(800) 853-2651
SHOP NOW

How many of you would buy cheap vs extremely expensive?

B

blunosr

Member
I ordered two new front rims without realizing where they were coming from. I ordered A&I rims for $67ea, as opposed to another type for $440ea. RodinNS tells me that the cheap rims are from Turkey, and the expensive ones are from either US or Britain. So my questions is, how many of you would pay $440 for a domestic rim vs $67 for the rim made in Turkey?

Presumably both rims are made in factories, using similar processes, with the same intended use for the product. The real difference would presumably be in the material type/quality. Is the material quality that much superior for the domestic rims?

Another point is that the raw material cost can't be that much different, even if domestic is vastly superior. Aside from patriotism, how do we justify the difference in cost?

Thanks,

Troy Boyd
 
Paying about 7 times as much for a product is nonsense. Turkey is a friendly country and so is England. Jim
 
it is always better to support the people at home first butwhy should you have to eat bologna so they can eat steak
 
Dollars to donuts they are both made in the same factory. Milk is, no mater the label, BTDT, oil is refined and sent to whoever pays for it that day, even toy trains, x girlfreind thought we could get in the 'model industry' spoke chinese, made an appointment to visit a model factory in Shanghai. She asks what brands they make, managers said "oh, all brands, we make everything for every company around the world" then he smiled and said" that is why we have to be very careful to pack products in the right box!" Hey I got a cousin is northern New york, seamstress, had a contract. Open a box from thailand, with silk scarfs. All have a tag that says 'Julia's- product of Thailand' she picks this off with a little razor, cleans the spot and grabs a tag from another little box, a label, it has 'Pierre Carden du Paris- fabrique en France'..... buz buz, snip snip, she couldn't care less, that was a job, she had bills to pay, people like to pay for Pierre Carden... quality is worth the extra money.
 
Troy, Here at work and in my own life I try to by US made or local, It helps us out. But always try to at least shop around. The economey sucks around here so If I can run an account at NAPA for $2000 a month at least I was able to keep local cash local.
 
Those $440 wheels must be the designer model with with an alligator or snake skin applique. Perhaps Martha Stewart uses them on her Farmall H. As you can see, I think there is a sucker born every minute. This is particularly true for those who spend $5000 on a handbag or $1,000,000 on a Bugatti.

Were Pontiacs and Oldsmobiles any better than Chevys? I think the market has figured that one out.
 
Are you sure you are getting the same rims????? Used to get this all of the time on JD 4020 front rims. The OEMS ones are $155 each (today"s price) but they weight 27.25 lbs each. The ones from A&I for the front are $69 each but they only weight 19.7 lbs each. Even though we could get A&I rims we kept the OEM JD ones because most of the guys breaking rims had loaders on them. The JD ones held up. The A&I ones did not.

The difference is in the thickness of the metal used. The center is very important on steering rims. Wagon wheels can carry a lot of weight but bend easy when use on a tractor front. Different stresses caused by steering. Also the off set can be very different for the same tire size and bolt pattern wheel. You never said what tractor, bolt pattern or tire size.

I have found that it pays to shop around on New Holland/Ford parts. I just repaired a NH 355 grinder mixer gear box. I deal with two different Ford/NH dealers. I don"t get a discount at either one but the parts bill was $289 dollars different between the two. I even checked the High dealer twice to make sure there was not a mistake by either of us.
 
Sure it is. Keep telling yourself Turkey is friendly.

Turkey is a secular state with no official state religion; the Turkish Constitution provides for freedom of religion and conscience. nnalert is the dominant religion of Turkey, adhered to by about 97% of the population, a figure that exceeds 99% if secular people of nnalert background are included. Research firms suggest the actual nnalert figure is around 98%, or 97%
 
(quoted from post at 00:00:49 06/02/11) Sure it is. Keep telling yourself Turkey is friendly.
Click to expand...

Ever been there? How many Turks do you know? Why would you swing the OP's thread to religion anyway???

As to the original question, #1 priority is my and my family's economy and quality of life. When both are good, I am more prepared to support someone elses. I buy what makes sense (and cents).

A hundred buck part may last 10 years and a 20 buck part 5 years. Don't take a genious to do the math.
 
The answer, as always, is "it depends". For a work tractor, it's easy enough to justify the more expensive part. My tractor only gets used around the yard and it's pretty hard to justify spending 900 bucks just for rims on a tractor that's worth about three grand.

