Can I JB Weld this?

Absent Minded Farmer · Sep 7, 2011

I'm not one that likes to be a cheapskate with repairs, but I'm in a tight spot. First off, how gosh-awful bad are these cracks? The large one that runs vertical accepts quarters when cold. The two horizontal cracks aren't much wider than a sheet of paper & seal-up when the manifold gets warm. I don't have much chopping to do, maybe two wagon-loads total. Should I patch it, leave it or wait until I can afford to replace it?

Is there a tractor that uses a Waukesha 135 GZU or some other 135 G+ series engine? How about a stationary or industrial engine bone yard? There has to be an inexpensive used manifold somewhere. I was quoted a price on a NOS one & well.... the guy on the other end of the line should have told me to sit an' hang on! I think I still see stars. My other calls so far have only turned up complete engines & they are no where near home or affordable, especially on such short notice. If anyone has a lead, I'd appreciate it.

Thanks,
Mike

Rusty wheel · Sep 7, 2011

I don't think JB Weld would hold up because of the expansion with the manifold gets hot. If the metal is not too bad you could weld it with cast rod and it should work, at least for a while. I think.

Walt Davies · Sep 7, 2011

Silver Solder does a very good job on these, be sure to clean the crack out to the bare metal make a frame to hold it in then go for it.
Frame consist of a heavy flat metal bar that you bolt the manifold to.
walt

Stephen Newell · Sep 7, 2011

JB Weld will work great unless you start the tractor. It won't tolerate the heat. You would be better off replaceing the manifold. For a temporary fix you could fill the crack with stove cement. They sell it at Tractor Supply in Fall and Winter. It is also available at stores that sell wood stoves.

C.R. · Sep 7, 2011

maybe stove cement,and a band clamped around it with those screw drive hose clamps

Anonymous-0 · Sep 7, 2011

I'd just put some tin round it til your done chopping. BUT I would do some bout that gap at the air cleaner hose and the carb! will suck in a lot of fine grit.

Ric Ks, · Sep 7, 2011

Are manifolds still pot mettal or they some kind of ceramic?? I wonder if they are cast steal anc can you wire weld it temporary at least. we used to braze them with some success.

Mike (WA) · Sep 7, 2011

Rule of Thumb for JB Weld: Intakes, yes, exhaust, No. Won't take the heat.

Guess I'd buff the crack up a bit, then braze it. May not hold, but then again, it might. Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

philWi. · Sep 7, 2011

Try and have it stoddy welded or Muggy weld it while its hot. Hth/Phil.

Nebraska Cowman · Sep 7, 2011

I've had pretty good luck with stove cement

jackinok · Sep 7, 2011

jb weld wont hold,it cant handle the heat.ive brazed them in the past.for a short term type fix why not some of that muffler repair tape?would be a cheap repair that would last awhile i would think.

showcrop · Sep 7, 2011

I have had good luck with the high temp copper colored RTV silicone on a temporary exhaust manifold repair.

Fritz Maurer · Sep 7, 2011

That looks like a pretty clean casting. I think brazing would be the way to go on that. I get your meaning on Waukesha prices... needed a water pump for a 6 BZ... supposedly the last one in captivity, wanted $ 750+ freight. I declined. Sent it to Hepp-Kondis and they rebuilt it for $35. Fritz

RedRoundhead · Sep 7, 2011

No JB Weld on that, but I would weld it. Is it a 3 piece castnting? Looks like it comes apart. Anyway, I have had alot of luck using UTP Econocast Cast Iron rod. I have filled in stripped sections of gears/sprockets, re-hobbed them, and are still using them today. I also have varying degrees of results on the whole preheat/weld/keep heated/ cool slowly practice of cast iron welding. Sometimes it re-cracks, sometimes not. Alot of variables. Sometimes I start welding, cold, and it welds nice. I ALWAYS drill a "stop hole" at the end of the crack to stop the old crack from spreading. I just keep trying until it works.

