gaskets

JR Frye · Sep 12, 2011

Hi Guys: Whats up.
What is your thoughts on using
Silicone Blue RTV on the Valve covers, I have never used it before and every one has told this is the way to go.
I do know what happens if it is used on a auto transmition and you use to much because a man rebuilt my brothers auto transmition and used rtv
and it screwd up the trany.
so what is your thought for valve cover gasket
replacement.
MANY THANKS
JR FRYE

rrlund · Sep 12, 2011

I'll just tell you,I HAVE taken little bits of that stuff out of oil passages in engines before. I shouldn't have to say any more.

keh · Sep 12, 2011

Toyota makes a factory brown sealant that they at least use on oil pans. It works fine unless you drag the pan across some projection in the #&%* closeworking space andmake a groove in it, making it necessary to redo the job.

KEH

Hobo,NC · Sep 12, 2011

(quoted from post at 00:13:44 09/13/11)
Hi Guys: Whats up.
What is your thoughts on using
Silicone Blue RTV on the Valve covers, I have never used it before and every one has told this is the way to go.
I do know what happens if it is used on a auto transmition and you use to much because a man rebuilt my brothers auto transmition and used rtv
and it screwd up the trany.
so what is your thought for valve cover gasket
replacement.
MANY THANKS
JR FRYE

I have used it on a cork gasket BUT spread it on thin with a finger then install the part and just lightly snug it down,,, the next day finish thigh'n the part down...

have also seen were folks make a real mess with RTV,,, RTV is slick and if you go for the kill tightening it down it will destroy the cork gasket,, fresh RTV acts as a lubricant...

I don't like blue RTV,,, Ultra Gray is my favorite... The read deal is "The Right stuff'' (RTV)... I do this for a living so I am not as experienced as those that occasionally hobby wrench... :lol: Like anything else you gotta use the rite amount,,, read the directions its on the tube...

rustred · Sep 12, 2011

G M has used silicone on valve covers for years. you have to be sensible how you use it though. just run a nice bead on the valve cover, not going crazy with the stuff, and bolt it down. i have used this stuff all the time and dont see any problem. it sure beats those stupid cork gaskets that are always leaking. lots of times its a job to get the covers off when the need arises once glued down with silicone. just remember it only takes a film of it to do the job. same as the engine brgs, they only run in a film of oil.

BushogPapa · Sep 12, 2011

Look on the tube for the Key Word.."Gasket Maker"..

Only the ones that say "Gasket Maker" are good for what you want..

Ron..

Allan in NE · Sep 12, 2011

'Taint worth a damn. Use the black stuff.

Allan

Old Roy · Sep 12, 2011

Here's what I use when I can... The valve pan bolts will screw into casket holding it in place for mounting.
neoprene

Absent Minded Farmer · Sep 12, 2011

I thought it was Aero red for valve covers. I ain't a big fan of liquid gaskets, anyhow. Are the usual gaskets unavailable?

Mike

Bob · Sep 12, 2011

The blue stuff is CUTE, but if you want to keep oil from spewing where it's a problem for some time to come, use Permatex "The Right Stuff".

Allan in NE · Sep 13, 2011

Yep,

I've NEVER been able to make that blue stuff seal for more than 20 minutes. :>)

Allan

skip33652 · Sep 13, 2011

I will second this the "right stuff" best stuff ever Paul

big jt · Sep 13, 2011

I will join the ranks of leaving the Blue in the store. Have heard good things about "the right stuff".

I have always used Red Hi Temp RTV with good success.

There are a couple of tips I will suggest. For valve covers I use the proper cork gasket with a light coat on both sides. Usually you need the thickness of the cork to provide clearance and make a good seal.

Couple other tips I that seem to make a huge difference. Cleanliness is a absolute must. I am not talking wiping it off with a rag here. I use aresol carb cleaner and after that don't touch the part with anything till the RTV is applied, even the oil from your skin can cause problems. Other is a hint a old timer gave me, let the stuff skin over lightly. If you are wiping on a thin layer on a regular gasket by the time you get stuff ready to assemble and wipe your hands off it will be skinned over. if you laid a bead you should grab a quick sip of your favorite beverage and then assemble.

HTH

jt

toadady · Sep 13, 2011

RTV is alway goowie, it's for making gaskets, i like to use weatherstrip adhesive or K-W copper coat,

Hobo,NC · Sep 13, 2011

(quoted from post at 15:56:35 09/13/11) I will join the ranks of leaving the Blue in the store. Have heard good things about "the right stuff".

I have always used Red Hi Temp RTV with good success.

