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72 Ford Pup won't keep runnin'

M

Motorcraftman

Member
I have posted things abt 72 F-100 pup 43K w/302 v8 Engine...simply put it sat for many yrs inside.. got it runnin few wks ago,Ran Beautifully really, then it sat for abt two wks, now it starts.. but will ONLY run abut 45 sec, then gradually comes to a stop, everything Visible is fine! no matter where You hold the gas it won rev up or nothing and will only run at a little above Idle with the gas all the way to Floor, doesn't appera the Accelerator has any effect at all, NO unusual noise or nothing...It will start up n do it all over again???? I KNOW theres alot of Gu Ru's thar are Fluent in these old Scool,Engines HElp!!Whats gion on here Guys?this is a very Nice/No junk Tk Thanks! Larry in Ga
 
Well first off your problem is simple it is a Ford, ya I am a Chev man. That said I would check/replace the fuel filter bet is is clogged up and that will cause a problem like you have. I am also guessing you did check for spark and so not likely to be that unless you did a tune up not long ago and the condenser could be bad if it still has the point type ignition that is not sure when Ford went with electronic ignition
 
you need the carb overhauled, due to the fact that its gummed up or the diaphram in the fuel pump cracked or the little valves in it sticking. first disconnect line at carb and slip a rubber hose over it as not to cause a fire and crank engine over and see if you have fuel pressure.
 
well,i personally would start with the fuel lines.work my way forward to the carb.ive had to run a baling wire completly through the gas lines before to remove old tar left from fuel.the fact that it ran good for a while and then laid down on you would indicate to me that the new fresh fuel is removing the deposits in the system.something that the modern gasahol fuels should be good at.remember some( i dont recall on the 302) had a fuel filter on the fuel pump also,in addition to the regular in-line filter.you may simply take the line loose at fuel pump to tank and use a air compressor to blow back through it.if its clear you should hear it very well in tank.fuel pumps on these old things have a habit of clogging up also after setting for a long time.pull the line off carb have someone crank it and see if it gets a full stream of fuel.trace it back from there.one thing to check for also is fuel leaking out side of pump.thats a sure indication of a bad diaphram.holly four barrel?some of these have externally adjustable needles and seats.they also were bad to fail after sitting.for one they had a o-ring on them that would allow fuel to pass,number two there is two float bowls ,one primary one secondary,problem in either would cause flooding,which could be your problem also.but normally a flooding condition would be acompanied with a lot of black smoke which you dont mention having.remove air cleaner and look for adjuster on top right (as veiwed from the front) of float bowl where fuel line enters.thats the needle and seat.fuel level should be just at bottom of hole when you remove screw at top left hand side of bowl.DONT DO THIS WHILE RUNNING!!!tube runs down right side of carb to secondary bowl, they can plug also...but i dont think secondarys are your problem,even though some were vacumn.only other thing i would check is point gap,and fire if weak could be an old weak condenser.
 
(quoted from post at 10:57:44 09/13/11) I have posted things abt 72 F-100 pup 43K w/302 v8 Engine...simply put it sat for many yrs inside.. got it runnin few wks ago,Ran Beautifully really, then it sat for abt two wks, now it starts.. but will ONLY run abut 45 sec, then gradually comes to a stop, everything Visible is fine! no matter where You hold the gas it won rev up or nothing and will only run at a little above Idle with the gas all the way to Floor, doesn't appera the Accelerator has any effect at all, NO unusual noise or nothing...It will start up n do it all over again???? I KNOW theres alot of Gu Ru's thar are Fluent in these old Scool,Engines HElp!!Whats gion on here Guys?this is a very Nice/No junk Tk Thanks! Larry in Ga
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Those Fords are relatively easy. You can remove the top of the carb and leave the bottom part right where it is. I'm bettin' the deep well tubes are plugged up.
 