Best of luck! If all else fails, just wrap it to keep the hot exhaust gasses contained.

Absent Minded Farmer · Sep 7, 2011

I didn't think there were so many fixes to my problem. I would like to weld or braze it, but I can't get the chopper close enough to the garage to do the job. Figures! Those Muggy rods really sound awsome & wouldn't mind playing with a few. I'm thinking I'll try the stove cement or muffler tape, both of which I didn't think existed anymore due to asbestos content.

THANK YOU ALL!
Mike

BCnT · Sep 7, 2011

JB Weld wont do it but Devcon will...i patched a hole drilled thru #1 cylinder on a 66 Ford Falcon 170 with some about 30 years ago...i know it held up for at least 10 years but lost track of the owner...he was the DA that drilled out the water pump bolt and kept going lol

Janicholson · Sep 7, 2011

Nothing mentioned below that is made in two parts and mixed to harden will work. THey are plastic and cannot work ever.
Silver solder melts at just about the temp of the manifold and would cost big bucks to do it wrong.
Real welding is the only way. A pro welder could make it operational in 20 minutes if it were off of the tractor.
No substitute for correct.
Temporary is OK with Muffler Bandage and clamps around that, or stove cement with clamps. If the bandage, tighten the clamps as it heats due to the material shrinking. Jim

Absent Minded Farmer · Sep 7, 2011

After some thought, I'm not sure which "fix" I want to use. The cement for the stability or the bandaid for the ease of clean-up. I'll have to sleep on it.

I wouldn't mind welding it up right when I get time & can get to my welder. $1500 is hard to swallow for a new manifold. If I'm going to pay out the orifice for a manifold (A-haw, A-haw), it'll get the Mike Cooper treatment (see link below).

Thanks for the input,
Mike
Tubester, Dude ......

george md · Sep 8, 2011

Mike,

None of the epoxy products will stand the
heat. If it isn't pouring rain tomorrow ,I will
look to see if the one I have is like yours. It
is in an old IR air compressor and I don't
remember it's shape.

If I don't have one ,I can repair that one.

george

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outer layer destroyed by rust and
erosion and freezing</p>

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RedRoundhead · Sep 8, 2011

Nice work. Looks good!

Billy NY · Sep 8, 2011

Have you heard of these kinds of cast repairs ? Meant to post this yesterday.
Lock N Stitch

Absent Minded Farmer · Sep 8, 2011

Hey, that's some fine welding!! If you have a manifold that fits, that would be great. Otherwise, I can limp along until I can get time to have things done right. Once the show's over & I get time to collect my marbles, I'll post back here.

Thanks,
Mike

george md · Sep 8, 2011

Mike,

Sorry , the engine is a 145 GZ , not even
close . Down draft carb, separate intake and
ex manifolds. Have 2 of those 145's , one
engine out of fire truck (good engine) other
is in IR air compressor ,( parts ).

Come winter time i can weld that one for you.

george

george md · Sep 8, 2011

Billy,

I use those lacing plugs , they are much

better than the old taper plugs in most places.

Still use the taper ones where needed. But

that manifold is not the place for them.

george

Absent Minded Farmer · Sep 8, 2011

That would be great & give me some time to save.

Thanks,
Mike

Billy NY · Sep 8, 2011

There is a lot to absorb on that site, but he or they used to post over on the antique caterpillar forums, in regards to manifolds, and I recall seeing some photos of repairs, there is more info on cast repair, not sure if you saw it, seems like they might be able to help. That's a tough one for Mike, darned cast is a pain to deal with when it breaks, NOS price outrageous, and or finding good used not happening, almost wants to make you fab something from steel, but they use cast obviously for a reason, expansion/contraction rates I assume, figured I might post a link to the site, as there might be something helpful there, hopefully he finds something to get it repaired.

KF · Sep 9, 2011

Silver Solder is $1000 a lb. right now. Might reconsider that method.

Can I JB Weld this?

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