pat sublett
Well-known Member
What size rod and heat do you use to weld C-perlin?
- Thread starter pat sublett
- Start date
kcm.MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- NW Minnesota
What gauge is it?
Also, depends on why you're needing to weld. For sheet metal, I prefer using a mig welder. If you're trying to make a repair though, heating up the metal enough to weld might cause a larger weak spot in the purlin, but would have to get an engineer to verify that. Just a guess on my end.
Also, depends on why you're needing to weld. For sheet metal, I prefer using a mig welder. If you're trying to make a repair though, heating up the metal enough to weld might cause a larger weak spot in the purlin, but would have to get an engineer to verify that. Just a guess on my end.
Stan in Oly, WA
Well-known Member
Pat;
kcm.MN makes a good point about the danger of weakening the metal from the heat of welding. He's also right that MIG would be preferable to stick, not to mention a lot easier to use on sheet metal. (TIG would be best, but that's a whole other story. You wouldn't even be asking about stick if you had TIG and knew how to use it.) 16 gauge is about the thinnest a reasonably skilled person can weld with stick, and it's a challenge. 14 gauge (as your purlins probably are) is more forgiving, but you won't find it a piece of cake. 3/32" 6013 at about 85 amps, moving fast, would be fairly easy, but it introduces another problem: 6013 is not intended for dynamic loads. 7014 would be better, and it's easier to run than 6010 or 7018 (6011 or 7018AC if your welder is AC only) for people who only weld occasionally. Will you have a chance to practice before you have to do the job, or is this going to be a one time only kind of deal?
Stan
kcm.MN makes a good point about the danger of weakening the metal from the heat of welding. He's also right that MIG would be preferable to stick, not to mention a lot easier to use on sheet metal. (TIG would be best, but that's a whole other story. You wouldn't even be asking about stick if you had TIG and knew how to use it.) 16 gauge is about the thinnest a reasonably skilled person can weld with stick, and it's a challenge. 14 gauge (as your purlins probably are) is more forgiving, but you won't find it a piece of cake. 3/32" 6013 at about 85 amps, moving fast, would be fairly easy, but it introduces another problem: 6013 is not intended for dynamic loads. 7014 would be better, and it's easier to run than 6010 or 7018 (6011 or 7018AC if your welder is AC only) for people who only weld occasionally. Will you have a chance to practice before you have to do the job, or is this going to be a one time only kind of deal?
Stan
pat sublett
Well-known Member
Yes, I have a MIG welder but, the lead will not reach to the top of the barn. I have welded a lot of 14ga Mexican c-purlin with 1/8 6011s at 80amp DC, but I thought there might be a better way to weld 14ga. Mexican c-purlin with 11ga. sticky primer on it. Never know when somebody has a better way
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I use a 3/32 7018 on about 90 AC amps on my 5kw portable standby generator which runs the regular Miller 130, 240 VAC stick welder. If I use the 6.5 kw portable gen. I can go to DC and get a smoother finish. The 7018 does a fine job of welding the thin steel without punch through.
kcm.MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- NW Minnesota
Duct tape! *lol*
Stan in Oly, WA
Well-known Member
I appreciate your clarification, Pat. I'm going to offer one more suggestion, then I'll stop talking about things I don't know enough about to be helpful. Have you got a piece of equipment that could lift your MIG setup high enough so that you could use it? If so, could you get it to where you need it to be? It's simple to extend the ground to just about any reasonable length---long jumper cables will work just fine---so the length of the hose is the limiting factor. Clearly you're not going to want to have to climb down and move your tractor/loader/forklift/whatever after every weld or two. In any case, I hope the job goes well for you.
Stan
Stan
Stephen Newell
Well-known Member
I wouldn't weld them. Bolts are stronger. A building expands and contracts a great deal with the weather and will wear on the welded joint. Then if for some reason the building is remodeled being able to unbolt them will make the job a lot easier.
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