OT shock collars

Anybody had experiance with dog with a shock collar? I have a fenced in yard but I would like to turn my dog out on about three acres to harass the deer and coons. I live on a highway and I am afraid to turn him loose>

We've got one of the radio controlled jobs,but if you want to let him run on 3 acres,you'd need the burried fence. The radio controlled has a radius of about 90 feet. The advantage to the radio controled is that they can't overrun it. It keeps on shocking if they go too far. Works great though for what it is.

My neighbor has the burried fence.When he comes home from work the dog is setting on the outside of the burried wire,he can't figure it out.

once a dog is on a chase ,it's hard to get him to stop unless he has been trained to know his boundries . Most collars you are the one pushing the button unless you have buried dog fence . Unsupervised dogs usually end up getting hit . Hate for that to happen to any dog . DT make good collar systems , Thats what my dogs wear . 3/4 mile range ,,but they only shock if I push the button .

have used buried fence on lab mutt mix for 7 years, he weighs about 60 pounds, took about 3 weeks to train him, started with collar that came with fence, not enough correction. Bought a "bad dog" collar, works on 9v battery, now called something else to be politically correct. He ran deer one time, caught him, brought him back inside boundary at spot he ran thru and held him there about 5-10 seconds, he wound my fingers so bad thought he broke them, never ran thru it again, even with squirells and deer coming into the edge of it. All about putting flags on boundary and teaching first few weeks. Got mine at Lowes, you can buy more expensive ones. Mark

The majority of the people that use a shock collar to train a dog will do more damage then good. My advice to you is to use a long rope (100 ft) and go out with the dog and let him run and when he gets to the boundery you stop him with the rope. You do that enough and he will learn how far he can go.

Don't know of another way to explain this other than what I have observed with my lab. Basically, given enough room to get up to speed a dog can cross the 'warning area', cross the fence, cross the 'warning area' on the other side, and never get shocked. Because of the time delay before the correction, as far as the collar knows the dog entered the warning area and then left it before actually crossing the fence. I watched Roscoe do it several times when the dog across the road would stand in the field at the end of the driveway and provoke him. Two or three long, running strides, and maybe a second or two, and he was cross the fence and gone withour so much as a yelp from getting zapped. Problem was he was never running or in a hurry coming back so he'd get zapped and not want to cross back or know what to do not to get zapped. Got a friend that said the way to work around that was to run three strands of fence, far enough apart that they didn't cancel each other out, in areas like that. He said when his got caught up between the three strands he didn't know which way to run. From that point on said the dog woldn't even go back to that area, much less try to leave the yard.

Never hooked mine back up after Roscoe crossed the last time and got in a fight with the other dog that tore up his collar so I can't say hopw it would work in the ong run from personal experience. That said I've got a neighbor that keeps collars on three dogs that ran free for years, and two goats, and unless the fence goes down for some reason or the collar batteries die, you never see them outside the fence boundries.

Depends on what kind of dog you have. You can ruin a good watch dog with pepper spray. I'm not sure I would stand on the other side of fence if a pit bull was coming at me. Some dogs don't understand the concept. Old saying, "TO TRAIN A DOG, YOU HAVE TO BE SMARTER THAN THE DOG"
Led

Shock collars are nothing more than a leash that reaches out a long way. Except for discouraging a dog from running off game--deer, rabbits, etc.--they can only reinforce what a dog has already learned. They are not a silver bullet. I've used a shock collar for several years training my dogs. Once the dog knows what is expected, very low stimulation is sufficient for correction.

If you want your dog to "harrass" deer and coons and stop when it hits the three-acre limit, I think you are setting yourself up for failure. The only way I see this working is to teach your dog where his boundaries are, and even then, I don't see a successful outcome. A dog he!!bent on chasing a deer might go five or six miles or more before giving up the chase. A fence makes more sense.

Larry

i been wearing one for about ten years now and havent steped out of line once.

I see a lot of "Invisible Fences" in my area, and you will see the dogs behind them running along the road and staying there. I do know that as others have said you must "train " the dog to the fence.

Once or twice a year..there's something in the
newspapers about a parent using them on a kid!
It appears to be a Wisconsin/Minnesota "Thing".

forget it,they have a limited range and if you dog takes after a deer it will be out of that range and gone.99% of dogs also learn very fast that if they run fast enough one of those invisible fences wont shock them either.shock collars are a very good training tool,but on a dog that wont mind willingly they are for the most part worthless.ive never ( and i raised and kept bird dogs most of my life) seen one work on a dog who wouldnt willing obey commands.they are tools to break a dog of bad habits,not a training tool to break a unwilling dog to obey.besides, what are you going to do have your dog chase deer and then shock him for doing so?

(quoted from post at 17:53:13 09/06/11) Anybody had experiance with dog with a shock collar? I have a fenced in yard but I would like to turn my dog out on about three acres to harass the deer and coons. I live on a highway and I am afraid to turn him loose>

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I don't think it's gonna do what you want. If the dog gets after something, the collar is gonna be the last thing it thinks of. What you'll most likely end up with is him blowing the border in an adrenalin rush then not be able to come back home when he calms down and being scared of your property. Pretty successful over here at keeping wild game (deer and hogs) off of roads by hanging CD's from fishing line along the edge of the woods. They don't get used to them because they always move and reflect different. May try it around the piece you want to keep them away from.

I've used a shock collar and had great results with it. The brand name is Dogtra and it is remote. You can set the level of stimulation you want to send. There is a website run by a company called Leerburg Kennels that sells them ( you can find them on google).

They have a training video that shows the correct method to train while using the collar. The secret is to have him wearing it for a while so that he is used to it, that way when you use it, they don't assiciate it with the collar.

I picked up a large German Shepard from a rescue shelter but he started a bad habit of chasing and harrasing cows, basically a death sentence in central Texas. I used the method taught on the video, let him get used to wearing it then apply a full stimulation as he starts his attack.

I was a good 1000 feet from him when I hit the button and it lifted him off the ground. He wore the collar another week before I took it off of him and he has never given a cow a second look since.

Leerburg is a good website for solving dog problems. Look under the dog training section for ideas.

Hope this helps sir