good used farm tractor

any suggestions on buying a good used farm tractor between 120 to 150 hp i know delta red will tell me IHC lol

Yep he is wright , most bang for the buck.Easy on fuel easy to repair good lugging and decent handling . a good 1066 will fit wright into what your looking for . If ya want cab heat and a/C then a 1086 If you want more pony power then a 1466-86 . Don't go by what the MFG. states on H/P as myself i have never seen a stock set 1066 yet . Most that i have been around are in the 150 and above range. Then you look at my buddy's 1066 and she is over the 200 mark.

Depends on how much you plan to use it and dealer support. If you want a cab a Deere 4430 might be a good choice. If you maintain it well the value will not drop a lot in 10 years.
The "other colors" are cheaper and will do the same work. For example, you can buy an Allis Chalmers for a lot less than a Deere but parts support may be an issue and who knows what resale value will be in 10 years.
There are lots of choices in between these two brands.
Suggest you ask your friends and go to some auctions, etc.

yep for the 1066!

Hard to beat a White 2-135 for price or otherwise.

You're right.But there are other colors that will work just as well.But it is hard to beat a 1066-unless its a 14**.

Adeere willuse more fuel than all of them .A ford(9600/9700) will be the most economical.

Heavy draft loads? Three point hitch or drawbar
loads? Any pto work? Rowcrop or open fields? Hills,
mud and snow? Sand,loam or clay soil? Local dealers,
which brand gives a hoot and cares about customers?

Any color will work. Get one with a nice quiet comfortable cab, you
will not regret that investment.

fuel is a big thing these days it is not cheap up here diesel clear i think is 1.15 per litre or maybe more now i burn offroad it is 1.05 per litre

Neighbor had 4 1086s brand new, that he turn up to 200 hp, could keep a clutch or a T/A in pulling 9 shank chisels. Over 200 hp and you need MFWD to get the power to the ground or more weight than that chassis will stand.

If I were looking for cheap and reliable I would agree with the 1066/1086 IH. Those are a hard tractor to beat. I spent many many hours on an open station 1066 and would do it again if I had to. Would start every morning not plugged in during the coldest fall weather, good on fuel, hydraulics were a bit lacking but that’s the only complaint I have with that tractor.

If I could find a deal on one a 4430/4630 would work too. Cabs are a bit nicer than the 1066 about the same as 1086 (both have ups and downs) As for fuel consumption I never found that the 4430 here used any more than the 1066. Had better hydraulics and I like the operation of the 3 point hitch a bit better. I like the closed center hydraulics better to, but I know that can lead to headaches when things go bad. But still a good traction in my opinion.

As for the comment about the 9600/9700, I can’t believe anyone that has run those things would actually recommend them. I just got done helping my dad out planting and working ground with his TW10 and TW20 (pictures will follow in Ford Forum). Those are the most miserable tractors to operate. The loud knocking obnoxious engines start harder than heck, they are parent bore so they are expensive to overhaul, fuel eating SOBs, the hydraulic couplers stink and are in a miserable location to get to, the hydraulics themselves stink because you have pressure but no flow and being open center you can’t run 2 functions at once – you even lose the 3pt when you operate a remote, the operation of the diff lock stinks along with the location of it, power steering pumps and water pumps constantly poop out, both have had AC problem after AC problem, the electrical systems and gauge sets are a disaster – still haven’t seen a X700 or TW series that all gauges work, parts are expensive, for this area the closest dealer is a hour and a half drive, can’t find anyone that knows anything about them when problems arise, the front axle pins are welded to the axle so they are non replaceable, power adjust wheels. The cabs are loud, you can no longer get all the glass for the cab, can’t get door seals, can’t get window seals, on the X700 and TW series the doors are all bent where they pass over the fender extension pieces because of ice or the limiting rod separating, the dual power is about 3 times the cost of a torque amplifier. The only good thing I can say about them is I do like the foot accelerator.

If you can find a 1066 that hasnt been turned up and run hard, may be. Personally I have no desire to be the second or third owner of one of those grenades. If you want cheap, a Case would fit the bill, but the powershift can be a weak point if not well cared for. May be look for one with the manual transmission. A 5020 JD is about as rugged as you can find. If the old 531 is whipped, swap in a 619 from a forage harvester and nothing else 2wd will touch it. I woundnt be afraid of a big Ford either. My 2 cents (more than you paid)

true and you dont have to go to the green parts store every day