They went electronic in 76 with Dura spark.And Old any gas engine that sat for a long time be it Ford chevy, dodge don"t matter the brand that is going to happon. All I have to say is Ford has sold more trucks the GM for over 30 years.
 
go through the entire fuel system from the tank forward--clean tank if needed, replace line if gunked up, check fuel pressure - replace fuel pump if needed. clean the carb religiously-rebuild if needed. nothing a little time and elbow grease can't fix.
 
Ya maybe ford did sell more but they also cost less then the Chev model and the repair parts for the ford cost half again as much as they do for the Chev. So Chev gets you up front and ford gets you after the fact. I own a Ford 1 ton and I do not have brakes that work because I can not get the parts for it and some parts I need I can buy but they cost an arm and leg
 
I would bet on a fuel issue, could be a fuel pump or anything from the carb to the tank.

I would take the air cleaner off, and when it stops, see if the accelerator pumps still work. The pump will suck out of the carburetor bowl. The pump should squirt down the throttle when you open it up.
 
So your trying to say you can't find brake parts for a truck that they built millions of? As far the price for parts go I would be willing to bet the same part for the GM truck would be around the same price as the Ford.
 
Dunno whats yer problem but I would eliminate fuel delivery... You will need a vacuum gauge,,, I would work from the tank side of the pump back... remove the inlet line at the pump and install a vacuum gauge,,, crank the engine over you should see at least 15" vacuum if not you have a restriction on the outlet side are a bad pump... If you have good vacuum work toward the tank are go directly to the tank its EZ enuff to get to...

I would check fuel pressure and volume if its off the vacuum check will nail the culprit,, I have NEVER seen the vacuum check fail me its something I always do on the hard pumps to get at,,, if a pump fails the vacuum check with the outlet side open its BAD I guarantee it (unless the pump drive is bad)... A pump will not pump what it can not suck...

Sum'n else to think about (seat tank),,, if you had the tank slap full you could throw the pump away and tie the inlet and outlet together... It will gravity flow till about 3/4... I have seen cracked hoses leak vacuum but not leak fuel on the tank side of the pump...

Most fuel pressure gauges have a vacuum scale its was not a freebee it was meant to be used its part of the check... :idea:

Fresh fuel is had to beat :wink:
 
Yep I own a 1965 Ford 1 ton and can not get a master cylinder for it or wheel cylinders. King pins are over $100 each and the list could go on. A starter for it will cost over $100 but a Chev starter is less then $75. Yep ford parts cost more then Chev parts
 
I should think you would have a carby full of gunk from sitting for so long.stale fuel certainly kills my chain saw.
 

I did a search,,, Every part except the master i found in a few min for less that haft what you stated ,,,name brand good parts not the cheap stuff... :roll:
 
I had a 69 Ford 800 that would run longer than that, but would just die.. sometimes it'd start back up easily, sometimes, not so much..

I bought it from my grandpa, who had cleaned the tank, new fuel pump, rebuilt carb, did a full tune up trying to solve it.. Finally he decided to give it up, and not having a lot of money, but ample time and needing a grain truck, I figured I'd find the problem eventually.

One of the fuel lines was rusting from the inside out restricting fuel flow and plugging up filters (in this application, filter was on the pump). The fuel line that was bad still looked like new on the outside. I replaced them all for good measure however.

Good luck,

Brad
 
I think you are right about the filter on the fuel pump. It is
probably a steel screw on canister.
 
Hey MCman, Don"t forget the lowly gas cap- I had a plugged vent on my 2000 tractor that stopped me plowing snow a while ago, would run for a while then quit. Replaced cap & O.K.
Mark
 
Have you tryed Napa. I know I could get a master cly for that with maybe 3 phone calls. King pins on a chev are about the same and as far as a starter have your rebuilt or rebuild it your self to save a few bucks.
 
