Brake Story

miangus · Mar 4, 2022

I stopped at a friends and he had his girl friends car on his hoist doing a brake job, 2014 Ford Fiesta. The pads were actual toast. We went to the parts store and got new pads but they didn't have the stainless steel inserts. When we went to install the pads they wouldn't go in. After inspection we realized that there appeared to be rust under the inserts. We removed the brake frame from the spindle pried out the inserts and used an angle grinder to clean out the slot the inserts set in installed the old inserts and put everything together. The new shoes fit perfect. While we had the frame off I pulled the rotors and turned them with the 4 inch angle grinder. The brakes worked perfect during the test drive. I believe the failed pads had been forced into the holder and hadn't been retracting, he had to actually pry them out. I know turning brake rotor with a grinder is not an accepted practice, I just grind off the outside lip and the inter rust ring and float the brake surface.

Super H Mike · Mar 4, 2022

Rust is a big problem with disc brakes. I use a hand held sandblaster to remove the rust without removing too much metal . I also put anti seize or brake lube under the clips and at all contact points to slow up the rust. It is also good to clean the hub and wheel mounting surfaces to make sure they sit flat and to promote good heat transfer.

Dave BN · Mar 4, 2022

I have to do that Everytime I work on disk brakes. As Mike says, I put brake grease under the slides to help stop rust build up but it will still happen eventually. Another option is to grind down the steel backing on the new pads. That's easier but I feel it's more correct to clean up the pad holders(brackets).
Dave

Mike(NEOhio) · Mar 4, 2022

I do my own brakes and always clean the sliding parts and put some anti-seize on. Usually take the caliper brackets off to do it and clean and lube the pins.

Hobo,NC · Mar 4, 2022

In the south we are not accustom to RUST every now and again I get my hands on one with rust. It sure takes the fun out of it.

Hobo,NC · Mar 4, 2022

Brake parts are very pacific to the application of lube that is used I can tell ya for a fact anti-seize is not one of them and will make a mess out of it.

Yes I have used anti-seize when it came back it caused me grief.

The most popular lube sold every parts store has it, its a silicon purple grease made by Permatex. Its wrecked a many brake job its not rubber compatible. Its for metal to metal contact and dry's HARD. I have had pins where this was applied it was all most impossible to beat them out.

The best lube is CRC Brake Caliper Synthetic Grease 05353 its rubber safe.

I get to go behind my work maybe I was putting a wheel bearing in it are ball joints a year later. The pins were stuck WTF I cleaned and lubed them well. The issue was the lube I went to CRC and all has been good. I know what using the wrong lube will do.

Read the comments.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-nSF4cyBK9c

SVcummins · Mar 5, 2022

Actual toast ?? I knew dorf was bottom of the barrel but toast

Harold Hubbard · Mar 5, 2022

Around here,(Vermont) you need to go into a brake job prepared to replace everything but the brake pedal. The salt brine they use on the roads sticks to and penetrates every part of the vehicle, and starts it rotting immediately.

ASEguy · Mar 5, 2022

If they wore out evenly on both front, it's probably fixed. If they wore out unevenly, you may still have a problem. One side with both worn out could be a hose. Inside pad worn out is usually the piston. Outside worn out is usually the slides or the pads sticking in the brackets.

Brake Story

miangus

Well-known Member

Super H Mike

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Dave BN

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Mike(NEOhio)

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Hobo,NC

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Hobo,NC

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SVcummins

Well-known Member

Harold Hubbard

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ASEguy

Well-known Member

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