Condenser

What are the symptoms of a bad condenser? I have a V4 engine that stalls after running a few minutes. It will start again after a few minutes and do it again. I suspect a bad fuel pump but it pumps when I disconnect the line to the carb.

You could have a coil going bad.

If it is losing capacitance, spark will be almost non existant. Pull a wire,put a plug in and see what the spark looks like. Must be grounded good or you might get fooled. Wear big gloves. Could be hidden fuel filter in carb. Dave

acondensor COUlD do that if it failed open.. however you would see burnt points.

a short failure would mean no spark.

I'd suspect fuel from the symptoms you report.. but as a test, when it stalls.. see if you have spark.

soundguy

It does have spark right after it quits. Replaced the coil already.

Cleaned the carb first thing.

then check fuel..

Sounds like restricted fuel flow. If it was the condenser your points would show signs of burning. If the coil it would normally take more than a few minutes before it would start again more like a couple of hours most of the time. But if the bowl on the carb is filling, then on start up/short run running out of gas it would generally show that the bowl isn't filling fast enough to keep up with demand but would refill fast enough to restart in just a few minutes.

Rick

A Wisconsin takes a special coil.

Check to make sure you don't have anything floating around in the fuel tank. I've seen many machines exhibit the symptoms you describe and alot of times that's the problem. I've seen it become more prevelant since they started putting the foil seals on the top of additive bottles, because people often just push the foil through and when they start to pour the contents into the tank the foil piece comes loose and dives into the tank without them realizing it. Regardless of the object though what usually happens is when the engine is running the fuel pump creates enough suction to pull the piece down against the line and block it off. When the engine stops it moves away and just cranking the engine over doesn't create enough suction, for long enough, to pull the piece back down and shut off the fuel flow. In other words it's one of those things that is a real PITA to diagnose and find but the problem does exhibit the symptoms your describing. I've also seen the same thing happen when an inline filter got something that looked almost like super find grass clippings (disentigrated paper towl, etc???) sucked into it. Same thing, the stuff would settle in the filter and I was getting fuel when cranking the engine over, but once started the stuff sucked up against the element and blocked the flow, starving the engine til it quit. Good luck finding the problem. It'll probably be something really simple when you figure out the cause....usually is...LOL.

I had a Wisconsin V4 with a mag that did that and it ended up being the condenser. Not saying that's your problem but it's a possibility. Jim

condensor and points get hot, the engine dies,cools off it runs, then same thing again, change it and see what happens,its not that pricey of a part so its worth just changing it. Guy I am working for just bought two old V4 wisconsins one on a IHC selfpropelled haybone the other on a MH pull type combine, the engines will be saved the rest is scrap metal.

Burnie.......ignition condenser failures come in 3-catagorys.
OPEN; burned and pitted points but will run
SHORTED; never ever starts
LEAKY; leaky condensers will work for about 1-min and quit; restarts after about 5-min cooldown.

Don't fergitt, yer weaksister ignition switch ($10, cheap) will also exhibit the run/quit/cooldown/restart symptoms too.

Bottom line, condensers are CHEAP so they are always included in a tune-up kit. Most of the time the OLD condensers are still GOOD ...but... are sold as a CYA (cover yer a$$$) insurance.

Most automotive ignition condensers are good for about 200-volts; but sometimes you can gitt 4000-8000 volt feedback that will short thru yer condenser oiled paper insulator, and guess what??? it won't start or run.

There are some good electronic condenser testers ($$$) but since condensers seldom fail, they are a waste of time and money IMHO. .......Dell, retired electronics calibration lab engineer and self-appointed sparkie-meister

I just finished helping my neighbor with a similar problem. Fuel cap was dirty and had no vent. Blew it out and it ran like new.

Having a Wisconsin start, and run ok until it
warms up is usually a failing coil problem!

I worked on a 51 Plymouth auto radio that had to have every condenser replaced.As I replaced each one the radio worked better.The filter cap let thru a lot of vibrator hash, had to be replaced.Just fixed 2 fence chargers that had the same capacitor bad.I have some NOS condensers that are worthless.A little leakage in audio coupling capacitors will cause distortion.When I started in radio about 1950 the word condenser and capacitor was used in radio.I know the origin of the word condenser or condensor in electronics.