Weight Dist. Hitch or Air Bags?

in-too-deep · Sep 7, 2011

Wanting to add some towing capacity to my "05 F-150. I know air bags will help with rear sagging, but a W/D hitch will lighten the tongue weight and keep the truck more stable. Air bags are more versatile and I can put more weight in the bed when I"m not towing. W/D hitch is the cat"s meow...but are they easy to hook up to different trailers? A pain to hook and unhook? Price is about the same for either option...I"m most worried about the lack of versatility with the W/D hitch. I understand I"d need a W/D hitch to match the trailer weight and tongue weight. (Oh, also getting an elec. trailer brake controller) Any advice? Please don"t tell me to buy a bigger truck, as that is not an option, and I"m tired of borrowing trucks from friends. Thank you!

Anonymous-0 · Sep 7, 2011

You dunnit now....... Asking a ???? like that to the guys that insist you need an f450 for pulling a popup camper. How much do you think you're gonna be pulling and how often? I'd go the KISS route and put on airshocks or use the airbags. But, if you have a decent truck, if you add the goodies to handle all the extra weight that it wasn't meant to handle in the first place, you'll just wear it out... I'd put a decent hitch on it (if you don't already have one) and maybe some helper springs (air shocks maybe?), and use it like half ton should be used.

Lloyd In South Carolina · Sep 7, 2011

I have both,,, really love my airbags. Went with the automatic system, very glad I did that. It adjusts and always keeps the truck level, great for towing my 5th wheel camper, great for my gooseneck... and works well with standrad trailer.

PLUS.... when the wife gets in the truck and the compressor kicks on,,,,,, I always laugh and she always gives me the salute!!

L.

Super Trucker · Sep 7, 2011

There is a couple of company's making a rubber bump stop type for adding weight capacity. Works like overload springs rides like a 1/2 ton till you put the weight in. I think there called TIMBERLINE? I had the air bags and was always chasing air leaks from all over but I liked it for the ride.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 7, 2011

(quoted from post at 11:32:46 09/07/11) I have both,,, really love my airbags. Went with the automatic system, very glad I did that. It adjusts and always keeps the truck level, great for towing my 5th wheel camper, great for my gooseneck... and works well with standrad trailer.

PLUS.... when the wife gets in the truck and the compressor kicks on,,,,,, I always laugh and she always gives me the salute!!

L.

You may wanna do a little modifying on your humor if you wanna finish and enjoy that barn :roll:

Paul in MN · Sep 7, 2011

Timbren might be the correct name.

Paul in MN

Paul in MN · Sep 7, 2011

The RV industry has some excellent choices for weight dist hitches. I have used a few different brands, and find the simplicity and reliability of the Equalizer Brand to be my favorite. They are sold for bracket weight groups, i.e. like up to 10,000 lb trailer, or up to 12,000 lb trailer. Besides giving the truck much more stable steering with the weight shift towards the front, the Equalizer brand also provides automatic sway control, a big plus.

More people are pulling RV trailers with 150 series trucks than ever before, as the 150 series are being built to take more trailer weight, and the weight of RV trailers is coming down to improve gas mileage.

Being as this is close to the end of the camping season, I'd be watching Craig's List for a good used hitch. Look for one with an adjustable height head, not the welded head. This hitch will outlast many tow vehicles.

For electric brake controllers, go with the Tekonsha brand. They have a good response and are very reliable. I have had others, and have gladly thrown them away. Remember your life depends on a good hitch and a good brake controller.

Paul in MN

Ken Macfarlane · Sep 7, 2011

Its not a question of or. Are you pulling a size of bumper pull trailer that you need a WD hitch yes or no. I think its over 5000 lb in that year of F150 requires WD hitch or you exceed the tongue weight rating of the hitch.

The WD bars are inconvienient if you hitch and unhitch a lot but they make it possible to tow with the right tongue weight. Air bags don't fix that, just hide it, letting you take even more weight off the front steer axle.

charlie n · Sep 7, 2011

I put Timbrens on my 2000 HD2500 and really like them.We put 160 bales on the goose neck and it rides flat as a pancake.The only problem is they set about two inches above the rear end when the truck is empty.It don't take much of a load for them to touch and OMG does the ride ever get rough.
I also have a 2010 F150.If I would enhance the tow capacity on it I wuold use air bags.JMHO.Good Luck .

oldtanker · Sep 7, 2011

OK now that everyone has told you how to do it look at the legal side with is 2 sided.

