STEERING ARM REPAIR

WHAT’S UP GUYS:

I have been asked to fix this, All he wants it to wield the top like it was done before; I have told the owner that the reason it did not work the first time is because there is way to much stress in that one area, and it will never hold.

I told him he would be better off to replace the spindle and the steering arm and do it right. His answer was how much I replied depending where you get your parts
Will depend on how much it will cost: I told him if you buy new parts, the will cost about
$450.00 to $600.00. He just about sh-t a new tractor then I told him that was for parts ONLY now the labor Thin I told him the lab, would be about $100.00.

Then he said: NO NEW PARTS: JUST FIX IT ,So I ok:
This is my plan tell me if it will work:
I will take off the steering arm, Square the wheel up , Drill a hole in the side of the steering arm ½ or 3/8th put the arm back on mark the spindle shaft drill a ½ or 3/8th hole about ¼ ‘’ deep in the steering arm and then tap out the hole in the steering arm for that
Bolt size that I use and make a set screw for it: Will this work, If not what will:
MANY THANKS GUYS
JR FRYE

Whatever you do he will hold you responsible for it from now on when it breaks again. That's been my experience anyhow. TDF

(1) He made a "suggestion" on how to repair it.
(2) You "countered" with how it should be done "properly"
(3) He balks at the price...says "just fix it"
(4)...My "suggestion" is to "fix it" like he originally asked for...ie...WELD IT and make sure invoice is marked NO GUARANTEE ON THIS REPAIR... When it gives way/breaks, etc. you can tell him "Sir, I did what YOU requested...even after explaining WHY I should NOT"

...OR...

(5) Let him get someone else to do the work...you don't need to be inviting potential problems down on yourself.


Rick

I would grind away all that old weld and then grind a groove all around where the two pieces meet and then weld the daylights out of it... And, like someone already said, No Guarantee!
8)

hey big guy i agree with all the other comments , and i mite add i probably wouldnt do it . he doesnt want it done right, and you cant make it new with out new pieces. the welding wont last ,like you said too much strain. i see no point in being the 1 blamed for the repair being not done right when its due again.

So why isn't the pinch bolt pinching? Are there splines that are stripped?

MANY THANKS GUYS;
YOU GUYS ARE THE BEST;
HAVE A GREAT NIGHT AND ILL SEE YA ALL LATER
JR FRYE

That is a common problem/repair on IH tractors.I have two(and a 3rd that is going to get the 'treatment') that are repaired that way.the shaft andkey get worn and will not stay tight.The reason it(the repair)failed is be cause it was not correctly.Grind the old weld off and then weld little short beads across the 'crack',not around a circle.You can also cut the groove completly through the arm,drill the hole to accept a 3/4 bolt and tighten the "liveing $h!+" out uf it.

I take care of these jobs real quick like. If you don't want it fixed right ,take it somewhere else, I am not going to destroy my reputation of 35 years by half azz doing a job for some tight azz. There is a liability there you know, if the spindle chrystalizes and breaks off and he's doing 30 MPH down the road and he crashes. He will have a rich wife.

What welding man said!

Grind off the poop that is welded on it. Pull off the arm. Use a cutoff wheel in a grinder to assure the pinch bolt can pinch cleanly down on the shaft.
grind out the keyway to accept a next usable size.
re-install the arm, tighten well! Have him sign a release from all responsibility. Repairer (Name Here) Shall be held harmless in all relationship to the serviceability and safety of the spindle and arm, right side front of tractor (serial #). Previous condition of material was unsatisfactory. Recommendation to replace components was rejected.


Jim

What I have seen done in industrial applications, with one or some of the other ideas, is to drill a hole vertically for a round pin (grade 8 bolt shank) removing half of the hole material from the arm and half of the hole material from the vertical shaft. The round pin can be welded in place when welding the other 2 parts together. The round pin acts like a key. Try not to drill the hole oversize, a very slight press fit would be better, to prevent any reversing action. This advise is worth as much as you are paying for it.

The set screw WILL NOT work. It would just round out. Plus most of those spindles are heat treated and are hard. I would recommend not doing anything as YOU will be liable when it fails again and it will when fixed half a$$ed. HE will be sure and tell all of his friend that you "fixed" it and your repair failed. I have been there too many times over the years. You can't make a silk purse out of a sow's ear.

So with that said IF you still want to fix it, do like Delta Red suggested. Remove all the welds, that was just someone "easy" fix that will not hold. Then take the steering arm off and grind the slot that is already there completely through. Then put in a new key and new grade eight bolt. Tighten the he!! out of the bolt. This will hold a while. The best would have been the new taper lock spindle and arm.

I would get him to sign a release, with a witness, any repair that was done without new parts. I know of a guy killed when one of these stripped and made the tractor flip at road speed. You will be sued if that happens so be prepared to defend your self. I have been sued twice over failed repairs in twenty years. Each time I was saved because I had used factory new parts. The liability was passed on through me, even if the parts are after market.

You will not win in the long run either way on this repair. If you fix it right then he will bad mouth you for being too high. If you rig it. When it fails he will bad mouth you because you did not make the whole tractor new for a cheap repair price. You will never make much money working for cheap skates. They will never let you make a profit.

Just weld it like he said ,he obviously knows??????