Tricks of the trade???

Goose

Well-known Member
Does anyone have any tricks of the trade?

This is the hub on a rear wheel on a D19 Allis. I need to pop it loose to remove the wheel and replace the axle seal. The hub is tapered into the wheel with bolts to draw it tight on the axle. The bolts have been removed. The tire and rim have already been removed for another reason.

Originally, there were special bolts that threaded into the holes to push the tapered hub out of the wheel, but I don't have them, and for all practical purposes there are none around. I'm thinking of maybe cutting three pieces of half inch rod the proper length and screwing 3/4 inch bolts to push against them.

It's entirely possible the hub has not been removed since the tractor left the factory. It's been in our family since 1974, and I don't recall ever having them removed.

Thanks in advance if anyone knows any tricks.
a45399.jpg
 
No real tricks, but it's probably a lot like moving old John Deere wheels. I don't know how these hubs are made but any system that keeps the pressure between the wheel and the hub should work. So your idea may be fine. Put the pressure on and keep tightening every day or so. Penetrants may help, but don't do much good in my opinion. A little heat on the outer component will expand it and loosen things. You don't want it red hot, just enough to cause it to expand. Rapping on the exposed parts with a 3# hammer while turning the wheel to evenly spread the blows will help jar things loose. Time is your buddy, just keep at it and keep the pressure on. It'll probably sound like a rifle shot when it does break loose if it's really tight. Good luck with it. Even if you do end up breaking something it will be external, not inside the tractor and therefore easier to replace.
 
Without the jack screws you are Sk@@@@. They are hard to get loose with the jack screws. Your 1/2 threaded rod will be a waste of time. Not enough push and they will bend too easy. The factory jack screws are standard thread. They just have the threads cut back from the end so if they get mushroomed they can still be taken back out. I have taken regular grade 8 bolts and ground a relief on them to use as jack bolts. Then when they are tight hit the outer hub with a sledge hammer right at the out side of the taper. Don"t hit the center out away from the taper you can crack the casting.
 
Well 1st trick is to get ALL the paint and rust off the axle and the snap ring, then put some oil on it so the hub can slid on the axle, 2 nd trick get good hard bolts oil them up good screw them in there TIGHT! now RAP them 3 bolts HARD with a 4 or 6 pound hammer ONE time! then get them 3 bolts TIGHT again then RAP them hard again. keep tighiting the bolts TIGHT and raping them HARD, that hub will come right off it's in good shape yet. You can also TAP a small thin chisel into the slot on the hub be carefull with the chisel DON"T hit it HARD or you WILL break the hub just TAP it in there
 
Should of told you that when you get the bolts, to get them 3/4 of a" longer so the head never come in contract with the hub, will also need threads all the way to the head.
 
The jack screws are a standard size and a standard thread..... just not a standard thread for the size bolt they are on. You can get them from Agco still, I think I priced them at around $30 each last year, you need 4.
 
If you can put a tire on and drive the tractor around then you can put the bolts back in but leave them backed out about a quarter of an inch, put penetrating oil on the hub and axle also the taper, drive the tractor around until you see there has been some movement then it should come off. Clean the axle off first.
WaltMo
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top