Your towing capacity is your towing capacity. The only way to up that legally is to trade yer truck on a 3/4 or 1 ton. You can change out the entire drive train and it's whats on the door tag/title that counts. Plus if you add 100 pounds of hitch and overload bags or springs you reduce the amount you can legally carry by 100 pounds. Plus add in that some states are starting to check and scale pickups, smallest fine I've heard of is about $750. Towing capacity is determined by engine/tranny and braking ability plus type of hitch. Carry weight is determined by the axle not the springs.

Now look at the legal liability side. You get in an accident that winds up in a court room you can bet the other guys lawyer is going to do his/her best to paint you as a "cowboy" who wasn't worried about the safety of others on the road and only wanted a bad a$$ truck.

Don't believe it? Check the laws in your state and any state where you may be carrying/towing with that state DOT.

Rick

in-too-deep · Sep 7, 2011

Manual says my max towing is 8500 lbs with my engine,
wheelbase, and rear end combination. (Seems like a lot)
GCRW is 15k. (Also seems like a lot.) Don't know if MNDot
agrees with that or not. 3200lb trailer plus 4000lb tractor is
7200lbs. Half my GCRW and well under my max towing. All I
wanted to know was the best and safest way to keep my
pickup from sagging in the rear. I know the tongue weight is
important, but I don't currently have way to find that out.

in-too-deep · Sep 7, 2011

Manual says my max towing is 8500 lbs with my engine,
wheelbase, and rear end combination. (Seems like a lot)
GCRW is 15k. (Also seems like a lot.) Don't know if MNDot
agrees with that or not. 3200lb trailer plus 4000lb tractor is
7200lbs. Half my GCRW and well under my max towing. All I
wanted to know was the best and safest way to keep my
pickup from sagging in the rear. I know the tongue weight is
important, but I don't currently have way to find that out.

in-too-deep · Sep 7, 2011

I should've mentioned the trailer and tractor will total
around 7200lbs and my manual says I can tow 8500 with a
max GCWR of 15k. This will be a one time trip to go get a
tractor a couple hours away.

Leroy · Sep 7, 2011

It should also tell you the weight without the dristributing hitch and with it. My Dakota and Caravan do. Buy a set of clamps for each trailer and pplace them one time and it only takes a minuet to hook them up when you need them if you keep the brackets on the trailer, now if you DO NOT KEEP THEM on is when you have problems in getting them placed correctly and keeping them tight. And a gooseneck trailer is an entirely different animal in that with that your weight is directly on the axle instead of being on a fulcrum in back of the axle and that is the problem with trucks now. They used to have the axle 2/3 of the way to the back end of the bed instead of centered the way they are now. With the gooseneck you just need the helper springs, the bumper pull you need both to keepp weight on the front wheels. The load leveler hitch just gets away from the teter-totter efect of the rear axel placement.

VADAVE · Sep 7, 2011

OK you got all these opinions here's my experience. Air bags are just overload springs; the only difference between actual springs and air bags is that with air bags you do not have to remove them to end the overload help. In 1956 when we moved from New York to Oregon pulling a homebuilt travel trailer weight distribution hitchs (WD) were around and expensive. Overloads worked fine they do not relieve the need to have the right amount of tongue weight just allow that weight to be too much.
WD also allow too much tongue weight and spreads the load allong all of the axles. The WD also has the advantage of stiffening the turning so that the tow vehicle trailer combination is more stable.
8500 tow weight sounds about right for a 1/2 ton truck. WD is the way to go. They are as easy to hook up as without WD, just a couple of extra moves. I think I had Reese but it been a while an dI could be wrong. If you have gooseneck you don't need WD and I don't think they exist. Back to the subject--hook-up. There is a rotating hook on each side of the trailer tongue; a bar goes in the tow vehicle hitch and a chain on the end of the bar goes on the hook pull the hook up over center (need a cheater) and you're done.
CHARLIE what are you doing? I have a 2500HD Duramax and the max gooseneck tow weight is right at 18000. Max haul weight is 6000. You don't need overloads with a gooseneck. Unless you're way overloaded. With my 20 foot gooseneck I have been unable to load the front of the trailer enough to make the truck squat. Course I'm not hauling hay. But a 20 foot disc taken apart and stacked at the front meant the load was on the front 3/4 of the trailer and the load with trailer was real close to 18000. The truck sat level.