There are a couple of tips I will suggest. For valve covers I use the proper cork gasket with a light coat on both sides. Usually you need the thickness of the cork to provide clearance and make a good seal.

Couple other tips I that seem to make a huge difference. Cleanliness is a absolute must. I am not talking wiping it off with a rag here. I use aresol carb cleaner and after that don't touch the part with anything till the RTV is applied, even the oil from your skin can cause problems. Other is a hint a old timer gave me, let the stuff skin over lightly. If you are wiping on a thin layer on a regular gasket by the time you get stuff ready to assemble and wipe your hands off it will be skinned over. if you laid a bead you should grab a quick sip of your favorite beverage and then assemble.

HTH

jt

I differ, I glue the gasket down with 8001 3m weather strip,,, spread a lite coat of rtv on the gasket and assemble as soon as possible... (directions state do not let it skim over) Theirs a 4 min. window :wink: Then their are times I just glue the gasket with 8001 glue and install dry... Not every thing gits RTV,,, it will still leak down the road with RTV... Folks get their Selfs in trouble trying to make it to good....

Doug in Illinois · Sep 13, 2011

You are correct on the gray stuff. It is rated for
constant oil contact, the blue isn't. DOUG

Hobo,NC · Sep 13, 2011

(quoted from post at 00:58:26 09/14/11) You are correct on the gray stuff. It is rated for
constant oil contact, the blue isn't. DOUG

I wish every reply could be right,,, Theirs no set rule,,,you learn from your mistakes... A AMC 4.0 (aluminum valve cover) and GM 2.5 L4 valve cover I do not use a gasket,,, The right stuff will seal'em... Nuttin will seal a 5 bolt olds V8 valve cover for long,,, I use a good cork gasket,,, get to do it in a year are so again,,, pays Good... I as soon glue a cork gasket with 3M glue to the valve cover and bolt it up if I have a sealing problem then I will decide what to do...
The issue most face is the load is not spread out...

GM # 14085816 is a reinforcement stud and bolt kit used to spread out the load on valve cover,,, I use this kit on every thing I can and in most cases it eliminates leaks and gasket damage... Google the number I have not found any other reinforcement clamp that can compete with it, any thing else is junk.... This kit will eliminate leaks on GM 4 bolt covers... Seams anything that uses center bolt covers need nuttin but a gasket....

Anonymous-0 · Sep 14, 2011

I found that it helped to wait an hour or so after applying the silicone to the valve cover before installing the valve cover to the head. And then you just go past the point where the bolt heads start contacting the tin valve cover. The next day I would torque the valve covers properly. It is also important to make sure both surfaces are really clean of oil or grease.

I never had any problems with oil leaks on my Chevy valve covers sealing them that way. On the other hand, it can be a real b-tch to get them back off if you need to, and a hassle cleaning things up so you can repeat the process. Using gaskets is easier, but in my experience, after a while most of them end up leaking. The silicone, done right, is more efficient long term at keeping the valve covers from leaking. IMHO.

Hobo,NC · Sep 14, 2011

(quoted from post at 07:14:26 09/14/11) I found that it helped to wait an hour or so after applying the silicone to the valve cover before installing the valve cover to the head. And then you just go past the point where the bolt heads start contacting the tin valve cover. The next day I would torque the valve covers properly. It is also important to make sure both surfaces are really clean of oil or grease.

I never had any problems with oil leaks on my Chevy valve covers sealing them that way. On the other hand, it can be a real b-tch to get them back off if you need to, and a hassle cleaning things up so you can repeat the process. Using gaskets is easier, but in my experience, after a while most of them end up leaking. The silicone, done right, is more efficient long term at keeping the valve covers from leaking. IMHO.

I fist saw a GM reinforcement stud and bolt kit on a new 1986 chebby pick up I brought... I liked to never got a parts man to find the part number for them,,, Somewhere in the late 80's I started installing GM kits on chebby small blocks,, I have never had a leakier when the kit was used... I tried look a likes from MR gaskets what a joke.... GM kits maintain a constant clamping pressure,,, if you remove them they spring back to their original bow,,, others will deform in the opposite direction.. Its not so much the gasket are how you doctor it up its how they are retained...

gaskets

JR Frye

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rrlund

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keh

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Hobo,NC

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rustred

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BushogPapa

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Allan in NE

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Old Roy

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Absent Minded Farmer

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Bob

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Allan in NE

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skip33652

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big jt

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toadady

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Hobo,NC

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Doug in Illinois

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Hobo,NC

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Anonymous-0

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Hobo,NC

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