You are missing the whole point. Chev parts cost less then the Ford part I.E. a Chev starter for a 250-6 will cost less then a starter for a Ford 300-6. As I said Chev gets you up front and Ford gets you in the back or in other words gets you for replacement parts. As for a NAPA store I have to drive 30 plus miles to find one and that is just one way
 
Their are way more Ford 300 six engines built then Gm 250 six engines. Very easy to find parts for. It's all about supply you cant tell me that the 260 six starter is cheaper when I know I could go to any junk yard and walk out with atleast 6 starters for a ford 300 six and not find any for a gm 250 six. How long has it been sence gm made the 250 six? 97 was the last year for the ford 300. the stuff is all about the same in price. And as far as your drive have them ship the parts.
 
(quoted from post at 22:48:08 09/15/11) Their are way more Ford 300 six engines built then Gm 250 six engines. Very easy to find parts for. It's all about supply you cant tell me that the 260 six starter is cheaper when I know I could go to any junk yard and walk out with atleast 6 starters for a ford 300 six and not find any for a gm 250 six. How long has it been sence gm made the 250 six? 97 was the last year for the ford 300. the stuff is all about the same in price. And as far as your drive have them ship the parts.
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Advance has one for $32.99 Google "Driveworks 3124"
 
Well then why is it I can not have not been able to find those parts for more then 10 years. Have a 1965 Ford 1 ton with factory dump bed and have yet to find a master or wheel cylinder for it and what I do find is not correct and does not and will not fit Sorry BTDT and have tried and tried again and the parts ARE NOT correct for it
 
Ah junk yard I will not buy from a place like that for a starter etc. Sorry been doing this for 35 years and have always found Ford parts cost more the Chev parts. As for how common the starter for a Chev 250 and a Chev 350 will bolt on to either but you can not say that a Ford starter for a 300 6 will fit on a 390 or 351 Cleveland or windsor
 
(quoted from post at 19:23:26 09/15/11) Ah junk yard I will not buy from a place like that for a starter etc. Sorry been doing this for 35 years and have always found Ford parts cost more the Chev parts. As for how common the starter for a Chev 250 and a Chev 350 will bolt on to either but you can not say that a Ford starter for a 300 6 will fit on a 390 or 351 Cleveland or windsor
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I got to jump in on prices.. You're FULL OF IT!!!!

Last Chevy starter I bought (to fit mid 70's SBC) was $85
Last ford starter I bought (1979 Bronco w/351 M) $19.99

Both were short warranty.. I think 2 year..

I'm not a Ford man, nor a Chevy man, but I drive one of each these days.. The Chevy is newer, Ford is older.. I have YET to find something cheaper on the Chevy than my Ford..

Buy a few of Chevy's $119 fuel filters for the early '00's 4 cylinder S-10's.. Or the starters.. Or the $100+ wheel bearings (that RARELY LAST 50k miles) and tell me Chevy parts are cheaper..

Or rebuild a 4.3 V-6 once (which is a 350 with 2 cylinders lopped off).. Done a few of them now.. Last one was 5 years ago or so, $1300 for the machining, and a o'haul kit. I didn't have $700 into the 351M I did, and the Ford needed ALOT more machine shop work than the Chevy did.

Oh, and buy a 1997 Plymouth/Dodge Neon and you'll buy starters from a junkyard.. Back when my ex had hers (it was about 8 years old then) the cheapest I could find one back then was well over $200.. Junkyard.. $25.. And she got 4 more years out of that $25 starter.

Another point.. When I had my 01 s-10, replaced the starter TWICE.. $190 bucks at Murray's (now O'Reilly). I WILL BUY JUNKYARD STARTERS BEFORE I BUY ONE FROM THAT DUMP THEY CALL A PART STORE. At least when you buy junkyard stuff, it's cheap and you EXPECT IT TO BE JUNK.. Also, ever notice how them big chain stores tell you the starter, alt, and just about every other electrical part they check is bad, until it comes to warranty replacement.. I fought that fight with this starter.. Yep, "tested good", but the bendix wouldn't spin out to engage in the flywheel..

Brad
 
I am also talking older Chev/Ford parts not this new junk they build as in the early 90s and older and yes I have priced all that type of stuff and 75% of the time the ford stuff cost more
 
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