Geo-TH,In · Sep 7, 2011

Weight Dist is the right way to go. If you live where there are no hills or mountains, a F150 is fine as along as you are in no hurry. Hills or mountains, go bigger. If you are not for hire and not going out of state, which I am, DOT won't mess with you. On the other hand if you are commercial, you need your State's Dot #'s and pull across scales. Then, you may be in trouble. Going out of state, Fed DOT #'s.

To answer your question, my weight dist hitch will not bolt to my 10K dump trailer.

I have a 14K, 20 ft implement trailer. Did a friends a favor, no money. His F150 4x4 broke down 100 miles away. I have an electric wench on trailer. Pulled Ford on trailer. Strapped it down and pulled it home with a GMC serria 6 cylinder. I think my truck is rated at only 5700#. However, with a dist hitch and good electric brakes on the trailer, I had no problems. The F150 is way north of 5700# and trailer is around 3200#.

You need to learn how to balance your trailer. I use the 5/8 - 3/4 inch rule. Use a tape and locate the load on the trailer to compress the bumper 5/8 - 3/4 of an inch. That is the sweat spot for my truck.

Now watch, there are those who are going to jump all over me for this post. I think some people really need to get a life.

oldtanker · Sep 7, 2011

At a total of 7200 LBS you can when loading the tractor move it back and forth to put a little weight on the hitch but back far enought to get a good ballance with about 200 lbs on the front at the hitch.

Weight distrubuting hitch is the best way to go IMO.

Rick

in-too-deep · Sep 7, 2011

Thanks for the info Paul. I looked at the Equa-i-zer brand but they are pricey. For what little towing I do I'm this flat, flat country I can get by with a simpler one. I know I sacrafice the sway control with cheap ones, but I'll look for one with adjustable head like you said.

oldtanker · Sep 7, 2011

George I've seen people getting tickets in state with Mn plates from the MN state police DOT enforcement people. Some for too heavy but most for unsecured loads in the last few years.

Rick

in-too-deep · Sep 7, 2011

Kinda what I thought. Trailer and tractor will put me at about 7200lbs. Thanks Ken. I take pretty short trips and unhitch/hitch a lot, but it's a necessary evil.

in-too-deep · Sep 7, 2011

Thanks George. Yup, pretty dang flat here. I'm not gonna win any races with my 3.55 gears and 7200lbs behind me, but I'm a patient person. I kinda worry about balancing the load on the trailer I'm gonna use cause the axles sit pretty far back, it's a 20ft 14k like yours.

john *.?-!.* cub owner · Sep 7, 2011

I have been suing LD hitches for several years, both with my F150, and my heavy version Ranger (rated for 5500 pound trailer). and really like them, the ride is smoother, and you have better control if the road is rough. Once you get used to where to hook the chain, you can connect the lift chains before letting the tongue jack all the way down, that makes it much easier. You need to watch about getting them too tight,. the rear wheels will spin on gravel if too tight. One thing to think about is that on many of the 7,000 pound trailers the top of the tongue is so wide the lift bracket will not mount to it. I had to get my brackets widened.

Regarding the controller, I use a Tekonsha Prodigy, they are expensive, but are slef leveling, and have a life time warranty.

Chris(WA) · Sep 7, 2011

I have towed with my '01 F-150 since it was new and think it does a great job. I added Firestone air bags and a rear sway bar. Have a L/D hitch on our travel trailer but I liked it way less than having the bags aired up properly. Too stiff and handled oddly.
The bags work great!

