Case David Brown 885 vs. Ford 4000

I need some help deciding which one to get. The Case is clean as a whistle. The Ford could use some paint. No leaks on either tractor. The Ford pto sometimes has to be put in gear a couple of times before it starts working. Both are around $2500. Not sure of the year of the Case, but the Ford is a mid '70's. Thanks for any help.
 
A late model Ford 4000 for $2500...? It"s EITHER the deal of the century OR something terribly wrong. Average condition, they"ll fetch $4500+ here, as much as $6500 in good condition. Is it a SelectOspeed tranny by any chance?

All things being equal, and if it"s in decent shape, I"d take the Ford in a half a heartbeat. (SOS...maybe not)
 
The DB is the better tractor. Ford would win in a popularity contest, and readily available/cheap parts.


A $2500 4000 smells fishy. A $2500 885 sounds like a normal good/fair deal.
 
i've got a '80's 885...the only weak thing is the 3 point hydraulics...theres a sleeve that slips inside the control box rendering the hydraulics useless...the fix is simple but will take you a day just to uncover...make sure the 3 point works with a load BEFORE you buy.
other than that its a fantastic tractor.
 
Dunno if it matters to you but the Ford has 6,8 maybe even 10 hp on the DB depending on whose data you read.
That is a very low price for that Ford. As MF Poor says; is it a Select O Speed?
 
I had an 885 for a few years that served me well. My only complaint was getting on and off past the two sticks and fenders. I just checked out the Case IH site, looks like parts availability is probably as good as the 4000.
 
Wow , a dead heat. I'm a big Ford fan, have an 8n, but hear good things about the DB. Any ideas on the pto problem? The seller seems to think it's not too big a deal. He did say pto shaft was new. Thought clutch plates were worn or sticking. I'll check on the SOS.
 
The Ford is an all around better tractor with better parts support at this point in time. It's also got a solid 10 hp and a bunch of weight on the 885.
The question... is why anyone would sell a 4000 for 2500 bucks. That's roughly half what a good runner is worth.
Brown's wern't bad tractors but they've got some strange idosyncracies, particularly with hydraulics... and parts support plain sucks at this point.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 22:42:48 07/23/11) I need some help deciding which one to get. The Case is clean as a whistle. The Ford could use some paint. No leaks on either tractor. The Ford pto sometimes has to be put in gear a couple of times before it starts working. Both are around $2500. Not sure of the year of the Case, but the Ford is a mid '70's. Thanks for any help.

Go with the Ford but really look it over carefully. Parts availability is a big one if this tractor will be used for work and not just looking pretty in a nice shed.
 
D.B was 48 hp the Ford 62 (Flywheel), parts a heap easier to get for the Ford, DB will use nowhere near the Diesel. The Ford was nearer in Spec to the D.B.995, the D.B. 885 nearer to the Ford 3000. They will be simiar age, D.B. produced around 1972 to 1980. Ford 1964/5 to 1975/6. Both good tractors, the Ford will out perform the D.B. because it is bigger. I have had both, only the 1972 D.B.885 remains. Poor Henry got a pourous cylinder block. We only got a D.B. because we could not get a M-F 148, Perkins Engines were on strike at the time!
 
Pto problem on the 4000 is probably just a sticky control valve under the top cover. They do get crudded up and don't work well.
I fixed one a year ago for the price of a top cover gasket - $8.
Hard to believe DB will have the parts support that the Ford will have.
Maybe at the dealer...
Most any wear part for the Ford will be available aftermarket - at 1/3 to 1/2 the price of the dealer.
I've never dealt with a DB but have had a couple of 4000s. They are Very simple machines to work on.
 
Thanks for all the opinions. Here are some pics maybe opinions will change.


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I think I would keep looking. I farmed in partnership with a man that owned a DB 1200 and would not consider a David Brown at any price. The Ford looks pretty beat to me.
 
is it for a working tractor? if your going to work it buy the ford, its relitivly easy to understand, and parts are easy to get, the david brown is a good tractor, but a volvo is a good car, the problem with both is when you have to fix it parts are hard to find and you have much downtime while searching, if this is for a restored parade tractor either will work
 
That ford is an odball being an orchard model and likely will not have adjustable wheel tread, unless you want for orchard use and willing to pay $2,000 to rebuild the PTO stay away. clutch packs and everything else inside needs replaced, had that problem with both a 4000 and 5000.
The DB cannot get parts for, neighbor has one that has been tore down for 10? years cannot get the parts for PTO hydrolicks, replaced with a 4000 (4200)row crop with a wide front end. Stay away from both and look for something good and that you can get parts for.
 
I would have to go with the David Brown.I have an 880 that I have used for haying the last several year and have had almost no problems.As far as finding parts most items can be found online.I just now trying to sell it because I am needing more hp.If it wasn't for that I would hang on to it because it is so dependable
 
I was leaning towards the Ford. Now I'm not sure. Definitely don't want to have to do any major internal repairs. I was told the Fords injector pump was recently rebuilt also. I'm not a big fan of the orchard fenders myself, I wonder if they can be replaced. They are kinda ugly to me. The tractor will be used to plow, and disc, and eventually rototill 2 to 3 acres food plots and possibly hay 10 to 15 acres in the future. And just be a general utility tractor for upwards of 40 acres.
 
If you want to roto-till the DB is the no brain required winner. The Ford only has one gear that is suitable, and generally I find it too fast. The Brown has 4 gears that would be suitable depending on conditions(LS1, LS2, HS1, L1)


The fenders on the DB aren't right. Don 't know what they are off of but not a DB. If your pictures weren't so fuzzy I could tell you more.
 
