Case electrical system

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a case 770 that has had the points replaced with an electrical ignition. The tractor is running poorly and I took the coil off to inspect it and noticed when the tractor is running with the coil detached from its bracket there is an eletrical arc from the body of the coil to the body of the tractor. I assume this is not good and would like help understanding what causes it and what I should do to fix it. The second question I have is, how can I verify that the resistor, coil, and electrical ignition are compatibal with each other?
 
(quoted from post at 14:31:50 08/28/11) I have a case 770 that has had the points replaced with an electrical ignition. The tractor is running poorly and I took the coil off to inspect it and noticed when the tractor is running with the coil detached from its bracket there is an eletrical arc from the body of the coil to the body of the tractor. I assume this is not good and would like help understanding what causes it and what I should do to fix it. The second question I have is, how can I verify that the resistor, coil, and electrical ignition are compatibal with each other?

The coil should not be passing electricty through the body of the coil. The Arc you describe is because your coil is bad and passing the voltage that should be going to you distributer cap and on to the plugs is shorting somewhere (often a defictive boot on the big wire or dirt and or fluid on the top of the coil). If you have an external resistor then you need a non resistor coil. If you have no resistor then you need a coil that has an internal or built in resistor. The coil grounds through the the small wire that goes to the points or IE in the distributer.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/ignition-system3.htm

Rick
 
Then explain why the one on my Cub cadet 782 has a plastic housing ? I always have tried a coil without completely mounting it.

Either worked or didn't throwed the ones away that didn't
 
(quoted from post at 16:21:28 08/28/11) Read his post. He has the coil hanging loose & the spark is jumping to ground to complete the circuit. Normal.

I did read his post and while working as a mechanic when confronted with a coil would always hook the new coil up without installing to be sure it was good before mounting. Some coils do have a body ground to suppress raido noise but nothing that passes electricty should be in contact to the body of the coil. Electricty goes through the coil to a switched ground called points or the trigger on IE. Now if the enternal coils were gounding to the body the tractor wouldn't even start because the coils would be shorted out all the time. Now a bad coild on the 2nd winding could jump enough to casue the sparking and not allowing the full discharge to go to the plugs....hence the rough running. Look at a front mount distributer on a Ford N series tractor. The body of the coil is plastic. One wire in that supplies power to the coil, one contact that goes to the points and one to the cap. No ground except the one to the points. points closed completing the circut builds power and when they open the coil discharges that power to the plugs. I may not have explained it well but thats how they work.

Rick
Rick
 
NO! NOT normal.

The coil is an autotransformer with 3 terminals, and NO internal connection between the "guts" and the case should exist!



<img src = "http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FC6/CXUK/F6B7Q84T/FC6CXUKF6B7Q84T.MEDIUM.jpg">
CORRECT coil schematic

<img src = "http://i54.tinypic.com/30kukpt.jpg">
Coil schematic drawn by an IDIOT/does NOT exist on an old Case tractor
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top