Hard starting Deere 800 swather

Question for you guys. I have a 800 deere swather that starts up very nicely when its cold. But when i shut it down to do some service work it is very hard to start again. Probably have to crank it 15 -20 seconds before it will even start popping, then crank it again until it starts. Its bad enough that i dont shut it down between fields unless i know it will be shut down for at least a half hour.

What would be the things to look for?

Thanks
 
We have been spoiled with the reliability of electronic fuel injection.
Many folk today have never had to deal vapour lock, boiling gasoline, heat soak. Choke plates, flooding, stuck floats, leaking needle/seats and heat riser valves. Good old days my *ss.
The fuel pump has to move the vapour out of the lines and carb then replace it with liquid gasoline.
Is the fuel tank full and does the gasoline contain ethanol?
I spent many an hour on the 800 swather.
b.t.w. make certain the final drive chains are kept snug.
Also make certain the canvas roller idler spring loaded slides move freely. Usually requires an annual removal of the canvases and cleaning the rust,dirt and vegetation out of the slides.
There are heavy springs around the table lift cylinders. Adjust them up to bare some weight when the platform is rubbing on the ground. This will limit wear on the platform slides, reduce drive train wear and reduce fuel consumption.
A fine old machine that doesn't get the credit and popularity it deserves.
 
When I was young we had an IH swather with a V4 Wisconsin on it and it was terrible that way. Started fine in the morning, (hand crank!) but if you shut it off for lunch it would take a long time, maybe an hour or more to get it re-started. We just quite shutting it off outside of the shed, it had a good muffler and didn't burn much gas so no problem. It ran quite hot so I suppose it was vapor locking.
 
On my 800 I find when I shut it off hot it will be flooded when I come to try starting it. Hence I push the throttle wide open and give it NO choke. It will usually start ok then. But still cranks maybe 10 seconds. But like buick said there can be a lot of variables in them old engines. Yours might have different characteristics.
 
I just bought one, 14 foot, for swathing oats.

Tried it a bit on grass hay, as everyone seems to use them for hay here. I don't have crimper, and 14 foot is pretty wide for grass so not a primary consideration. Long cutterbar for fine grasses, lot in the windrow, not really what it's for....

But it sure chatters when the head is low in green hay, have to keep it up 6-8 inches and it cuts good. anything I can do to improve that? You seem to have some experience. ;)

Mine the choke is missing the knob, starts cold or hot with no choke, runs like a top hot or cold, working parts run very smooth, suppose a new cutterbar will help but doesn't look to bad in my view.

I need to order a manual.

--->Paul
 
A guard can look "not too bad" and be worn enough to impair cutting. Same goes for knives.
If the actual cutter bar the knives rivet to is worn. The header isn't going to cut even if everything else is perfect.
We welded an extra piece onto the cutter bar end to mount 1 extra section. Made a world of difference.
The conditioner also requires the shields to direct the discharged cuttings into a proper windrow.
The choke cable on ours was treated to a squirt of oil on each end every time the chains were oiled.
 
Thanks for the replys, guess ill just live with it. Was hoping there was something i could fix. I thought of vapor lock but really dont want to redo the fuel system.
And yes buckanddeere i keep her in tip top condition. Most of my swathing is custom so i dont really want to break down. Its been a good old machine for me and has paid for herself many times over.
The prob with her is that it doesnt take much in parts to double the value of it. Been dreaming of updating and something with a cab!
Thanks again for the replys.
 
IF the engine is a Wisconsin V-4, the engine SHOULD be idled for Five Minute before shutting down. This is to allow the engine to cool off. No one ever did this but it is what is recommended by Wisconsin.

Kent
 
I did not know what engine was used as the poster DID NOT specify. Not familiar with the machine.I knew several swathers used V-4 Wisconsin.
Since it is a Leaning Tower of Power, I am a old Slant 6 guy, he definitely has a carb/heat soak problem. One of the most important thing on a slant 6 is to have a THICK carb gasket/insulator under the carb. I had a 225 slant motor in a Dodge Dart that had a Holley one barrel on it. Once warned up it would start with a flick of the switch. The carter carb that were more widely used WOULD NOT do this. Also make sure the PVC system, If so equiped, is working correctly, as a pluged PVC system will cause the engine to run rich.

Kent

Kent
 

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