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Brissg stratton crankshaft.

L

ldj

Well-known Member
How do you get the flywheel off without mushroming the top part where pull start clutch/ratchet goes?
 
Once the recoil is removed, loosen but don't completely remove the nut from the end of the crank. Slip a pry bar under the flywheel as close to center as you can get and put some pressure against the block- there should be a bit of end play in the crank. Usually, one good, solid hammer blow to the end of the crank will release the taper from the crank. The nut will keep the flywheel from coming all the way off.
 
Take the nut assembly off, remove the washer, screw it back on until just above
the flywheel surface.

Pry up on the flywheel, no need to pry hard, just enough to lift the crankshaft
off the lower thrust surface. Strike the top of the nut sharply with an aluminum
or brass hammer, or lay a piece of brass or aluminum on top of the nut assembly,
hit it with a steel hammer.

It should pop right off.
 
The B&S flywheels I have seen have tapped holes for a puller. Drill 3 holes in a fairly rugged piece of steel, maybe tap the center one or use a nut under the piece of
steel/puller. With 3 bolts or cap screws you can make it into a puller. The two outside holes have two cap screws that go into the flywheel. the center screw screws down
against the crankshaft and pulls the flywheel. Striking the center bolt with a hammer as described helps too.
 
I don't think the guys who have answered realize that the clutch/ratchet you are speaking of is also the
retaining nut for the flywheel. The treads on the shaft are located 2or 3 inches below the end of the crankshaft.
So the crankshaft can be mushroomed from hammer blows. On the smaller engines such as the push lawn mowers have
with aluminum flywheels i can usually use 2 pry bars 180 degrees apart and pry upward and remove them. Just be
careful where you position the pry bars. On the larger engines such as the 5 hp tiller engine with the steel
flywheels they will have 2 5/16 fine threaded holes for connecting a puller to remove the flywheel. You will
need 2 long bolts to connect the puller. You can make a puller or purchase on for the job. Sometimes you may have
to strike the center bolt on the puller to pop the flywheel loose after applying torque with the puller. I would
recommend using a dead blow hammer for that. Also google can be your friend along with youtube video's to see how
this is done correctly.
 

Sometimes the puller holes are not threaded , especially in the aluminium flywheels . I found that to my dismay once , it added another half hour of fiddling to the job while I found the right sized tap and bolts .
 
Hold a 1 pound ball peen hammer against the magnets in the flywheel and directly across from that hammer tap the flywheel with another hammer.
One or two strikes usually breaks the flywheel loose from the crankshaft. Don't have to worry about damaging the crank this way.
 
A redneck will find 2 bolts to fit holes in the flywheel, drill 2 holes in a piece of metal and off comes the flywheel after you pull using bolts and smack the metal to jar it loose.
 
If you do bugger up the crank some be sure to file it so the starter spins free or it will make an awful noise when you start it.
 
I always use a chunk of brass, hold it against the crank and give it a good whack with the hammer.
 
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