Geo-TH,In · Sep 7, 2011

Use a distribution hitch and a tape measure. Stay off the interstates and avoid scales. You will find the place to park your load and everything will be fine. I haul 3 diffferent tractors and a 5,000 pound lawn roller to my properties with no problems. Only one at a time. I park the back wheels of the tractor between the axles of the trailer.

farmall300u · Sep 8, 2011

For a one time, short trip to load a tractor, I would not invest $500+ into a load leveling hitch. I would install the air shocks for that monies. I would load the tractor such that the front of the truck does not go up more then 2 inches and the rear does not go down by more then 1 1/2 inches. I think this puts between 500 and 800 pound load on the hitch. I use a 10,000 pound pintle hitch on my 2006 F150 FX4. I would be very concerned if you put only 200 pound load on the hitch.

If you were going to haul the trailer cross country, then the weight distribution htich is the way to go, providing you load the trailer to match the front and rear height change specs.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 8, 2011

(quoted from post at 23:56:22 09/07/11) For a one time, short trip to load a tractor, I would not invest $500+ into a load leveling hitch. I would install the air shocks for that monies. I would load the tractor such that the front of the truck does not go up more then 2 inches and the rear does not go down by more then 1 1/2 inches. I think this puts between 500 and 800 pound load on the hitch. I use a 10,000 pound pintle hitch on my 2006 F150 FX4. I would be very concerned if you put only 200 pound load on the hitch.

If you were going to haul the trailer cross country, then the weight distribution htich is the way to go, providing you load the trailer to match the front and rear height change specs.

Real good idea.... And, another thing to think about..If you invest what you were talking about and fix your truck up as a superduper trailer puller, you're always gonna have "friends" that wanna borrow it..... Won't take long to ,ake a beater out of a nice truck that way.
If your book says you can tow that load naked, then do it. If it goes wrong, sue ford...........

Geo-TH,In · Sep 8, 2011

I purchased my 1000 lb dist hitch for $375 from a local RV dealer. HF has them for around $200. HF has many 20% off couponds in the paper too.

When I was young and folish, I had air shocks on a car. Jacked the rear end up and almost got killed. No air bags in my future.

A dist hitch actually puts weight on the front wheels. Air bags can't do that. I'm glad I spent the money on a good hitch. Only use it when I put 5000+ pounds on the trailer.

Don't put and signs or advertisement on your truck and in Indiana the DOT won't mess with you. Chain things down good too. When I hauled the F150, I had it strapped 8 ways and on a smooth road at 60 I couldn't tell I was pulling a trailer. Get your electric brakes set right and you can stop real fast.

Oldmax · Sep 8, 2011

Most truck manfactures recomend a WD hitch if over 3000 trailer. Remember that reese hitch isn't rated for 10,000 unless you are using a WD hitch. Is only rated for about half that. In other words uou are over The hitch rating at 5,000. And some people complain about hitch failure when all the time they are overloading the hitch.

Ryan - WI · Sep 8, 2011

This really comes down to your comment about which way works best for you. If you are looking solely at needing it to pull a trailer then go with the hitch. That said, I have air ride springs under my Dakota. I went with them because a lot of the time that I use them I don't have a trailer on. I got them primarily because my Dakota has sport suspension (which means it is softer) and I used it to haul loads of wood home with. I was never over the rated weight of the truck just squatted the truck a lot. I also use the bags a lot when I haul loads of dirt.

If you would use or need help with leveling the truck with just a load in the box then get air. If you only need it to level the truck when pulling a trailer then get a hitch.

Mel in SW Iowa · Sep 8, 2011

I wouldn't drive two hours to pick up a tractor
without using a proven combination. Test everything loaded before you leave. I pull a 3 axle construction trailer and a 16' car hauler with a 93 Dodge dually that is rated at 10,100#
GVW and still have some surprises. Bumper pull trailers like to be close to level when loaded to eliminate bump surge (actually gooseneck trailers do too). Ten inches difference front to rear in spotting a load can make a safe load dangerous due to tongue weight balance
even though it is not squatting enough to catch
your eye.
Weigh and write down tow vehicle front and rear weights if you have access to a scale. Measure and write down empty and loaded heights front and rear on both towing vehicle and trailer. Check your tire pressures carefully. Good luck on your trip.

Weight Dist. Hitch or Air Bags?

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