The Ford looks rough but it may still be OK. The PTO may or may not be bad. The hesitation is more likely a problem with the pump's pickup or the control valve. Mine has done that for as long as I can remember. With that said... mine is also now at the point where it needs an output shaft and a clutch rebuild... but after 7500 hours... it doesn't really owe me anything... and it did a LOT of hard PTO work it's whole life.

As far as the fenders go... they can be changed if you can find a good set. Anything from any Ford 3 cylinder that has that axle will fit, rollbar included. Where it's an orchard it may have queer lift arms as well. Without seeing the back end I can't tell you for sure.
I can also tell you that the steering setup on that tractor is not correct for a 73. I think that setup was last used up to May '68 after which they went to an intergral assist unit. Engines also used a cartridge type oil filter until '72 I think... this one has a spin on... so the engine is either not original or it has a spin on conversion.
The tractor is probably priced fairly but I'd also expect to put some more into it before it's really straight.

Rod
 
Hopefully these will help. Belly sprayer has been removed. Tractor was used in orange groves. DB pics are fuzzy because I copied them from craigslist.

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I'd leave the ford there waiting for the scrap truck.......... Like the looks of the other one but know nothing about them. Keep looking and find you a decent ford.

Dave
 
(quoted from post at 13:09:52 07/24/11) Thanks for all the opinions. Here are some pics maybe opinions will change.


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Hey remember sheet metal can be deceiving. For all we know someone could have throw some paint on the DB and slapped on some new sheet metal. If this is for WORK go with the FORD.
 
(quoted from post at 00:43:36 07/25/11) Don't write off the old girl just because she's ugly. A little TLC and she will work her heart out for you. They are great tractors.

<img src="http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h56/Ultradog/4000/P1010021.jpg">

Exactly!!!!!!!! Great point Ultradog!!!!!!!! Below is a picture of my Ford that has been nothing but stand up for since I removed the loader and have used it in my orchards. No, it's not the same model but the idea is the same. It's ugly and I know would be scoffed at by many members on this site if I put it for sale. What's great about this tractor? It's cheap to run and easy to work on.

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2 things on the Ford and one may not be a problem and that is that it would have a fixed wheel tread that may not work with a plow and then there may not be a 3 point hitch also that would work with a plow. Those he can lok at and see if they would cause a problem. The other BIG thing is that pto not working and on mine, 2 tractors when it would not work was a major problem, the one with a cab had to even remove the cab enought to split the tractor to repair the pto and at that time was in the thousand dollar range to repair, nothing simple about those independent pto's. Now being an orchard model it may have only the 4 speed transmission and no independant or live pto instead of the normal 8 speed transmission and independant pto. Now what cost over a thousand on my tractors would be up to $2,500 or more to get that pto rebuilt. If it was a normal model with a good pto I would say go for it but bad pto will cost more to repair than an engine overhaul and he would have in $6,000 before getting in the field to use. Could buy a good working and looking tractor for that money.
 
Pto "works strong , just takes switching it over a couple times to get it going" according to the seller.
Non live pto or hydraulics is a deal breaker.

I want to say this is a standard model , it just has the large fenders, for thorny orange trees, but I could be mistaken. Seller says hydraulics work good, no leak down.
 
The more I look at the Ford... the more it says to me that it's prior to May 68. Steering, PS/pump, engine oil filter all say prior. Hood/front shell appears to be later...
The other concerning thing is the amount of grime on the left rear wheel. That generally indicates a bad wheel seal with is about 50 bucks worth of seal and half a day worth of bull work. The axle housing has to come off and pull the guts out to get the shaft out, pull the outer bearing, then change the seal.

I'd still go with the Ford for the money but plan on putting some money into it.

Rod
 
So, I found another one.. This is a IH 784, with a 8' woods bush hog, for around the same price. Hopefully gonna take a look at it .tomorrow. Suppose to need a new seat, and a new ignition switch. Was rebuilt 2 years ago. We will see how she looks. Everything else suppose to work strong.
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(quoted from post at 21:05:17 07/25/11) So, I found another one.. This is a IH 784, with a 8' woods bush hog, for around the same price. Hopefully gonna take a look at it .tomorrow. Suppose to need a new seat, and a new ignition switch. Was rebuilt 2 years ago. We will see how she looks. Everything else suppose to work strong.
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There ya go!!! Hope it's OK.

Dave
 

Just remember that whatever older tractor you get there is going to be some repairs needed. Unless you're rolling in cash you're going to have to get your hands dirty and fix it up yourself.
 
Yes, expecting some repairs, but major interal stuff I don't want to fool with. So I plan on making sure pto, hydraulics, and internal engine seems strong. To the best of my ability anyway, without tearing it completely apart.. Gonna check all fluids, leaks, and exhaust. Should hopefully get a good idea. And if the pto and hydraulics are strong, I'm gonna buy it.

Even though I prefer a Ford, does anyone have an opinion on this 784.

Thanks,
 

Pictures are fuzzy, but the 784 is an early one with inline shift, has pretty small rears for a 784.

Make sure the brakes and parking brake work unless you plan on tearing into it....
 
(quoted from post at 18:07:11 07/26/11)
Pictures are fuzzy, but the 784 is an early one with inline shift, has pretty small rears for a 784.

Make sure the brakes and parking brake work unless you plan on tearing into it....

Can you elaborate on inline shift? Unable to see tractor today . Having trouble reaching seller.

Have researched brake issue. Thanks
 

Inline shift means the speed lever uses the "lightning bolt" pattern where you shift through 2 and 3 to get to 1st from 4th and no neutral spot. The later tractors used a H pattern with a neutral on the speed lever.

Shift pattern is just preference.
 

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