72 chevy dieing under load

MSS3020 · Sep 2, 2011

My 72 truck, automatic, 3/4 4x4, 350, quad-jet, and it has elec-distributor. This truck has ran great until this year. I starts and runs fine when cold, but after it gets warmed up and i shift it into gear it dies. Even setting idle when warm it will die after bout 15 sec. doesnt do this when cold only after warmup. Rebuilt and adjusted carb 3 years ago. Elec. distrib installed 5 years ago. Any help on this would be great.. thank you

sd pete · Sep 2, 2011

Have you ever put a fuel pump on it? Just a guess but they used to be cheap.

Detmurds · Sep 2, 2011

(quoted from post at 08:47:53 09/02/11) Have you ever put a fuel pump on it? Just a guess but they used to be cheap.

Good point, sd pete.

Also, did this start after doing some work on it, or did it just gradually happen?

Bad fuel filter? Air filter? Vacuum leak? Is the choke stuck?

oldtanker · Sep 2, 2011

From your statement you have a fuel problem. Fuel pump is a good place to start.

Rick

BushogPapa · Sep 2, 2011

You may want to take the Ignition Module and trigger ring (in the Dist ) in to Autozone, etc and have them checked..
I would think it is the Module...(on the fender).
They are not cheap...
Ron..

old · Sep 2, 2011

On one like that you could have the coil or the pick up module in side the distributor going bad or a bad fuel filter or the choke is not opening like it should once warmed up. I would double check your spark when it is warm. Ya say you installed an electronic ignition but is it a stock type used on the later models or an after market set up?? The old 350 Chevy are known to be a good long lasting engine but any of them can end up with a small problem that will drive you nuts.

Allan in NE · Sep 2, 2011

Coil.

Allan

MSS3020 · Sep 2, 2011

Thanks to all who have contributed.. Yes I have had a new fuel pump put on about 3 years ago..And yes I cleaned and regaped the plugs and put on new wires trying to fix the problem. Thought the wires might be worn and were arcing. Had that happen once on my 3020 so...The elec. distributor I have had on it for quite a few years.. Haven't had any problems..however things do go bad so will look at all options you guys have given me..Kinda a pain when pullin trailer with hay and it cuts out.. OOOOPs...

Hay_Man · Sep 2, 2011

I had one like that and had the devil with vapor locking. I would think with the ethanol nowadays it could be a problem. I cured it by installing a Holley in-line elec. fuel pump on the frame after the fuel filter to push the fuel past that hot spot that was vaporizing the fuel.

Dave in GA · Sep 2, 2011

Pull the distributor and install another one. Your stalling problem will probably be gone. I've been through this kind of stuff and it's always been something gone bad in the distributor. It's hard to determine exactly what component went defective, so I just replace the whole thing.

When it dies, does it cough and sputter a second or two? That would mean fuel pump or carb. However, it it just dies like turning off an electric switch, without coughing, it's the distributor or maybe the coil.

Huskers86 · Sep 2, 2011

Get a can of carb cleaner and spray around the carb and intake runners where they meet the heads. Do this when it's cold and if it starts running rough you'll see where your problem is. It's just a thought and pretty cheap way to check for gasket/vacume leeks.

sws55 · Sep 3, 2011

Does your distibutor have two different pickup modules in it: one for cold warmups and one for normal operation? Could the normal pickup be bad?

I had an '87 Dodge that had two pickups in the distributor. When the normal pickup went bad it would start well and then die as soon as it got up to temperature, just like you turned the key to "off". It would not re-start until it cooled down again.

A new pickup module was only $40 15 years ago and I could replace it myself. It was different make and different vintage though.

MSS3020 · Sep 14, 2011

For those interested in what the heck was wrong with my chevy truck.. Bad ignition module.. Fixed that sucker right up.. Thanks to all who commented to get me to thinkin what to check... THANKS!!

charles todd · Sep 14, 2011

Been there, done that and have a T-Shirt. All this on the side of the road, out of state. Happened to have a used one in the toolbox. Had a fuel problem first then the module crapped out... Figures.

CT

Anonymous-0 · Sep 15, 2011

(quoted from post at 13:05:34 09/02/11)
You may want to take the Ignition Module and trigger ring (in the Dist ) in to Autozone, etc and have them checked..
I would think it is the Module...(on the fender).
They are not cheap...
Ron..

I don't recall GM ever having an ignition module on the fender.

Anonymous-0 · Sep 15, 2011

(quoted from post at 03:07:00 09/03/11) Does your distibutor have two different pickup modules in it: one for cold warmups and one for normal operation? Could the normal pickup be bad?

I had an '87 Dodge that had two pickups in the distributor. When the normal pickup went bad it would start well and then die as soon as it got up to temperature, just like you turned the key to "off". It would not re-start until it cooled down again.

A new pickup module was only $40 15 years ago and I could replace it myself. It was different make and different vintage though.

Mopar and GM electronic ignitions have absolutely nothing in common with each other.

charles todd · Sep 16, 2011

This is true. When a Mopar module stats to fail at random it can cause some interesting results. Loss of power, gauges acting crazy, feedback in the radio speakers with the radio off... I witnessed that on a 1976 Dodge truck w/ a 318.

As far as I know, GM module has always been inside the distributor from 1974'ish when they went to electronic ignition until the distributor-less ignition came out.

CT

72 chevy dieing under load

MSS3020

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sd pete

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Detmurds

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oldtanker

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BushogPapa

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old

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Allan in NE

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MSS3020

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Hay_Man

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Dave in GA

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sws55

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