I have an old Mott flail mower and parts are getting very expensive for it. Every year I have to do the math as to whether I should fix it or junk it. A couple of years ago I needed to replace the "torsion bar", which is actually the roller axle on the oldest Motts. The replacement part from Mott was over 300 bucks, which is more than the mower is worth. I had Montage weld me up a replacement for a hundred bucks. The original is solid spring steel, the replacement is mild steel tubing. Clearly the OEM part is better, but the cheaper replacement will last the remaining life of the mower, which is good enough.
 
By definition, an ally is a friendly country. The US and Turkey have been allied through NATO since 1952. Turkey has been a member of NATO longer than Germany and Spain, not to mention the former eastern bloc countries like Poland and the Czech Republic.
 
OF course it depends on the intended use and safety. I priced rear drums for a Camry and Napa wanted like 45 a piece. Found ones for $15. Get them home and out of the box and it looked like someone made them in their back yard forge. Outside was all bumpy and out of round. Had to take them back.
I tried to buy everything I can used. New prices are and have been going up on everything for years. Even though the gov. says inflation is low or non existent.
Pete
 
No, I have not been to Turkey. Have you been to
Turkey?

Glad you factored down time into your $20 vs $100
comparison. And what happens when that $20 part
causes a $150 part to break. Is that covered?

Doesn't take a genius to figure out you can't
compare apples to oranges and be very effective.
 
If it is the same, then why is the A&I part so
much cheaper? What corners have they cut to get
it that cheap?

I would ask you to look at hydraulic oil for
example. How can TSC, Atwoods or Farm & Fleet
sell 5 gal of hydraulic oil for $28 when OEM
fluids are around $65. What corners are they
cutting?

How many of you are running SuperTech engine oil.
It says it meets the specs. Why don't we all run
it instead of penzoil, quaker state, castrol,
mobil and shell?
 
theres a difference.. the jd rims are made in south america...

and yes.. they are a bit heavier..
 
If you want the specifics... I've had a couple of A&I wheels now that were not concentric... so when I went to place the center dish in the wheel I ended up needing to bend the wheel nearly 3/4" to get the last three lugs mounted and get the dish seated on the lugs. It's a quality control issue. Wether it's just sloppy work, poor forming or they have a bad jig/fixture... I don't know but I know I had two wheels exactly the same. They're also thinner and softer. You hit a Sankey wheel with a hammer.... it's fairly hard. These things were quite soft.
So from my point of view you're getting better steel and you're getting better quality control. The other factor is that NH (and most other mainlines) parts systems and inventory systems are costly to operate... so there's a lot of overhead built into that price. Then the warehouse level markup is added... then the dealer markup... and no doubt there is a considerable oppertunity markup in some cases as well.
A&I can cherry pick what parts they want to carry, keep minimal stock, keep their overhead down, etc... so they have an oppertunity there to sell for quite a bit less money... on top of often times selling a lower quality product. That's not always the case either. It's not that I want to malign them as they do sell a lot of good stuff too... but that's just how it works when they're sourcing bottom dollar parts from far off places. Sometimes the ball gets dropped.

Wether or not it's worth the cost to buy the expensive stuff... that's a judgement call. For me it is because I know that stuff gets worked HARD around here. For someone who's not working ti so hard or carrying heavy loads... mabey the cheaper stuff will work fine and save you a bunch of money... but they way I see your situation... you have a loader on a 5000. The OEM wheels were nothing extra to start with for carrying that kind of weight. Going to something that is cheap and perhaps suspect in quality... it's probably going to fail sooner than later. It's not really worth it to me to wreck a tire or hub or axle to save some money on a wheel.

Rod
 
The extra $373 goes in part to pay the factory worker's union dues so that Richard Trumka can afford his luxury lifestyle.
 
I guess I should add... I know some wheels that A&I sells are made in the US by Unverferth. Which particular ones they are... I don't know... but that's what I was told by my dealer and he's generally quite knowledgeable (and honest) about such things with me.
I'm thinking that the aftermarket price you got in one place was Unverferth and the other was Turkish...


