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no baler slip clutch

A

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Traded for a MF 12 baler to catch up a hay debt. without giving it a good lookover , figured scrapprice . baler has little wear and seems to have seen little use or proper care . baled ok after new knotter return wiper armsprings,,oddly someone cobble-welded the yoke to the flywheel AND drilled out the shear bolt to a 1/2inch bolt!!!,, debter got it from a farm supply jockey , who picked it up from a butcherhackerpicker ,,, it is highly unlikely the bolt will ever shear , however should the baler have a slipclutch ? , i was always of the belief that the slip clutch is necessary to keep from gutting the dry clutch out of a tractor , especially the little 20 horse tractors of the 50s,.. my 800 Case is wet clutch, , so maybe no big deal if i bale with it .. but my 430 case pto is dry, with wet traction clutch ,,. do i have reason to be concerned ?... weigh in with your thoughts guys ...jh
 
I do not see where a properly installed slip clutch would hurt any thing. And...as you stated in your thoughts, it just might prevent damaging the clutch in the tractor.

I run a slip clutch and an "under power rated" gear box on my home built brush hog for the very same reasons you stated above.

JMHO....RICK
 
I was taught that the slip clutch should slip a little on every plungerhead stroke under load.

My only real experience is with JD sq balers. All of them since the 214 & 14T models have slip clutches to protect the baler pto shafts. When flywheel shear bolt breaks if powered by a large enough tractor one can keep baling if slip clutch is TOO tight or frozen/rusted. On the other hand if plungerhead stop causes shear pin to break then slip clutch must slip or baler pto shaft will be twisted.
 
Jim, My experience has always been that when shear bolts break that the PTO shaft spins free with no load. Could you enlighten me?
 
showcrop
What brand hay baler are you referring to. I have very,very limited experience working on or baling with a NH but no other brands other than JD. On a JD the shear bolt only powers the flywheel and nothing else. If shear pin hole in arm and bushing get worn enough I've seen a shear pin shear while baling with no noise and baler will keep running if slip clutch is too tight or frozen
 
reclarification the masey 12 baler does not have a slip clutch on the flyweheel , some ya-wo removed it and welded the yoke direct, then put a larger bolt in the flywheel
 
I don't want to say for sure,but I don't think a New Holland 66 or an IH 46 had a slip clutch. I don't think the first of the smaller,more modern looking Case balers did either. Been better than 30 years since I baled a square bale,so my memory might be a little fuzzy.
 
Slip clutch protects the baler. I would be more concerned about no overrunning clutch as it protects the tractor. If either tractor has live pto then probably no problem. If you have a ground drive pto then baler flywheel can push tractor into places/things that you do not want!
 
Shear bolt on my NH baler is 5/16.Better put a bushing in the hole.I have baled with a MF baler, nicest running baler Ive ever used.Fix it up right, you need a slip and over running clutch.Shear bolt cuts all power to the baler.
 
I'd bush that shear bolt back to about 5/16" so it can perform as intended. The bushings should be hardened to prevent wallowing out if the bolts are sheared enough times. Some machines were made with bushings in the shear bolt holes for that reason. If the hole for the shear bolt aren't in good shape, the bolt stretches then shears at less load than intended, making for nuisance shut-downs. My old, old IH 45 has both shear bolts and a slip clutch, but I'm not sure on newer balers.
 
My NH 268 has a slip clutch, and a shear pin. There are times that slip clutch does it"s thing, protecting baler and shear pin. I have no trouble having both - more protection for expensive parts.
 
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