oct 25, 2011

Mine is stored inside of a building so no covers. I like to leave it about half full of gas. Then shut the gas valve off and unhook the battery ground cable and that's it. No additives or anything but it wouldn't hurt to use some I don't. I usually start mine once or twice in the winter too.

Sid · Oct 25, 2011

Got out my WD owners manual just for kicks. What it has.
ELECTRICAL
"In event the tractor is not to be used for some time , it is advisable to remove the battery, have it fully charged and stored in a dry basement or some similar place where temperature is to be as low as possible, but above freezing."

In the section ,STORAGE OF TRACTOR, it says "TRACTOR PROTECTION IS POCKET-BOOK PROTECTION. It gives 8 recomendations
1. Store tractor under cover. If impossible, be sure to cover air stack and exhaust pipe.

2.Drain radiator and engine block.

3.to avoid gum content collections, drain both fuel tanks and carburetor

4.Leave radiator and fuel caps slightly loose to protect gaskets.

5.Block tractor up to remove weight from tires and to keep tires from contact with moist floor.

6.Remove battery and store as recomended under "Battery".

7.Remove spark plugs and pour a small quamtity of light motor oil on piston tops. Crank engine over a few times and replace spark plugs.

8.When tractor is removed from storage it should be serviced throught, including draining and refilling oile sump with fresh oil.

Janicholson · Oct 25, 2011

With respect, Concrete has no bad relationship to
batteries today. Old battery cases had rubber cases
made with cotton string reinforcement. THe string
would leak acid and make a connection between the
cells discharging them. Most batteries sit on a
metal box floor which is even more conductive than
concrete. Electricity has no way to get through the
plastic of a modern battery. Jim

Ultradog MN · Oct 25, 2011

In a perfect world all old tractors would get to winter over in a dry shed.
But some of them have to live in the ghetto and get no cover at all. In snow country here it would take a pretty substantial "tent" to keep the snow from collapsing it.
I do drive mine through the winter to move snow. So when I start it it gets a pretty good workout.
But I've also left them unprotected all winter and when the snow finally melted in the spring fired them right up and drove them off.
It's tough on a tractor but probably not as tough as a snug fitting, rust causing tarp over the thing.

Wayne in MN · Oct 25, 2011

I second the motion.
During the off season, I keep my batteries in an un-heated garage on a bench and make sure they are clean, dry, and charged. I usually hook up the trickle charger once a month or so. Most of the batteries are 5-6 years old & going strong.

Nebraska Cowman · Oct 25, 2011

Cotton string. Thanks Jim. I knew there had to be something to that old wives tale as it still surfaces from time to time.

Nebraska Cowman · Oct 25, 2011

I would not mess with starting it. i believe that does more harm than good.

toolz · Oct 25, 2011

I spend some time on a boating forum, and it's just crazy how fanatical these guys get over winterizing their boats. I have one that sat in an unheated shed for 3 years, and other than making sure it didn't freeze, it just sat. I charged the batteries and hit the key. Purrs like a kitten (454 Chev) even with the 3 year old gas. As far as the tractors go, I shut them off when I park them, and start them up when I need them.

NEKS · Oct 25, 2011

Never get them ready for winter. Never know when the feed tractor won't start and need to get the other one Just park them in a dry shed.

Bob M · Oct 25, 2011

My tractors winter over in an open shed. I shut off the gas and let the engine run until the carb runs dry, then disconnect the ground cable at the battery. (I leave the batteries right in 'em.)

Unless I'm gonna use one to push snow or skid logs, they'll sit unstarted all winter long (3 - 4 months). They'll then fire right up again the following spring. I probably should add some Stabil or similar to the gas in the tank, but have never actually done it. So far no problems with gas going stale over the winter.

Mike in Mn. · Oct 25, 2011

I packed my shed for Winter yesterday, I just shut them off hot, turn off gas and let the carb run dry and unhook the battery neg, can over the exhaust to keep the riff-raff out, all but two wont move for 6 months. I don't do it but it wouldn't hurt to block the clutch pedal down, I did have a clutch stick once but it came loose pretty easy.

Anonymous-0 · Oct 26, 2011

I would let it sit.I would bring the battery inside the house. Cold weather is hard on batteries even if they are not being used.

Do what others have said but also leave the 3 point in the raised position(with no attachments on it)-that way the hydraulic cylinder stays full of oil.

If a gas tractor I would pull the spark plugs and put a few squirts of oil into each engine cylinder so the rings don't stick to the cylinder

nickg · Oct 26, 2011

I dont know if you have any diesel tractors but I keep all my diesel tractors full of fuel before we park them for the year. With the rise and fall of temps sometimes you can get an algae in your fuel and it becomes a real nightmare. Had that happen one time and on of the mechanics suggested to keep tractors and equipment we dont use in the winter full. I like to disconnect the battery cables on everything we dont use much in the winter time and the tractors we do use some in the winter I keep a battery maintainer on that keeps them charged. I do go out and start them everyonce and a while and let them run a bit just to make sure I dont have any issues for when i do need one of them.

nickg · Oct 26, 2011

Also dont be suprised if in the spring you go to change the oil and get a little water come out first. Its from condensation from the temps goin up and down.

Hill-Billy Rock-Star · Oct 26, 2011

IF its gas fill fuel tank of fuel with stabil in it and fog the engine with foging oil when running threw the carb till she stalls out. Take the plugs out and use foging oil in the cyl."s replace the plugs. Change the engine oil and filter, check the frezze point of the coolant. Cover the exhaust. Remove the battery and take inside. Should be go to go.

Mark - IN. · Oct 26, 2011

Stan,

You live in California, right? Start them and let them run a good few minutes. Charge the battery, heat things up. Heck, now that I think about it, if you don't get snow, I'd drive them around in a circle or two. I get snow, plenty of it and even some sub-zero days in Indiana, but mine are barned. They at least get started and run on weekends. A couple even back blade the drive and road. Those are days when I wish I had an enclosed cab. A couple of years ago I drove one up to the Deere guy to have new tires put on it. A hand full of miles, about zero out and real windy. My sister followed me in a pickup. I stopped a couple of times to hop in and warm up. Was brutal. That was brutal. The Deere guy watched me tool up to the shop from his heated office window, then asked me if I was out of my mind, and wanted to trade in on a new one with a nicely heated comfort cab. My lips were frozen shut so I couldn't say No Thanks.

Good luck.

Mark

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