Rod
 
Actually, I do run SuperTech oils in my stuff. It has not caused any problems at all. I have a van with 210,000 miles that uses no oil.

slim
 
My self I would go with option #3 and find a good used one as some tractor dealer or salvage place and then clean it up and then paint it and use it. But I do keep 2 or 3 spares around just in case I have a flat on a tractor or machine
 
I actually buy the cheap oil most times... I will buy an engine oil that is perhaps a bit more expensive... but then again... the Canadian Tire engine oil is not cheap to start with. The way I look at that... if the engine is burning it; probably not so good. If it stops burning oil; probably a bit better oil. If you watch it close enough you see that.
As far as hydraulic oil goes... it's cheap stuff all the way. Walmart or Canadian Tire TDH. It meets the specs for the Ford's I run. I don't believe that it's likely to exceed the specs in the way that the some of the more expensive or OEM oils would as it's no doubt just got the minimal additive package... but at the rate that transfusions take place around here the last while... I'll do with the cheap stuff. If I ever get caught up on some of the leaks and old hoses then mabey I'll look at going back to something of a better grade like Esso Hydraul 56 or something similar. But as it stands right now it's cheaper to add than it is to fix some of the leaks... which is to say fixing the leaks will be quite expensive.

Rod
 
Rod,
134a is a 10w30 and Hytran is a 10wt. Amazing that most of the buckets say it meets the spec of both hytran and 134. How can this be? You pour it into a red tractor it is one weight and in a blue tractor it is another? Most technologically advanced oil on the market I tell you what.
 
With liability being what it is today they seem to be pretty carefull about not putting anything on the pail anymore. That said... I do not recall seeing anything meeting Hy-Tran specs on a bucket that met Ford 134D specs. They are two quite distinct oils by weight. Even today CNH maintains Hy-Tran and Hy-Tran Ultra. I think those are old/new spec in that order. The Ultra is equivelant (the same) as 134D...

Beyond that... the weight is the only real difference between them. The additive package would be roughly the same as they serve the same purpose. You could also keep in mind that the offer two weights for summer and winter service as well...

Rod
 
Troy I was in the tire business for over 20 years, we learned early on there was a difference in farm rims. When I started the fellows were just starting to haul big bales with front end loaders. At first we could only get the light rims and turned away business because we didnot want a customeer to be broke down along the road with a broken light duty on his tractor. We always refered those guys needing heaver rims to the JD dealer, because JD is the only dealer in town. They would kick about the price, but when I had them pick up the light duty rim and the one they got from Deere, the price was justified. I could not justify $440.00 for a rim unless it was for a front wheel assist tractor.
 
Well, I've already ordered the cheap rims, so I'll clean up and paint my old ones (one of which is rusted so bad there's a hole in it), and keep them around for spares. That's the trouble with a 1966 tractor, all the used ones are probably just as bad as mine.

I did get my Firestone 3-rib tires yesterday though, so I'm happy about that. Those made in China tires just made me nervous. And the difference in price on those was only $30/tire.

Thanks,

Troy
 
Some certian ethnic lawyer has sued the American manufacturer $200 worth, plus $100 in osha compliance, $50 in epa, $50 in taxes. The $15 bucks an hour they pay some poor ba$tard to stand there & spit them out goes a long way, because he has far fewer man hours in them than any far east manufacturing teqniques would alow.
 
Rod,

You are completely wrong. These are two very different oils. 134 in Case IH is known as Nexplore. HyTran in New Holland is known as MasterTran. These oils have different formulations and additive packs. HyTran/Mastertran will hold 1% of its volume in water. 134/Nexplore will not even come close.

Many of those companies that make the yellow bucket oil may still be putting "recommended" for use labels and list the oils. I ask that you show us where their test lab is at.

This is like saying a Chevy truck and Ford truck are the same. They may both be trucks, but after that, things are very different.
 
The students I have had that are Turkish are well adjusted Mediterranean European learners. They study hard and have fine respectful manors. Jim
 
Oh, spare me the crap. Those oils serve the same purpose in both tractors and the designs of older IH and Ford's were quite similar. The Ford's will not especially like the lower viscosity hyTran in hot weather and the IH's may not like the higher vis 134D in cold weather but for all intents and purposes they do the same thing.
Both are a primary GL4 gear lube for trans/differential and both have friction modifiers for wet brakes/clutches.

The only recomendation I see on the yellow buckets anymore is that it's recomended for use in farm tractors as a transmission/drivetrain/hydraulic oil (TDH).
I've been using it for 5-7 years now with no problems... and the brake noise went away compared to another brand I was using previously...

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 03:27:30 06/02/11) No, I have not been to Turkey. Have you been to
Turkey?

Glad you factored down time into your $20 vs $100
comparison. And what happens when that $20 part
causes a $150 part to break. Is that covered?

Doesn't take a genius to figure out you can't
compare apples to oranges and be very effective.
Click to expand...

