- Thread starter 641Dave
- Start date
Allan in NE
Well-known Member
Do they still make those pulley stretchers? Haven't seen one of those for 50 years.
Allan
Allan
Brokenwrench
Member
The easy way is with a fence stretcher.
You can also stretch fence with a fencing pliers. You need to do it at a corner post or buck post, to use that as your anchor of sorts.
You kinda need three hands that way though.
Where my wire meets the corner post, it wraps around it. I also use a big staple to hold it to the post.
I back the staple out, or even start it over the wire in a different spot on the post. Then unwrap the wire from around the post. Pull it as tight as I can by hand, then grab the wire as close to the post as I can with the inside jaws on the fencing pliers. Then, using the post as a fulcrum and the pliers as the lever of sorts I pull the wire tight.
If you get used to it, you can kinda keep ratcheting the wire throught the pliers to get it as tight as you want. Then pound the staple in to hold the wire so you can let go and rewrap the wire around the post again.
One of those things thats really easy to show, but hard to explain....
You can also stretch fence with a fencing pliers. You need to do it at a corner post or buck post, to use that as your anchor of sorts.
You kinda need three hands that way though.
Where my wire meets the corner post, it wraps around it. I also use a big staple to hold it to the post.
I back the staple out, or even start it over the wire in a different spot on the post. Then unwrap the wire from around the post. Pull it as tight as I can by hand, then grab the wire as close to the post as I can with the inside jaws on the fencing pliers. Then, using the post as a fulcrum and the pliers as the lever of sorts I pull the wire tight.
If you get used to it, you can kinda keep ratcheting the wire throught the pliers to get it as tight as you want. Then pound the staple in to hold the wire so you can let go and rewrap the wire around the post again.
One of those things thats really easy to show, but hard to explain....
greenbeanman in Kansas
Well-known Member
Bolt the fencing betweem two 2 X 4s to the width/height of it and pull on that. Will stretch the entire width at once without warping it out of shape.
You can attach a central pulling point to the 2Xs if you wish.
You can attach a central pulling point to the 2Xs if you wish.
Brokenwrench
Member
That is a friggen slick idea. You sir are a genius. No more tugging the crap out of it by hand for me. haha
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
I have a pulley stretcher and uh yeah its about 50 years old.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Yep! That's how it is done around here. I think every farmer has a pair of 2x4s with 4 or 5 bolts holding them together.
Ken Macfarlane
Well-known Member
We have a 2x4 with 5 u-bolts and a piece of round stock that slides in the u-bolts to trap the wire for woven stuff. Always tensioned with a hydrostatic tractor or comealong. I'd be tempted to try the atv's winch now, just haven't strung any tensioned fence lately, all poly electric.
They make a 3pth stretcher that unrolls the woven wire and then locks on it to stretch. Ive got a home made version that goes on the front of the skid loader. For places that wont work I staple the woven wire to a 2x4 and chain it to the atv. Pull it as tight as a Honda 450 will.
I use a couple of 2x4"s drilled with some 3/8" nuts and bolts to clamp on the wire. I wrap a chain around the top and bottom of the 2x4"s. I wrap one end around the corner post and then pull the other end with the 2x4 clamp by the cchain with a come along usually attached to the hitch on my TO-30.
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
Define easy..
I have a local fence contractor as a hay customer. We barter. I provide hime with round bale hay, he does my fence work. So far it's worked out well for both of us. When it stops working, we go our seperate ways. It don't get any easier in my book.
I have a local fence contractor as a hay customer. We barter. I provide hime with round bale hay, he does my fence work. So far it's worked out well for both of us. When it stops working, we go our seperate ways. It don't get any easier in my book.
oldironman
Member
There was a guy at the empire tractor show in Seneca Falls NY that had a puller that was pressed metal that you could put in your pocket. I can't remember what he called it though.
1468 Chris
Member
I weave a fence rail through the "panels" of the fence and then put a chain on the top and bottom of the rail and hook the chain to the back bucket of my backhoe then use the hoe to pull the fence tight. Its a nice even and steady pull with no jerking. You can make one tight fence that way.
I use a steel stretcher board with steel wedges(coast about $100) hook a chain and two HD come-alongs to the tractor or skid loader and pull tight finsh off with the come alongs to get a nice even pull.Then I put 2-3 staples in the top wire cute it and tie it to the corner post and repeat one at a time working my way to the bottom wire.I also do not drive any of the line post staples all the way in (I use 1 3/4 in barbed staples) as this will let your fence float and not get streched out and floppy.
fixerupper
Well-known Member
Man, it's been awhile. Clamp it between the 2X4's or 2X6's pull with a tractor until the little bends or kinks in the horizontal wires are pulled about half straight, set the brakes. Walk along the fence and pull it off the ground in a few places so it stretches clear to the end. Walk away till next morning and staple it on to the corner post. You do use three brace posts don't you? Jim
BushogPapa
Well-known Member
I use the old Steel fence clamp we have, chain to the top and bottom of the clamp, to the drawbar of trailer Hitch and Stretch that Puppy until it is Tight..
