john deere 4430 a/c recharge

Vacuum the system dry and leak check. Repair/replace leaking o'rings and seals. Re-vacuum. Add synthetic lube and 134A coolant. Tune the amount of freon via blower outlet temp and manifold gauge pressures.
 
(quoted from post at 00:01:17 05/14/11) Vacuum the system dry and leak check. Repair/replace leaking o'rings and seals. Re-vacuum. Add synthetic lube and 134A coolant. Tune the amount of freon via blower outlet temp and manifold gauge pressures.

On a 80 degree day what would be some good blower outlet temps?

Do you keep adding a little bit of 134A until it no longer gets colder?
 
I think before I did that,I'd just go to the auto parts store and get one of those 134a conversion kits. I changed a 4040 that was leaking out a couple of times a week with one and it stayed charged. There's supposed to be some kind of sealant or something in there that fixes slow leaks. I changed my 85 Ford pickup with it about eight or nine years ago with it too and that's still working. Last I knew those kits were only about $35. Sure enough worth a shot,especially since I had a neighbor in the refrigeration business who was soaking me $100 a shot to stop in and recharge that 4040.
Just follow the instructions in the kit. Once you have the kit and have it changed over,you can buy those cans of 134a for a couple of bucks and recharge it if it gets weak.
 
you should have a 55 to 60 degree temp at the outlet firthest from the evaporator core. with a 134a conversion from the old r12, you need to replace the compressor oil with esther oil. also, what ever the r12 capacity of the system was, you use about 80 % of the 134a. evac the system and pull a vaccuum on it for about 45 minutes to an hour to remove any moisture from the system. hold the vacuum on the system for at least half an hour and look for a vaccuum drop. if so there is a leak. there is a u/v dye kit, napa has em along with a small u/v light and a pair of yellow glasses. charge the system with 134 and add the dye. run the system for about an hour or so , the shut it off and use the glasses an the u/v light to locate the leak. check all hoses, fitting, compressor seals and a/c condenser.
 
oh, one other thing, r 134 just went way up. we bought a 30 pounder for the shop a couple days ago, $268.00. getting as bad as r-12
 
wrong you should vac down fix components and accurately measure r-134a into system using a digital scales.I make a lot of money every year from "hacks and jack legs"doing something they know nothing about.Outlet temp only counts if all the other components are working correctly!
 
A 4430? Best to put some gauges on it to see if any charge is left. Those tractors are very prone to having the line in the left rear cab corner rust out.If the line has never been replaced, I would bet it has rusted out .
 
Lets see you write a two sentence Coles Notes version. Saying that the proper equipment and experience is required. To avoid damaging equipment and blotching the job.
 
(quoted from post at 02:28:02 05/14/11) oh, one other thing, r 134 just went way up. we bought a 30 pounder for the shop a couple days ago, $268.00. getting as bad as r-12

WOW. :shock: I just bought a 30 pounder for $199 at Sam's club. Everyone needs to stock up if you have alot of equipment, cars, or trucks that use r134. It will be like money in the bank in the future. 8)
 
Hello buickanddeere,
You do need a vacuum pump to service an open A/C OR REFRIGERATION SYSTEM. You do create a vacuum TO SERVICE the system. The vacuum (negative pressure) will remove moisture from the system.
You do not however vacuun the system.
The procedure is called: evacuating the system.
Guido.
 
What the he11 did you just say? You need some queludes to settle down!Charging the way you have instructed can lead to a serious overcharging and a potentially dangerous situation.
 

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