Haven't been to the country itself, but there arer buttloads of Turks in Germany. Just like anybody else, some real standup folks and also some losers. As for nnalert, there are wackos in every organised religion. Give someone a bible to thump and they'll be trying to play their own tune and get others to sing along before the day is over. Bad thing with the ragheads is when you get a wacko telling a bunch of followers that can't read what the book says to do.......... Better stop before I sacrifice my people skills.............
 
You said it perfectly. Recommended. But recommended by whom? Do you see major test facilities where they get new deere, new holland, case ih and massey tractors and test them with their recommended oils?
If you can find those test facilities where those guys are running all those new tractors in the fields and putting thousands of hours on let me know. I would really like to see them testing all those tractors and seeing them run.
Good Luck!
 
I would assume that they're recomended by that particular supplier based on a set of known specifications...
At the end of the day all of that oil wether it be CNH branded or Walmart branded... it's all made to a spec by perhaps a few different companies... and the actuall supplier could change at any time.
I think when you get right down to it... what went in the Ford pail was really just what Esso had on offer at the time and what goes in the Ambra pail today is simply what FL Viscosity has on offer presently. TDH is probably no different...
What I know for certain is that I've not had any problems with it.


Rod
 

The only thing that I know of that I have bought for my tractor and was made in Turkey, is my power steering conversion kit for my Ford 3000.

It seemed to be heavy duty and good quality and fit up was good. I did have to file down a small ridge on one of the pieces so it would go on the spindle easier. But all in all I'm very happy with it.
 
(quoted from post at 03:33:26 06/02/11) If it is the same, then why is the A&I part so
much cheaper? What corners have they cut to get
it that cheap?

I would ask you to look at hydraulic oil for
example. How can TSC, Atwoods or Farm & Fleet
sell 5 gal of hydraulic oil for $28 when OEM
fluids are around $65. What corners are they
cutting?

How many of you are running SuperTech engine oil.
It says it meets the specs. Why don't we all run
it instead of penzoil, quaker state, castrol,
mobil and shell?
Click to expand...

Conversely, how much of the price of a "brand name" product is in a flashy logo and fancy packaging, or better still, nothing at all???

The biggest problem with the "free market system" is that people are free to charge whatever they want, for no reason at all... and manufacturers take advantage of that. They charge whatever the market will bear with little regard for the actual value of the product plus a reasonable profit margin.
 
Well, you are wrong. There is not industry specifications for hydraulic oil.

New Holland and Case IH most definitely have a spec for their oils.

IH went to FL Viscosity oil when they needed a superior lubricant for the transmission issues they were having with the 60 series tractors. They created the additive package and no one else has ever created that additive package. When Hytran/MasterTran is mixed in foreign countries, they ship the additive package there to be mixed in.

You can say that they are all the same and you have not had issues, but when small leaks start occurring because seal and oring conditioners were not correctly added, you won't blame the oil. You will blame the tractor. This is common.

You probably think Shell Rotella T is the same as MasterGold or No 1, even though Rotella T has 40% less anti-wear additive.
 
You know, there are other countries that don't have a free market system, why don't you go there, you'll be much happier. As will we without you here running down America, our Constitution, the Free Market system, and Capitalism in general.

Commie loser.
 
Check out HOW ITS MADE on the learning channel I was watching one day when they were filling one litre jugs , they started with ford ,then switched to shell , then to mopar etc
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
"US" Firestones?
Replies
7
Views
2K
eastexan
E
A
OT: Tricks we used in our energy efficient house
Replies
19
Views
4K
Anonymous-0
A
Tractor Parts Tractor Manuals

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Copyright © 1997-2024 Yesterday's Tractor Co.

All Rights Reserved. Reproduction of any part of this website, including design and content, without written permission is strictly prohibited. Trade Marks and Trade Names contained and used in this Website are those of others, and are used in this Website in a descriptive sense to refer to the products of others. Use of this Web site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement and Privacy Policy TRADEMARK DISCLAIMER: Tradenames and Trademarks referred to within Yesterday's Tractor Co. products and within the Yesterday's Tractor Co. websites are the property of their respective trademark holders. None of these trademark holders are affiliated with Yesterday's Tractor Co., our products, or our website nor are we sponsored by them. John Deere and its logos are the registered trademarks of the John Deere Corporation. Agco, Agco Allis, White, Massey Ferguson and their logos are the registered trademarks of AGCO Corporation. Case, Case-IH, Farmall, International Harvester, New Holland and their logos are registered trademarks of CNH Global N.V.

Yesterday's Tractors - Antique Tractor Headquarters
Website Accessibility Policy

Back
Top