Usually, the length of a complete roll will stand right up against the posts..
I doubt a 2-wheel drive PU could begin to get it that tight..
The fence will Stretch quite a few Feet, before it is tight enough..
Ron..
641Dave, I use a tractor with a 2 in pipe bolted to the stationary drawbar and a short chain to the Center link mount.
Used a JD 4230 pulled a 2100+ ft stretch of fence! Had all my Deer Hunters in and they were scattered out along the way to keep the Net wire from hanging up on little stobs, roots, and rocks. There were 7 and a short piece rolls of 48 in Net wire. That pull, I pulled out over 50 ft of slack to get the fence stretched to a tension I desired!
It was he hardest stretch of fence I have ever pulled. 2/3/4 rolls are a piece of cake compared to 7 rolls.
OBTW...Corners are 9 ft X 4 in pipe set 4+ ft in concrete. in a Double H fashion with 2-7/8 brase pipe centers. 6.5 ft steel t-post on 15 ft centers. with a 1.90 xtra thick wall pipe post at every 6th post position. We did cross one small wet-wether creek there is a set of Single H brases there on both sides just in case they are ever needed.
When you are pulling single runs of Barbed wire Be very careful for you can pull it in to before you realize what is going on!!!
Later,
JAS
Used a JD 4230 pulled a 2100+ ft stretch of fence! Had all my Deer Hunters in and they were scattered out along the way to keep the Net wire from hanging up on little stobs, roots, and rocks. There were 7 and a short piece rolls of 48 in Net wire. That pull, I pulled out over 50 ft of slack to get the fence stretched to a tension I desired!
It was he hardest stretch of fence I have ever pulled. 2/3/4 rolls are a piece of cake compared to 7 rolls.
OBTW...Corners are 9 ft X 4 in pipe set 4+ ft in concrete. in a Double H fashion with 2-7/8 brase pipe centers. 6.5 ft steel t-post on 15 ft centers. with a 1.90 xtra thick wall pipe post at every 6th post position. We did cross one small wet-wether creek there is a set of Single H brases there on both sides just in case they are ever needed.
When you are pulling single runs of Barbed wire Be very careful for you can pull it in to before you realize what is going on!!!
Later,
JAS
Anonymous-0
Well-known Member
What type of fence do you have .?
I've used a steel pry bar instead of a pipe and weave it through the fence openings, then put a chain around the bar, top & bottom, attach it in the middle to a chain come-along, not a cable one, and then anchor the come-along to a tree or tractor or truck. I don't like to use a tractor or truck to pull as the come-along gives better control, and..... I've got one. :lol: Did this fence using the above method. It's kind of PITA, though to weave the bar, wrap the chains and they usually will come loose when the bar falls over before I can start pulling, so I'm building a fence unroller and a stretcher that should be easier to hook up and use. The stretcher is basically a piece of square tubing with pieces of 3/8"x 4" flat stock welded at intervals to the tube and bent to "grab" the fence. I'll post a pic when it's done.
I don't have any wire yet, just getting my notes down on how to do it.
Last year we set up some field wire around some feeders and it ended up looking pretty bad. I'm going to fence the new place and I want to go with field wire to keep the hogs at bay.
I realize now I need to do some work making a wire grabber and I need a good come-a-long.
As usual, this forum is proven to be my best tool in the shed. I appreciate the insight fellas!
Last year we set up some field wire around some feeders and it ended up looking pretty bad. I'm going to fence the new place and I want to go with field wire to keep the hogs at bay.
I realize now I need to do some work making a wire grabber and I need a good come-a-long.
As usual, this forum is proven to be my best tool in the shed. I appreciate the insight fellas!
I wonder where Lanse is about now.
Dave, you still need to add a hot wire or two in an attempt to keep the hogs off the fence. With horses you want a wire about chest high and one on top to keep them from leaning on the wire.
I like to keep the fence a few inches off the ground so you can get a weed whacker under it. If you don't control the weeds, blowing dirt and dead weeds will eventually fill in and rise up and grab the bottom of the fence wire.
To protect your investment for more years, hot wires to keep the animals off of it and control the weeds and grass at the bottom. The longevity of the fence will also depend on post bracing as well.
Last one I stretched was with an old barbed wire stretcher that hooks over the post and has a lever and notches in it. Started from the top and did the heavy guage wires first and then went back to the lighter ones.
Dave, you still need to add a hot wire or two in an attempt to keep the hogs off the fence. With horses you want a wire about chest high and one on top to keep them from leaning on the wire.
I like to keep the fence a few inches off the ground so you can get a weed whacker under it. If you don't control the weeds, blowing dirt and dead weeds will eventually fill in and rise up and grab the bottom of the fence wire.
To protect your investment for more years, hot wires to keep the animals off of it and control the weeds and grass at the bottom. The longevity of the fence will also depend on post bracing as well.
Last one I stretched was with an old barbed wire stretcher that hooks over the post and has a lever and notches in it. Started from the top and did the heavy guage wires first and then went back to the lighter ones.
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